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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Should he have a priest on site when doing this Bob? Backyard Phosphating

    Bob,
    Does your concrete floor have polythene underneath? If not, that would be where the moisture is coming from. Melbourne is considerably more moist than Perth and I get almost no corrosion on my tools and very little on my steel stock. You’ve got something going on there.
    Yes Chris, there is a polythene DPM under the concrete. The absence of insulation, open eaves and being located not more than a couple of hundred metres from the Baigup Wetlands along with the Swan River are probably the major contributors to my corrosion problems.

    Capture.JPG

  2. #32
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    Yeah, that large body of water might have something to do with it. Backyard Phosphating
    Chris

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I did a distance measurement on google earth and it's 300 odd meters difference, 700 for me and 400 for you. The other thing that might make a difference is the size of the land blocks. Where we are the small blocks means of the land is covered by roads and buildings whereas in your area with the bigger blocks there's more land to soak up and then evap water.
    To the Swan Bob. That swamp called the Baigup Wetlands is much closer. I would never have thought about a large block size having an adverse effect on the shed's contents. I just mentioned this to my wife and she said we aren't downsizing and that I can put up with the rust!!

  4. #34
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    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    A question for Bob.

    What would be the best way of neutralising the phosphoric acid to prevent continuing darkening of the metal?

    Bob.
    When I did a short course of spray painting, we'd give the panelwork a treatment of phosphoric acid, then rinse it off with plain water afterwards. Immediately after rinsing we would dry away the water with compressed air.

    Trainer got us to leave the first piece bare metal until we returned a week later, to see how it kept it all from rusting. The only piece that had any rust on it was one that someone had put their bare hand on afterwards, so there was a nice mildly rusty print on that one

  5. #35
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by LordBug View Post
    When I did a short course of spray painting, we'd give the panelwork a treatment of phosphoric acid, then rinse it off with plain water afterwards. Immediately after rinsing we would dry away the water with compressed air.
    My experience is that water rinsed phosphoric acid treated steel surfaces will rust faster than if the PA is just blown off with a compressor.

  6. #36
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    LH photos is Original, Mid photo is after one week and RH photo is after two weeks - all outside under cover
    combo123.JPG

    The smaller left most pieces which is raw sanded steel is now clearly rusting(closeup below)
    The second leftmost piece (Sanded back to bare steel and then PAed) has now got a lots of very small rust spots on it (see also below)
    The other two were not sanded back so were already rusty - PAed for 10 minutes - developing yet more rust.
    week2closeup.JPG

  7. #37
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    Thank you for the progress report Bob.

    My 1214 test bar shows only minor signs of deterioration. Not the orange coating I was expecting after a cold and wet week.

    IMG_20190727_122444532.jpg

    Michael suggested that I might PA the boring bars he made for me. So I just did.

    IMG_20190727_133103684.jpg IMG_20190727_141010717.jpg

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