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  1. #151
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    The boring bar doesn't need to be HSS. Mild steel is fine as long as it's thick enough for the intended length. I have a boring bar made of some sort of mild steel that is ½" diameter and about 200mm long.
    Chris

  2. #152
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    Like this.
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    Chris

  3. #153
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    Thanks Gavin and Jack, i have been searching the earth for 150-200mm 6x6mm tools i have only found chinese stuff the one i ordered last week is 200mm but its chinese quality wont be delivered untill later in the week

  4. #154
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    Don't be too down on the Chinese HSS. I have a mixture of Swedish, Japanese and Chinese HSS. For most jobs I can't tell the difference. I recently made a form tool from 6mmx6mm Chinese HSS and cut titanium with it no problem. I don't know how it holds up to brazing temperatures though.
    Chris

  5. #155
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I thought about that but doesn't the tool need to be hss so it doesn't bend or flex?
    If the bar has a reasonable cross section, is not too long, the bit is sharp, and sensible cuts are being made, the bar can be pretty much any steel.
    I made several out of 1/2" mild steel bar.

    Instead of welding I would consider making a removable tip like this.
    This is a boring bar for timber but the same bit holding method can be used for metal work.
    For a MW boring bar I locate the bit tip so that it reaches the end of the bar by placing it on a bit of an angle.
    This enables it to bore right down to the bottom of a hole.
    IMG_3443.jpg

    Recently I started using TC tipped boring bars as sets of these are dirt cheap. The first one I used was a 7mm (fits inside a 7mm bore) and it worked a treat. Unless I have to bore beyond about 50 mm in depth I won't be using my home made ones.

  6. #156
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    I need to bore 40mm deep Bob i will go to the steel supplier now google is saying they are open today i'll pick up half a meter of 6mm sque are round the tool as i nedd a square end to dit in my tool post

  7. #157
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    gazza,
    6mmx6mm is not big enough for the boring bar holder. Get 10mm or 12mm square. You can turn the end down to make it round if you have a 4 jaw chuck. If no 4 jaw, you can grind it down. It doesn't have to be pretty.
    Chris

  8. #158
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    And alternative is to use round stock and grind a small flat on it to fit in the tool holder.

  9. #159
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    Sometimes I use old bolts for stuff like this, they are everywhere! I wouldn't be buying steel from bunnings.

  10. #160
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    Jack Bugger i just got back from bunnings i bought six mm round bar its actually six.3mm

    Bob that's what the plan was but i may have to be patient with the round bar it doesn't look very strong

    Com i thought of doing that as i have a whole 10L bucket of bolts i have gathered from engine over the years but i didn't see anyone else doing it, i just picked up six.3mm round bar 1 meter for under $3 was going to the steel factory as google said it was open to buy the six x six mm square bar but they were closed

  11. #161
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    I'm going to place the 6mm round bar in the tool post and a small 3mm drill bit in the chuck and machine the two holes to slot a 3mm lathe tool thru the hole like u guys have done

    I will have to go back to hare and forbes they sell 3x3mm hss tooling blanks i'll grind one down to around 2mm diameter

    Will have to order some grub screws and the correct tap

  12. #162
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    Hi Gazza,

    Stop making it hard for yourself. Steel in one form or another is all around ! You said you have a bucket of bolts. You have some tool bits, some HSS drills. Years and years ago I was advised "never throw any bits of metal out" they will come in useful some day. I have stuff that I've kept for 20 or 30 years yes it does come in useful more often than you would think.

    One of the things that I would advise is to go to

    www.presto-tools.com

    Top of the page you should find "Downloads" right at the bottom of that page "Presto Counsellor" if they haven't changed it, and download a copy. Print out the relevant pages and laminate them and keep them in the workshop so you can refer to them as needed.

    Lots and lots of very useful information in there. Quite some time back they gave me a couple of printed counsellor booklets, I keep a copy in the workshop and the other next to my computer, just for reference.

    I note that they have added some new sections in the download that are not in the printed booklet.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #163
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    I went back to bunnings after i realised i couldn't do much with the six mm round bar so i grabbed a M10 150mm bolt and turned it into this, i got a hell of a lot of feedback while machining the threads but i powered thru it slowly and surely once the threads were cleared it cut nice and smooth

    the smaller section of the bolt/bore cutter to be is six mm it fits into my tool post nicely i have not measured the other side yet i just got that to a radius of about 8 to 8.5mm somewhere around there, the tool overall is 150mm and i only machined down to six mm what would fit in the tool post

    now i need to decide if i want to take more meat off it or leave it, unsure yet

    had a brain fart moment and bought some M5 allen head bolts instead of grub screws ahh well, got a 4mm drill bit to use it with

    i had no bolts this big in my bucket the only M8 bolts i had i use with the flywheel puller so those bolts were needed
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  14. #164
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    Last pictures
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  15. #165
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    Hi Gazza,

    Coming along nicely

    One thing that I do when turning something long like that is to put it as far back in the chuck as it will go and then put a centre in the end. This way I can use a centre in the tailstock to support the free end whilst turning the work. Particularly turning off threads. I also use a wide tipped tool bit as sometimes you might find that the threads try to drive the tool.

    The other thing is I would just use a file to put a pair of flats on so that it will fit into the lathe tool holder. If you are going to use a grub screw in the end to hold the boring bit, I would drill it threading size (refer to the Counsellor) mark the top and drill it at 45 degrees to take your tool bit. Put it back in the lathe tool holder and making sure that its square, tap the hole in the end.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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