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  1. #16
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    The other thing the OP hasn't specified his 16 mm tolerance, is 0.1, or 0.01 or 0.001 mm?

    I haven't found a 16 mm anything that drills a 16.00 mm hole, and it usually ends up slightly oversize.
    The only way I seem to be able to get good tolerances is with a boring bar or a reamer.

  2. #17
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    Hi Peoples,

    Thanx for all the helpful advice. I didn't realise just how complex it is to drill accurate holes.

    I went into Equipment Sales today (I live in the bush) and looked at the Annular cutters. Really impressive .. but expensive. I presume you have to sharpen them, but how? The salesman didn't know. Surely you don't just throw them away.

    So I decided on a 16mm Blacksmith Drill (tapered shank) and 5mm pilot hole. They're relatively cheap. Although at 200mm long I hope they fit high enough in the turret to clear the bed (hehee)

    But I also think I'll buy a 16mm slot-drill just to compare the accuracy and the smoothness of the face cut.

    And thanx for the pic of the angle plate. I may even have to buy some clamps. merde,


  3. #18
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    Hi Danny,

    You may have to remove the draw bar to fit an MT3 taper drill in the spindle ! I have to on my mill, but there is a slot for a removal wedge, make sure that you have a wedge tool to remove the drill.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #19
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    Is this machine so weak you have to drill a pilot hole? My way would be to get an old 15mm/15.5mm drill that's only about 3" long & drill both sides in one setting. No centre drill required with the short drill although the web thickness needs modifying. Do the 100 holes then ream them after that. No need to clamp.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mutawintji View Post

    I presume you have to sharpen them, but how? The salesman didn't know. Surely you don't just throw them away.
    I'm guessing it could be sharpened with a tool & cutter grinder.
    But I don't think this is often done now, as a new tool is often cheaper than paying for the time.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Danny,

    You may have to remove the draw bar to fit an MT3 taper drill in the spindle ! I have to on my mill, but there is a slot for a removal wedge, make sure that you have a wedge tool to remove the drill.
    Will do. I'm gunna go into Brisbane, Hare & Forbes. I'll take the picture of my mill and get them to read your post and give me what I need (500km round trip for me)

    Thanx

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snapey View Post
    Is this machine so weak you have to drill a pilot hole? My way would be to get an old 15mm/15.5mm drill that's only about 3" long & drill both sides in one setting. No centre drill required with the short drill although the web thickness needs modifying. Do the 100 holes then ream them after that. No need to clamp.
    The RHS (50mm) is 4mm wall thickness.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    I'm guessing it could be sharpened with a tool & cutter grinder.
    But I don't think this is often done now, as a new tool is often cheaper than paying for the time.
    That's why the shank drill is best for me, at least I can sharpen it.

    You'd have to be a jeweller to sharpen an annular cutter ... heheee.

  9. #24
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    These are the first 6 of the 400mm lengths (3 holes right through and 3 from the side for the set screws.)

    There are 700mmm lengths with 6 holes as well

    9FBB2FCF-B118-47F3-8AC8-BDA3C93AC7F3.jpg

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mutawintji View Post
    The RHS (50mm) is 4mm wall thickness.
    I don't know what your point is with the material thickness. It wouldn't matter if it was 1.6mm thick or solid you only have to drill then ream. Save yourself a trip to Brisbane because H & F will tell you the same thing I did.

    In my post I said to modify the web. I tried to photograph my 15.5mm drill but couldn't get the detail so the following picture is one of my 1 1/2" drills showing how I reduce the web size. It's a simple touch on the corner of your grinding wheel. Because of that web reduction I use that drill most times without a pilot so you certainly don't need one with a 15.5mm or 39/64" drill.

    The reason I said a short drill is a new one has more tendency to wander if you don't use a centre drill but the shorter the drill the thicker the web ... hence the modification and no need for a centre drill. Do the drilling with the RHS clamped or in a vice but you don't need to contain for it reaming. Use a 2MT drill too, not a turned down shank job. DSCN0581.jpg

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snapey View Post

    In my post I said to modify the web. I tried to photograph my 15.5mm drill but couldn't get the detail so the following picture is one of my 1 1/2" drills showing how I reduce the web size. It's a simple touch on the corner of your grinding wheel.
    Do you mean you narrowed the contact surface of the drill point?

    If you have a before and after shot that would be good. I still have to go H&F, my biggest drill is 13mm

    Ta

  12. #27
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    Look up this site & go to web thinning. Drill Terminology and Cutting Characteristics | MITSUBISHI MATERIALS CORPORATION

    In 50+ years as a toolmaker I've never heard of a reduced shank drill called a blacksmiths drill. You learn something every day. If you can get one in short series it will be OK but in a collet & not a chuck. Morse taper would be better & the shorter the better because you don't want to be mucking around with centre drills. A 15.5mm high speed steel from H & F will only cost you $22 but will be too long so I'd shorten it & sharpen it like the above. Looks like H & F don't sell machine reamers so find an engineers supply place. Don't use an adjustable reamer.

    It's easy for me to tell you what to do but from what you say you aren't very experienced, so it might be worth your while to find an engineering workshop in Brisbane and ask if they could cut down and sharpen a drill for you with the reduced web. Maybe ask at H & F if the know such a place & could they ring ahead.

  13. #28
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    OK ... I understand that. By tapered-shank drill I meant Morse-Taper, I think.

    I also have a full set of collets. Would it be just as good to buy a straight shaft 16mm drill (no taper) and cut it shorter and use it in the 16mm collet?

    I'll look up how to thin the web.

    Ta

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mutawintji View Post
    OK ... I understand that. By tapered-shank drill I meant Morse-Taper, I think.

    I also have a full set of collets. Would it be just as good to buy a straight shaft 16mm drill (no taper) and cut it shorter and use it in the 16mm collet?



    Ta
    Your choice whether you use a Morse taper or reduced shank drill but if you need an accurate 16.0 diameter hole you'll have to ream it after drilling a 15.5 or 39/64" hole. A badly sharpened 16mm drill could drill 0.5mm oversize and even a perfectly machine sharpened one will be a couple of thou over. If you go with a reduced shank (12.7mm) you can then use it in your hand drill when this job is finished.

  15. #30
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snapey View Post
    Your choice whether you use a Morse taper or reduced shank drill but if you need an accurate 16.0 diameter hole you'll have to ream it after drilling a 15.5 or 39/64" hole. A badly sharpened 16mm drill could drill 0.5mm oversize and even a perfectly machine sharpened one will be a couple of thou over. If you go with a reduced shank (12.7mm) you can then use it in your hand drill when this job is finished.
    This was my point a few pages back.

    Before the OP does drilling he needs to measure the 16 mm rod in a number of places as not all 16 mm rod is 16.00 mm and neither is it all uniform, and then we need to know the tightness of fit required.

    Reaming from 15.5 to 16 mm is hard work given you have so many to do.
    In these cases I have used a 5/8" (15.875mm) drill which makes reaming the last 0.125mm a LOT easier.
    BUT we have to know the bar size and fit required.
    Then you must test the 5/8" drill as it may still make a hole that exceeds the spec you need for the rod.

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