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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default New Visby compound slide disassembly advice

    Hi Everyone,

    I am wanting to disassemble the compound slide and give it a good clean because it barely moves. I removed it from the cross slide and have been soaking it in penetrene.

    The total range of travel available is less than 10mm. There are a couple of issues immediately apparent. Firstly, there is a spring loaded poppet that is designed to allow registration of the tool post at 90 degree intervals. The poppet has compressed and is seized and it appears that the boss that it mounts into has migrated downwards and thus impedes the operation of the compound. Is this just pressed into place with an interference fit? Can I just drive it back to flush? Ideally I would like to remove the boss and retaining pin and free up the poppet.

    Secondly, I have removed one of the gib screws but the screw at the wide end is bent and looks like it has sheared at some point. Also is it normal for machines manufactured in the 40's to have gibs that protrude past flush?

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Flo
    20190526_201350R.jpg20190526_200251R.jpg20190527_200715R.jpg20190527_200543R.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi Flo, I'd undo the gib screw/bolts and then see if it'll move any better, I think a lot of the problem is that the gib is rusted in place. If they're already damaged, you're going to replace them anyway, so it won't matter. They should have a locknnut to hold the screw in place.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    I'm not personally familiar with Visby lathes, just lathes in general, so I could be wrong but you look to have a couple of problems there. One is that the screw has lost its head, but the other is that the gib should have a protrusion (or two) that fits between the 'two heads' of the screw, so that as you wind the screw in and out, the gib moves. (the other common build is a screw at each end of the gib to adjust position. There should still be something for the screw to push against)

    Some people have built damaged gibs like that up with brazing rod or Si Bronze. Others have put in a spring pin or similar. Not sure why there is a piece of shim in there either - could be that the gib is generally worn, in which case making a new gib may be on the cards. The reason that the current gib is protruding is probably the shim - without it, the gib is too short. You might have to play with shim sizes if you decide to leave that gib in place to get it into a more reasonable position.

    Welcome to the rabbit hole.

    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post

    Welcome to the rabbit hole.

    Michael
    Ha ha ha ha...... so true.

    Last autumn I couldn't stand my Monarch compound any longer. That led to re-scraping its ways, making a new gib, milling and re-scraping the rotating surfaces between the compound and cross slide plus a q&d re-scrape of the cross slide flat ways. I quit at that point because I wasn't ready to tackle a full-on re-scrape of the saddle and cross slide ways.

    It's vastly improved but quite a bit of time went down the rabbit hole.....

    PDW

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Hahaha!! Yeah I am well and truly in the rabbit hole. The gib appears to have the cutout that you mentioned Michael but the screw head appears to have shared and the remainder looks bent.. I think I'll end up having to drill it out and make a new one..

    I don't have a mill so making a new gib will be problematic.

    In terms of the tool post poppet boss - are they just an interference fit? Can I remove it (for repair) or at least make it flush without causing any other issues?

    Flo

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    My old macson had the same spring plunger and it was just an interference fit, should move with a swift wack no problem

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    My old macson had the same spring plunger and it was just an interference fit, should move with a swift wack no problem

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk
    Thanks for that caskwarrior.. I'll give it a whack and see how I go..

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    I had to Loctite mine in to prevent it rising, it comes from trying to lock the turret at anything other that a 90degree increment.



    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Does it make much difference if it just remains flush so that it doesn't register the turret in the 90 degree position? In other words should I worry about repairing it?

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
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    1,522

    Default

    I found it pretty helpful, but totally up to you, it was kind of handy to have a parting tool on one side of the turret so it was always registered without you having to line it up every time.

    This system makes it a lot harder to fit a qctp when the time comes as the hold down bolt on mine was integral to the compound.

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    I found it pretty helpful, but totally up to you, it was kind of handy to have a parting tool on one side of the turret so it was always registered without you having to line it up every time.

    This system makes it a lot harder to fit a qctp when the time comes as the hold down bolt on mine was integral to the compound.
    Well I managed to get it out and disassembled. I gave it a bit of a clean up and lubricated it and the plunger is operational again. I haven't reinstalled as yet though.

    As for the tool post retaining bolt - on my lathe the bolt protrudes all the way through the top slide and is fixed in place on the underside of the top slide with a machine screw. I guess if I want to fit a QCTP and the standard bolt doesn't work it probably wouldn't be too hard to fabricate something to fit.

    I also was able to remove the gib by removing the damaged adjustment screw. I had to drill the screw and use an easy-out (screw extractor) to remove it as the drive portion of the screw was missing. The gib is of the type that is notched at the big end. Once I removed the gib I was able to separate the compound into its various parts. The dovetails don't look too bad and I can still see evidence of the scraping. I'm not sure why there was a shim installed but I guess I'll find out when I reassemble it. I'll need to give everything a good rub with a stone to remove the burrs and corrosion pitting high spots.

    The compound spindle nut was a bit tight but I exercised it numerous times with lubricant and whilst it's not perfectly smooth there is a definite improvement.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default

    As an aside, I had the original toolpost from my step father's lathe left over after I fitted a QCTP to it and thought I'd do a side-by-side comparison with the toolpost from my 'new' lathe.. only a slight difference..

    20190529_193325.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Tool post sounds similar to what a on my Takisawa lathe. Toolpost pivot bolt all the way through the compound slide, an interference fit but also secured by a grub screw from the bottom. It was drilled and tapped on the outer edge of the pivot post flange so one side of the grub screw is threaded in the top slide and the other half in the post.
    I've measured up the topslide hole so I can make a new pivot holt to suit the QCTP I've had for a while. Just haven't made it yet!
    Hers a couple of shots of the original.





    Steve

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rosebery/Eastlakes
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Yes that's pretty much the same setup on this lathe as well Steve.. I haven't removed the pivot bolt but I can if I want to..

    20190529_184404R.jpg

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