Thread: New Lathe - AL-346V ?

This is the manual for the drive: http://www.mobinniroo.com/shihlin/SS...Manual-101.pdf

James's posts above mention the parameter you need to change. On mine I needed to set P77 to zero, as it was set to 1 which prevents changing parameters.

I'm moderately pleased with my MH-28V - I am not a fan of its variable speed setup - the vector drive on the AL-346V is vastly superior in terms of maintaining torque and speed. I did purchase Ebay plans for CNC conversion, but haven't been that motivated.

That said, I have been able to mill steel with precision, so it's doing the job. Down the track I can see myself replacing it with a heavier unit, but that requires more space and access.

Originally Posted by RustyArc

This is the manual for the drive: http://www.mobinniroo.com/shihlin/SS...Manual-101.pdf

James's posts above mention the parameter you need to change. On mine I needed to set P77 to zero, as it was set to 1 which prevents changing parameters.

I'm moderately pleased with my MH-28V - I am not a fan of its variable speed setup - the vector drive on the AL-346V is vastly superior in terms of maintaining torque and speed. I did purchase Ebay plans for CNC conversion, but haven't been that motivated.

That said, I have been able to mill steel with precision, so it's doing the job. Down the track I can see myself replacing it with a heavier unit, but that requires more space and access.

Thanks for that!,

Had a quick read. Looks quite comprehensive. I have no experience with these sort of drives so this will be useful in understanding their operation.

Yeah, I wondered about that with the MH-28V. It has a DC motor does it not. My little lathe has one and speed/torque control is not good either. So I was thinking a bigger mill, fit it out with a 3 phase motor and VFD, then add CNC. Probably cost way more than the mill though to convert. Or I could do what an ex work colleague did. Bought himself a 2nd hand Haas CNC.

Hi all,

I have just purchased an AL-346V lathe, its my first time having or using a lathe. I've had a bit of a play for a couple of hours and it seems pretty easy as a beginner to get it to work. obviously I've not done anything major on it.

A couple of things I have found annoying to far is the tool kit that comes with it doesn't have the correct Allen key for the tool holder. and also doesn't come with a spanner to undo the main nut on the tool post, which seems it will be used a lot during operation to adjust the angle of the cutting tool.

Another thing that is confusing me, and I hope its just me having no idea what I'm doing. but with a Dead center, Live center, Drill arbor in the tail stock. It wont get to Zero. It starts ejecting what ever arbor is in there at around 16mm, which just seems so strange, and I have played around looked at it but cant see any way of adjusting it.

Just wondering if it is just the way it is?

Thanks, and looking forward to learning the ways of the lathe.

Regards

Nick

Originally Posted by Nick w

A couple of things I have found annoying to far is the tool kit that comes with it doesn't have the correct Allen key for the tool holder. and also doesn't come with a spanner to undo the main nut on the tool post, which seems it will be used a lot during operation to adjust the angle of the cutting tool.

It'll get worse once you buy more tool holders - mine have all different Allen key sizes, to the point where I've taken to marking the top with a paint pen. From memory they're a mix of 3/16" and 5mm, and the lock nuts are either5/8" or 17mm.

While the yanks routinely angle the post for thread cutting, I was told just to leave everything square, and it seems to have worked fine (when thread cutting with inserts at least).

It starts ejecting what ever arbor is in there at around 16mm, which just seems so strange

I assumed it was the normal way of ejecting the tool, but I haven't really looked into it.

I assumed it was the normal way of ejecting the tool, but I haven't really looked into it.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the response.


I believe it is the correct way to wind it back in and it pushes out the tool, but with say a drill arbor in there, it can only read from say 16mm as a starting point. which I find odd. so if I came up to the job and wanted to drill in say 10mm, I would have to go in to 26mm. if that makes sense.

Regards

Nick

=Nick w;1999181I assumed it was the normal way of ejecting the tool, but I haven't really looked into it.


Thanks for the response.


I believe it is the correct way to wind it back in and it pushes out the tool, but with say a drill arbour in there, it can only read from say 16mm as a starting point. which I find odd. so if I came up to the job and wanted to drill in say 10mm, I would have to go in to 26mm. if that makes sense.

Regards

Nick

Hi Nick,

Welcome to the forums. Enjoy your new lathe and spend some time playing with it. Every lathe has its own peculiarities, learning about them is just a part of learning how to make best use of your tools.

Yes it is the way that a Morse taper is normally ejected from the tailstock, a lot of lathes, mine included do this, though the tailstock barrel is not usually calibrated ! Mine just has an index mark every 1/8" inch, which isn't a problem. One turn of the hand wheel is 1/8" of an inch, which isn't calibrated either !

Some people make a "Poor mans DRO" from a digital calliper to accurately measure the tailstock barrel movement.
Mine is actually a digital tyre depth gauge just attached by a strong magnet and uses a plastic bracket attached to the tailstock barrel to move the calliper slide.

My TS quill is the same. But different tools get ejected at different quill extensions. For instance, my drill chuck will get ejected at 30mm but the live centre won't until about 10mm.

I have just learnt to live with the fact that when centre drilling, I have to start at 30mm.

I'm yet to find a tool that I use in the TS that can start at 0 and use the full TS travel.


Simon

Sent from a galaxy far far away

the Morse taper tooling has a tang at the end which determines when it will eject from the lathe. If it ejects too soon then grind the tang back until it ejects where you want it too. I have seen some tooling with a bolt in the end so it can be adjusted as required

Thanks everyone, I have made my first part. and in typical me fashion had the lathe maxed out. must say I felt a bit silly when I worked out that max DIA 310, wasn't actually what it could clamp, As I had a 300mm piece of steel to spin in it. But I got it done and am stoked with the machine.
And i guess ill just have to deal with the pesky tailstock.