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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    1,910

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Aaron,

    I think that they are only adjustable once ! The gas is let out to set a particular force. You would have to find a way to re-gass them to get a higher force.

    When I've got the bandsaw up and working I have a piece of steel to make a start on building a drop damper for it. I've also got the brass elbows and "T"s for the oil bypass system.

    Watch this space...

    ah ok that makes sence. thanks. im going to read the whole thread now.
    aaron

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Castors fitted !

    Hi Guys,

    Its been a very hectic few days here. I've now got the bandsaw stand painted and today the paint has dried hard enough to enable me to spend time fitting the castors. I had deliberately made the stand six inches higher than the original tin one, putting the cast iron base on to check fits, the working surface is at a nice comfortable hight, just a little too high to sit on though if you were using it vertically. I'd forgotten that the castors would add another four inches to the hight, so the the saw is now a foot higher than the original.

    22-09-2019-001.jpg 22-09-2019-003.jpg 22-09-2019-002.JPG
    I put the castors with the brakes on at the front, the back pair don't have any. Those wheels are 75 mm in diameter and the swivel base is just short of an inch.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    It's looking so good you won't want to use it in case it gets dirty.

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Yea looking good. Its a pitty its gunna get dirty!

    It would be nice if our machines had a self clean feature!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    I'd forgotten that the castors would add another four inches to the hight, so the the saw is now a foot higher than the original.
    Hi BaronJ,
    A lovely tidy job on the frame, I must say!

    I would rather the saw a foot higher than an inch too low. Leaning over my saw I find I have made the frame a wee bit too low and my back tells me constantly.

    Given your fine example I am now determined to remedy that defect and give my unit an upgrade.

    The thing is I use it daily and not happy with it being out of action for even a little while. Little whiles turn in into a long while,with me sometimes.

    Grahame

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Grahame,

    I some ways you are more lucky you have a working saw ! I had to rely on others to obtain and cut materials for me. OK I could have used a hacksaw and it would have taken me forever. Its very nice to be helped out in the way that I was. Then to be taken under the wing of a tutor was most gratifying.

    If you are thinking of going down a similar path and making a stand, the drawing I posted is accurate. But do check and make sure that the body of your saw is the same size as mine.

    One thing I will mention, is the square bits of tube on the top of the stand that the body bolts to, use a straight edge and set them back in line with the angle of the frame. I didn't take this into account and had to file them to allow the saw body to sit down square on the top, otherwise the body just drops onto the frame perfectly.

    I will be posting some pictures later.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I promised some pictures, here they are. This project is nowhere near finished yet, but I do want to get to the point where the machine is usable.

    Warning ! Lots of pictures.

    27-09-2019-001.jpg 27-09-2019-002.JPG 27-09-2019-003.JPG 27-09-2019-004.jpg
    General pictures of the machine fitted to the new stand, both in normal position and in the vertical use position.
    I'm glad that I had a pair of castors with brakes on them because the thing will roll away from you without any difficulty. That end flagstone is sloping towards the bins. The extra weight on that end caused it to start moving the moment I let go of it.

    27-09-2019-011.jpg 27-09-2019-010.jpg 27-09-2019-009.jpg
    This is the 1Hp Brooks motor that it came with. The pulley on the motor is the one that was on it when I got the machine, the black one is the new one that I bought because the one that was on there had the large flange with a piece broken off. You can see the new motor mounting plate that I made. I used a piece of 3 mm thick steel plate drilled and threaded M8 to suit the motor mounting foot. I also made a pair of hinge brackets to suit the original hinge pin. You can't see, but I drilled and threaded a grub screw in each end and made a spacer to set the mounting plate in the middle of the uprights. I got a new drive belt as well but its a tiny bit long. I could move the motor a little but its OK for the time being. There is no belt guard, so that is another job to do. It doesn't stop the machine from being used though.


    27-09-2019-006.jpg 27-09-2019-005.jpg
    Here you can see the new bearings that I fitted to replace the original ones. Two of which were sized up and the rest stiff to turn. One had a groove in it from the back of the blade. In the second picture you can see a white nylon 60, plastic spacer that I made to prevent the arm from wandering from side to side in use. A spacer is shown fitting here on the parts list, but £3.00p plus postage is a bit much for one.

    27-09-2019-008.jpg
    This is the other new part that I bought. This bracket/pivot arm was broken when I got the machine and someone had made a poor job of trying to repair it. The replacement, supposedly from another brand of bandsaw fits perfectly. I also intend to make and fit a hydraulic damper to this bracket to control the cutting arm weight when cutting material.

    27-09-2019-007.jpg 27-09-2019-012.jpg
    These last two pictures show the modifications that I have already made to the vise in order to be able to clamp and support small pieces of material whilst cutting. As you can see I've taken advice to replace the original hex head bolts with Allen cap screws in the blade support brackets. I've yet to set to and adjust them in order to ensure that the cut is square. At the moment I've just nipped the screws up to hold them, but they do seem to want to fit into a particular spot, twisting the blade as you tighten them.

    So this is as far as I've gotten ! I've a number of other things that I want to do with this saw before I can call it finished. But the important thing is that its almost usable.

    Thanks for all the comments and good advice given to me.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Setting up & Test cut.

    Hi Guys,

    I've managed to do all sorts of things today, even though the weather has been atrocious. Lots of flooding close by, but we have escaped anything serious. The flood plain around the river has taken the brunt of it.

    03-10-2019-003.JPG 03-10-2019-004.JPG
    One of the things that I've had to make was a new back panel for the belt guard. I managed to rescue the hinge from the old broken one and made a replacement from hardboard. All the areas with red marker are going to be cut off. I'm going to get hold of a piece of tin plate from the scrap yard next time I go there and use this as a template.

    One of the hardest bits to set up was the metal tab depressing the off button at the end of the cut. It really needs to hit the switch a touch later as it is now.

    03-10-2019-005.jpg 03-10-2019-006.JPG
    I made my first cut with the bandsaw this evening. I used a piece of 20 mm thick steel plate and cut a 60 mm wide chunk of the end. You can see from the pencil line how square the cut actually was. I'd forgotten to square up the vise ! However the cut through the thickness was less than a 1/4 mm out of square as can be seen in the second picture.

    A question ! How much weight or pressure should be needed on the arm ? The reason that I ask is that with the weight of the motor and the distance that it is behind the hinge, is that there doesn't seem to be a lot of down force on the arm. Sure it cut very quickly and didn't struggle at all. At one point I stopped supporting the arm because it seemed to be rubbing more than cutting.

    I'm going to get the spring balance out tomorrow and see what the down force really is.

    That is all for now. Thanks for following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Hi BaronJ

    I am happy for you that you dodged the bullet on the flooding. Been there and done that and it is gut wrenching for any body who was been through the ordeal.

    The green paint. What is the colour name and paint brand used on your bandsaw, please?

    The color, I think! is apple green and would love to buy some and repaint my tired and scruffy machines.The atmosphere here in rust city takes a toll on most metals painted or not.

    My equipment could well do with a tidy up.

    Knowing you, I surmise you would have run in the new blade?

    Lots of folk, including yours truly, sometimes forget that a new blade should be run in.

    For those of us who didn't know, here is some good info from Starret bandsaw blade division.

    https://www.starrett.com/docs/saw-re...s.pdf?sfvrsn=2

    Hope this helps someone.

    Grahame

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Grahame,

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Hi BaronJ

    I am happy for you that you dodged the bullet on the flooding. Been there and done that and it is gut wrenching for any body who was been through the ordeal.
    The nearest that the water got to us was about 1/4 mile away. The most alarming part was the water running down the street, our kerb hight is about four inches, and the water was almost up to the top. We have a dropped kerb and the water started to come in to the front yard. Fortunately it subsided almost as quickly as it started. So no damage.

    The green paint. What is the colour name and paint brand used on your bandsaw, please?


    The colour, I think! is apple green and would love to buy some and repaint my tired and scruffy machines.The atmosphere here in rust city takes a toll on most metals painted or not.

    My equipment could well do with a tidy up.
    The paint colour was a green one from Aldi and was chosen because it was the nearest to the Myford green as used on the lathe and the same colour is used on the mill. Its a little lighter in hue. Surprisingly it was made by a paint company here in the UK, "Produced for Aldi" other than that there is no shade number. I originally thought that it was acrylic paint but it isn't, its good old oil based. Unfortunately it is no longer available.

    Knowing you, I surmise you would have run in the new blade?

    Lots of folk, including yours truly, sometimes forget that a new blade should be run in.

    For those of us who didn't know, here is some good info from Starret bandsaw blade division.

    https://www.starrett.com/docs/saw-re...s.pdf?sfvrsn=2

    Hope this helps someone.

    Grahame
    I've seen that document ! But nowhere does it mention how much pressure or down force should be used. Yes I did run the bandsaw on its slowest speed and initially kept the weight light by supporting the arm. The blade cut easily without any strain, so towards the end of the cut I allowed the full weight of the arm to press down on the work.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    But nowhere does it mention how much pressure or down force should be used.
    Hi John, I set my cylinder to slow and control the cutting speed through thin material and leave it at that setting for all cutting.
    Then it feeds at it's own rate as it cuts thicker material and the cylinder probably does nothing as the cutting is a lot slower than
    the feed rate that the cylinder is set at.

    cheers, shed

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi John, Guys,

    Thanks for that information John. Very useful guide.

    I have a Salter force gauge so I took some time to read the instructions on how to use it. Its been in its box unused since I bought it in 1980, and I've never actually needed to use it. I measured the weight of the arm down force this morning at 80 newtons, about 18 lb. Surprising how much 18 lb weight is.

    Anyway I've used the bandsaw to cut a chunk of 20 mm thick plate, 60 mm square to make one of the brackets for the drop damper. After cutting there is about 20 thou out of square and the cut is dead on vertical as near as a set square shows. So at this moment I'm very satisfied with it.

    Grahame: A bit more information about the paint.
    Leyland Emerald Green.
    Manufactured by, PPG Architectural Coatings.
    Hudersfield road, Batley,
    West Yorkshire, WF17 9XA. UK.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Progressing well Baron,

    WRT to down force and feed rate, I think it's one of those things that you get to know after a few cuts. I use an M42 bimetal blade with a 10/14 multipitch and run it at about half the recommended speed. The feed rate I adjust purely by feel and sound.

    When the blades new it will put up with unrealistic feed rates a down pressure without much protest but as it wears and the chip removal becomes less, it becomes more obvious that you need to ease up a bit on the feed rate.

    So in order r to not prematurely wear th e blade, keep feed rates modest (since we are not in production it's no hurry) but you want to make sure it's cutting and not just scratching the surface also.

    Also as the blade wears you will hear more protest from the motor with a too heavy feed rate.

    Not really any different to lathe or milling. It's all in the vibe, mabo etc.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    After cutting there is about 20 thou out of square and the cut is dead on vertical as near as a set square shows. So at this moment I'm very satisfied with it.

    Grahame: A bit more information about the paint.
    Leyland Emerald Green.
    Manufactured by, PPG Architectural Coatings.
    Hudersfield road, Batley,
    West Yorkshire, WF17 9XA. UK.

    Hi BaronJ

    Thanks you taking time to chase up the paint info.

    A little improvement for the out of square for the back jaw.

    Normally that back jaw remains fixed but can be swiveled through an arc for angled cuts.

    Sometimes the jaw can get hung up on a piece of rough casting in the arc when returned to home position.

    The best fix, shown to us by Nearnexus, Rob from Adelaide was to mount a 16mm square block by drilling and tapping it to the base, behind the return to 0 degree square position.

    The block is also provided with a 6mm horizontal drilled and tapped hole to fit a screw and lock nut that bears against the back side of the back jaw.

    When set up and adjusted, ( just for the first time ) it removes the need to constantly re set the jaw after using it on an angled cut. The back jaw can then return to the exactly the same spot after each time is has to be moved and then be relied upon on to be square.

    If a pic is needed I can post one. Its Saturday morning and there are jobs to do and I need to go and do them.

    Grahame

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Test Cutting.

    Good Morning Grahame, Guys,

    Thank you for your description of the vise stop ! Yes I understand perfectly what you mean. I hadn't realised just how difficult it was to set up. There is a clamp bolt through the base opposite the hinge bolt, I originally used a set square to set the vise back plate, but didn't realise that the arm is not truly square to the base. So I used a 1 2 3 block against the blade to readjust the vise. Gentle tapping with a plastic faced brass hammer got me to where it is now. I also used the 1 2 3 block flat edge to guide me twisting the blade guides so that the blade was as vertical as I could get it. I think that this is the best that I'm going to get for now. I need to get the damper made.

    04-10-2019-006.jpg
    This is the 60 mm square block that I cut in half. In the picture one half is rotated with respect to the other so you can see the slight out of square of the cut. That lip is just over 0.3 mm. About 12 or 13 thou. This block is one of the brackets for the damper. More on this later.

    That info on the paint came from chasing up the name "LeyLand Paint" on the net. PPG are still there, though I've never visited them.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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