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15th Nov 2018, 05:46 PM #1Most Valued Member
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Porta-power for general pressing and bearing removal/fitment etc
Anyone use porta-power style hydraulic gear around the workshop?
I've got a small press but on various vehicles over the years I've found that there's always a job where a generic hydraulic power source would have been great - for things that have to be done on the vehicle or where the item won't fit in the press.
Current job is front ball joint replacement on my wife's Landrover. I reckon with a porta-power, one of the low profile cylinders and a couple of bits of scrap I'd already be done and having a beer rather than still messing around with mechanical pullers. I'm expecting a bit of large hammer and gas torch action even with the porta-power.
If you do use one, are there a particular cylinder styles/sizes that are more useful than others for general automotive applications. I'm thinking along the lines of one of the internal/external threaded ones (maybe around 200mm closed length), and a low profile one.
Steve
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15th Nov 2018, 07:19 PM #2Diamond Member
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I have a 20T 6" stroke enerpac cylinder at home and i haven't found a job it couldn't do. I have also made numerous attachments that screw on the end of it. I use gear up to 60T at work but i doubt your rebuilding rock crushers at home.
I would steer clear of the cheap 10t sets that are all over the place, i have found the break really easily.
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15th Nov 2018, 07:36 PM #3Philomath in training
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I have a 10T enerpac (with frame) and use it for all sorts too. I use it for broaches as well as pressing bearings and bending bar stock as well as other things.
Michael
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15th Nov 2018, 09:06 PM #4Member
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I have a 5 tonne porta power and a 10 tonne panel beating set (machinery house) which i built a press for use in straightening fork tubes etc can't be without it (on sale this weekend for $198) i love the pull cylinders and have that set as well for a home workshop 10/10.
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15th Nov 2018, 10:22 PM #5Member
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I’ve got a few different options in the shed. Have a 20t enerpac and frame as well as a 10t 50mm high 10mm stroke cylinder for jacking machines when needed.
I have a Sykes pickavant hydraulic puller too for bearings an pulleys and it is pretty amazing.
For ball joints and tie rods it’s pretty hard to beat the 2 big hammers method. It’s yet to fail me and I’ve cracked some old ones apart. Heat only kills the boot and most mechanical pullers either break or still ruin the boot
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15th Nov 2018, 10:55 PM #6Most Valued Member
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Agree with the 2 hammers - for separating the tapers. I've also got an old aircraft rover gun ie long stroke air hammer and 200x5x6 block of tungsten that weighs about 10kg. Combo of the rivet gun with the dense backing bar does the same as the 2 hammers but leaves more knuckle skin
Getting balljoints out after they've been split is the bit I struggle with.
Last night with dodgy method
IMG_4881 (Medium).JPG
Tonight was successful with a new tool, large bar and a minor heat.
IMG_4885 (Medium).JPG
Grrrr - damn photos are sideways and I can't get them rotated. On the PC as Tapatalk doesn't want to upload them at all
Steve
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16th Nov 2018, 02:14 AM #7
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16th Nov 2018, 07:44 AM #8Most Valued Member
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Geez, don't post photos sideways on this forum! I have been in big trouble for this crime in the past!
Crucifixion for first offence. Baron saved you'e bacon on this occasion. +1 for the two hammer method.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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16th Nov 2018, 09:35 AM #9Most Valued Member
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No worries Simon. There's still the nail holes from my first offense so it was easier this time
Thanks Baron!!!
Not sure whether I've copped a dodgy update of Tapatalk on my iPhone, but it won't let me upload photos at all. Normally on the PC I can just rotate the image, save it, then rotate back again and save and its all good when I upload. Didn't play this time. Damn technology - tempted to take a hammer to it....
Steve
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16th Nov 2018, 09:51 AM #10Senior Member
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Slightly off topic, but what style Landrover is it, I'm not familiar with the type in your pictures?
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16th Nov 2018, 10:02 AM #11Most Valued Member
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It's a 2003 Discovery 2.
Doing swivel bearings on the Defender style front axles is much easier!
Steve
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16th Nov 2018, 04:16 PM #12Most Valued Member
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It's a model with independent susspension, hence the photos of ball joints. As Steve said, doing swivel bearings on a solid axle is much easier.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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16th Nov 2018, 04:32 PM #13Most Valued Member
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Actually its still solid axle Kryn. Just has an swivel arm with exposed CV and balljoints compared to the the large swivel ball of the early ones and Defenders. The discovery didn't go to independent front end until around 2005 with the Disco 3.
There's definitely no way you're changing one of these ball joints on the side of the road somewhere remote, where's I'd be quite comfortable doing the old type.
Steve
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16th Nov 2018, 04:44 PM #14Most Valued Member
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Back on topic, any chance of model numbers of the 10T and 20T rams you guys are using at home?
There's lots of different models and brands around. The genuine Enerpac ones I've seen I'd nearly have to sell a kidney to buy. They also seem to be physically quite large apart from the low profile short stroke ones like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENERPAC-...IQU:rk:11:pf:0
Steve
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16th Nov 2018, 05:47 PM #15Diamond Member
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RC106 is an Enerpac part number it is 10 ton and gives you 6" of stroke and is single acting.
There are a heap of different ones that are equivalent to the Enerpac, the stuff you get from china aka hares and forbes style are not, the attachments are not compatible and the fittings are different. If it is only for occasional use one of the cheaper kits might suit you fine.
Other brands you could check out that are similar but cheaper are Power team, Dura Pac, Simplex, Richmon, Fleet Hydrol.
Also some of the cylinders use metric threads and some imperial for the attachments.
The low profile ones you only use as required (clearance), otherwise they are pretty much useless for most applications but still handy to have around.
Then you need to decide on what pump you want to use. Hand, air/hydraulic, electric, cordless, combustion etc
Valving?
Lots of options.
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