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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
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    65
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    1,673

    Default Another "how do I do this" - tool grinder table

    Gday All.
    I have a tool grinder (Not a T&C) which I recently made a jig for sharpening chisels for. The tool grinder is a Chinese one that I inherited from my Dad some time ago.
    The table can be angled in relation to the face of the wheel, and it can also be moved on the "protractor brackets" (for want of another name).
    What I am trying to work out is how I can set the table up (easily repeatable) so the guide slot in the table is parallel to a horizontal line though the centre of the wheel. The table is at about 30 deg from vertical.

    grind 001.jpg grind 003.jpg

    In the first pic I have set the table at a sever angle to show how much movement I have.
    I didn't think it would matter that much but I have discovered that it does with my grinding jig
    As just about everything is rough cast I cant find a suitable datum. The answer is probably staring me in the face but I cant see it.
    So any suggestions?

    thanks
    Peter

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,561

    Default

    Can you use a square against the face of the wheel? Even if the table was slightly off square because the wheel was lumpy, a pass with a dressing diamond in a holder along the groove should result in a surface that is true, and even if slightly conical, should still give you something to square against.

    Michael

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    5,959

    Default

    Hi Peter, I'd first determine if the pivoting points are on the same plane. You could check this by measuring from the table up, and then from possibly the point where the motor casing is bolted to the frame, so you get your height and fore and aft measurements.
    I'd also check the "protractor brackets" mounting location under the table, measure from the guide to the sharp edge to ensure that they are paralel, you could then use the sharp edge as a datum point. You might have to file (machine) the sharp edge to a crisp 90 degree to adjust any discrepancies, so that you can then measure the bolt positions underneath.
    I'd also check that the protractor brackets are similar.
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
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    65
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    1,673

    Default

    Michael & Kryn
    I'll have to think about your suggestions a bit more. Brain is not working tonight.

    peter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
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    Default

    Just straining my grey matter a bit more,
    I suppose the guide in the table really has to be at 90 deg to the flat faces on the sides of the grinder that the "protractors" bolt to. Providing they are parallel.
    How does that sound?
    So I should be looking at a method for checking if guide is at 90 deg.

    I might set the table up on the mill, dial it in to the guide and then take a clean/truing cut out of the 3 sides of the cutout that goes around the wheel. I then might be able to use a square to line up with the face of the wheel. Actually thinking about it a bit more I might be able to make a square that fits into the guide to allow me to set up to the face of the wheel as you suggested Michael.
    Hmmmm.
    That's far too much thinking for a Sunday night.
    So its goodnight from him
    peter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    505

    Default

    The butcher in me says - set it up as desired, then drill and ream the adjusting surfaces on each side to locate with a small taper pin so you can easily repeat that that position again.
    Or do I misunderstand the adjustment, or requirement?
    Cheers,
    Bill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
    Age
    65
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WCD View Post
    The butcher in me says - set it up as desired, then drill and ream the adjusting surfaces on each side to locate with a small taper pin so you can easily repeat that that position again.
    Or do I misunderstand the adjustment, or requirement?
    Cheers,
    Bill
    Bill. Using a taper pin is a good idea. I'll keep that in mind.
    I wont get a chance to have a look at this again until the weekend at least.
    I probably wont use the grinding jig much now though. I've managed to grind all the nail inflicted dibets out of my chisels - with a final finish using the honing guide but I'd still like to be able to set it up easily. I'll probably end up with some chisels to be ground that belong to other people.
    Thanks

    Peter

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    201

    Default

    I'd just get one of those magnetic spirit levels and attach it to the bottom edge of the table, then slide the table until it's level and bolt it down.

    Graham.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbikerider View Post
    I'd just get one of those magnetic spirit levels and attach it to the bottom edge of the table, then slide the table until it's level and bolt it down.

    Graham.
    Geez - I hadn't even thought of that. I'll give that a go. I'll check the "levelness" of the bench first (its mobile) and then set the grinder to match. That might be the answer. I did say the answer is probably staring me in the face but I couldn't see it.

    thanks
    Peter

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