Thread: Our METALWORK sheds -Ongoing deeds and tales of life in the shed.

Right, here it is , talk is over,now lets get moving and post and we will see how popular it is as a subject. If you are saying what the hell? at this moment-see off Topic sub Forum,

Post your old shed, your new shed,questions about your potential shed, what you did there or what what you should have done there.

If it pertains to the METALWORK shed and related doings:

It goes in this thread.

Lets make it happen.

No! I am not posting any pics.My shed is a mess at the moment.I could post a pic of a pigsty and you could not tell the difference - anyway no camera of any sort working at the moment.

Grahame

I actually need shed advice, just moved into my first home, going to be here a while and I want to make the best of it. I don't have much space, it will be a long two car garage essentially (I have some nice large trees I don't want to lose behind it)

I would like a well insulated building that self regulates temperature, I'm coastal in Melbourne so condensation isn't an issue but I want to be able to work in the heat. Does anyone have a non steel clad workshop that they like.

I basically want a building I don't have to air condition but is still workable in the heat any ideas?

I also need to plan my concrete foundation for future machines, like a HBM. Does anyone have footing advice?

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Originally Posted by caskwarrior

I also need to plan my concrete foundation for future machines, like a HBM. Does anyone have footing advice?

Don't overthink it. I've got a Kearns OA HBM sitting on a 100m thick slab with F72 (or 82) mesh in it. No problem.

Ditto 2.6 tonne Monarch lathe. And a 2+ tonne planer.

Thing to watch - make sure the substrate is as good as possible before pouring the slab. I backfilled with a mix of damp clay & sand dug out of a pit on my place, it dries to a literal rock consistency, using a vibrating heavy roller (the type you sit on & drive). The ground was hard enough that the fully laden tip truck was barely making an impression as the next load went on.

Last time I checked the baby HBM, the Kearns S type, it was still dead nuts 0-0 level after a few years. Might be interesting to check the big HBM now that 7.5 tonnes of boat are off of that slab. But I'm pretty confident nothing has moved.

As for cladding I use metal (Colorbond) for speed, economy and lack of maintenance. Currently I'm insulating & lining more space with 12mm Bunnings plywood to 1.2m and pegboard above that, painted white. I do get condensation but only for a few days a year when we get a multi-day cold snap followed by a bounce back warm spell. One of these days I'm going to put in a ceiling over some of the space, heavily insulated, and add a reverse cycle air conditioner set to de-humidify. That'll fix the issue permanently.

PDW

Caskwarrior the roof of your workshop is the biggest influence of heat loss/gain, if i was to build a small workshop that needed climate control I would use that preinsulated trim deck stuff on the roof... and even on the walls.
Its self supporting over a good span, so will need little to no frame work other than the walls

FI use an old garage 4.5 x 8.
Open always at the roller door with 2 windows always open and 2 doors also open.
I also have an additional area 4x4.5 that hold my reamers, exchange parts , measuring tools heating gear,hand tools some bar stock and the beer fridge.
I am in Western Sydney so don't worry about moisture to any great extent, I sometimes get a little surface rust on items but nothing that usage of the tool does not remove.
The garage is timber framed and lined, it has a metal roof about 2.6 to the eaves, maybe a bit lower.
I very rarely start before 8am and finish when I feel like it or if the beer fridge dictates it requires more attention than the machines, I don't normally work after 5pm unless the job is urgent but generally the beer fridge knows when to stop.
Beer fridge is always looking out for my best interest.

Originally Posted by caskwarrior

I'm coastal in Melbourne so condensation isn't an issue but I want to be able to work in the heat. Does anyone have a non steel clad workshop that they like.

I basically want a building I don't have to air condition but is still workable in the heat any ideas?

I'm also in coastal Melbourne. My workshop has bessa block walls and a colorbond roof. I have a large industrial wall mounted fan for summer and a flue-less natural gas heater for winter. The fan copes with most hot days. On really hot days I just give it away and go inside to the aircon. The heater gets far more use than the fan. It is Melbourne!

Thanks everyone, I was also thinking about a jungle roof like a land rover as well as insulation. Do those older whirlygig roof vents do much?

I'll also be close to the neighbours, and I'm my neck of the woods I need sound insulation to keep the infra red heat of the grow lamps and bubbling of the hydroponics pumps out.

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Originally Posted by caskwarrior

Thanks everyone, I was also thinking about a jungle roof like a land rover as well as insulation. Do those older whirlygig roof vents do much?

They don't do that much when there's little or no wind. You need to allow for about twice as many as they recommend to make any sort of difference. Instead I recommend using forced ventilation so then you can have full benefit of exhausting welding/solvent fumes and other dusts.

I'll also be close to the neighbours, and I'm my neck of the woods I need sound insulation to keep the infra red heat of the grow lamps and bubbling of the hydroponics pumps out.

Don't laugh too loud, some of the most effective, quietest, energy efficient, and best priced ventilation fans around are those used by the hydroponics people. If you go for 1-2 of these I suggest the impeller based types and not the axial blade type.

Caskwarrior,

If you are in coastal Melbourne, do you have a prevailing breeze direction? I ask, as I was dumb enough to site my roller door openings into the prevailing breeze when I built my shed.

The same salt laden breeze that picks up coal dust from the adjacent coal terminal.

We have hard breezes 10-20 knots for 300 days a year on average.
My tools and equipment suffer accordingly.

I know nothing of Melbourne's winds, but you may wish to to look at tools and equipment with a view to protecting them from rust.

A lot of my hand tools which were wall hung are now in tool boxes and drawers.

Something to think about.

Grahame

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

I know nothing of Melbourne's winds,

They blow from all directions. Every day.

The mistakes I made with my shed, it's 9.5m X 6.5m, nowhere big enough. The silver paper insulation they recommended is not good enough, buy the best you can for summer and winter.
My 2 whirlybirds work a treat even when there is no wind due to natural convection.
The best thing I did was install a swingarm crane with electric chain hoist.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Originally Posted by Old Croc

The mistakes I made with my shed, it's 9.5m X 6.5m, nowhere big enough. The silver paper insulation they recommended is not good enough, buy the best you can for summer and winter.
My 2 whirlybirds work a treat even when there is no wind due to natural convection.
The best thing I did was install a swingarm crane with electric chain hoist.
Rgds,
Crocy.

I posted my jib crane up some years ago, can we have pictures of yours.
I'm at the the stage to make a new job crane for the new garage with a 3.5m length and the same electric 500kg hoist. I just can't lift the 10inch rotary table, adapter plate and 10 inch chuck into the mill.
I would have loved a over head crane, but a staircase gets in the way as my garage in under the house in a split level now.

Originally Posted by Harry72

Caskwarrior the roof of your workshop is the biggest influence of heat loss/gain, if i was to build a small workshop that needed climate control I would use that preinsulated trim deck stuff on the roof... and even on the walls.
Its self supporting over a good span, so will need little to no frame work other than the walls

I agree that the roof is significant for heat gain/loss, one suggestion I would make is to have your walls as tall as practical, to get the maximum space between you and the roof. That way heat buildup from the roof into the working space reduces. I'm 6'2" tall, and have been in sheds with 7' walls and heat buildup can be a pain before midday on a mid 20's day. Much less of an issue with a 9' wall height, if you can get away with it.

I found that whirly gigs in the roof of my last American Barn and Aircell roof insulation helped keep things under control in temps into the 40's until about 5pm in summer, when roller doors ended up in direct sun for a few hours, then the front bay became fairly unusable due to heat radiation from the roller doors. They are probably the toughest things to insulate in a metal clad shed, purely because the need to be free to roll up and down, so don't tolerate any form of bulk insulation. New barn to be built soon will have insulated sectional panel doors to try and alleviate this issue.

If you're wanting to use some polycarbonate sheeting in the roof for natural light try to avoid it being westerly facing, and look into the opaque stuff with the metallic content. Makes a huge reduction in heat transfer compared to just clear or tinted stuff.
Some form of radiant
heater where you are working is much more effective than trying to heat the whole workshop.

If it's only single garage width some form of insulated ceiling would be the best way to keep out the heat from above. Used freezer panels might be an economic insulation option.

Steve

lets get some pics going, he's mine, was told its 7x10, but most likely 6x9.. to be honest I've never actually measured it haha i had it set up half decent with a good work area, lathe, drill press, workbench and my welding machines. my cars in there and then also a space for storage
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recently had it rented out for a television commercial, the new XXXX state of origin commercial haha they basically stripped it bare to dress it up, long story short they liked my shed and chose it then decided they wanted a full mancave.


this is how it sits now, im thinking of resheeting the walls and throwing some paint around so it looks nice and clean, maybe run the rusty old core around the bottom for about 1500mm height and then ply the rest up to the roof, then paint it a medium shade of grey. then i can screw or staple things to the walls with ease

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what do yas think?