Thread: Horizontal Bandsaws

Bob,
I assume that mod seriously reduces the torque though. How does it go on tougher materials? Does the motor get hot?

Hi jack,
I have only done a couple cuts of some 25mm diameter pieces of steel bar, it did not have any trouble cutting this.The cutting time was considerably faster. Before this modification the motor would be quite warm almost too warm to put your hand on when cutting larger diameter sections or doing multiple cuts over a short time period . I have been told that this is a normal temperature for this style of motor. In its standard form these saws in my opinion place far too much load on the blade and the motor, this is part of the reason that it is hard too keep them cutting straight. This is why I have added the hydraulic down feed control and the spring buttons and always use cutting oil. With the now 50% increase in surface feet speed I would expect the chip load per tooth to be reduced and therefore the motor load should be lower. I will keep an eye on it when I cut a heavier section.
Bob

Found this in an email that was sent to me. Utilising a 1 2 3 Precision Block.
Thought it was a unique way of setting up the fixed jjaw square to the blade.
https://rick.sparber.org/PrecisionHo...wAlignment.pdf
A bit further down the email was this handy idea, for holding odd shaped bits, but requires drilling and tapping the bed of the saw.
Holding Odd Pieces In 4x6 Metal Bandsaw - HomemadeTools.net

Aslo one for the theorists out there, on slack blades
https://rick.sparber.org/SlackBlade.pdf
Hope this helps someone.
Kryn

I've had my BS-5S for around three years, in that time I have never changed speeds. After destroying one bimetal I went to carbon and blades last quite a while if under coolant. Bimetals may be good for solids but for thin walled tube they are hopeless.

Bimetal is all I've ever used, 24tpi cutting thin tube, pipe, solid bar, sheet, angle, cast and just about anything else, it's been cut in my saw, and not with coolant either.
Kryn

Originally Posted by 4me

I've had my BS-5S for around three years, in that time I have never changed speeds. After destroying one bimetal I went to carbon and blades last quite a while if under coolant. Bimetals may be good for solids but for thin walled tube they are hopeless.

Totally agree, I've bought 2 bimetal one's 15/20 years ago and ripped teeth off and 18tpi was the finest the saw blade place carried, the 24tpi mentioned might have been better.
Went back to the carbon and then went coolant a few years latter and never looked back.

I've been using the 6x4 saw in this place for 12 months with out running coolant, just haven't bothered mixing it and jobs needed doing.
After just 6 months on a new blade it broke a few days ago, so back to coolant.
It could have just been the blade, but I'll blame running dry lol, I get way more life out of them than that and use it alot expecally on thin RHS.

I've gone the other way - used to use only carbon bands, but now I only use bimetal once I found out the down force has to be backed off a bit for tubing compared to solids. This is MUCH easier to do with a hydraulic damper than the usual spring arrangement. I use 10-14 for everything and haven broke any teeth in at least two years.

Originally Posted by BobL

I've gone the other way - used to use only carbon bands, but now I only use bimetal once I found out the down force has to be backed off a bit for tubing compared to solids. This is MUCH easier to do with a hydraulic damper than the usual spring arrangement. I use 10-14 for everything and haven broke any teeth in at least two years.

A hydraulic cylinder is on my to do list for many years but will definitely go on with the new stand and I just found a nice one way adjustable valve on AliExpress 3 days ago similar to the one on my 7x12. Never been able to find them cheap.

Dave J: Could you post up the link for that valve?

Originally Posted by Com_VC

Dave J: Could you post up the link for that valve?

I'm sure there would be cheaper around

Do those have the one way check valve in them though?

I just had another look and now I'm not sure they do, I know these do

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Bimetal is all I've ever used, 24tpi cutting thin tube, pipe, solid bar, sheet, angle, cast and just about anything else, it's been cut in my saw, and not with coolant either.
Kryn

Ditto with my BS4.
I used 10/14 pitch on the stiddy cut from the cane tram line and used a can wd-40 -with a straw attached- to periodically wash away the chips.

The blade is due for change now as its done over 200 cuts and cutting ok but out of square.

Once that happens there is no adjusting it back as there in uneven wear on one side of the blade.

The real trick is to have all adustments dead nuts square and follow a run in procedure.

Grahame

Grahame, is your blade slightly curved across the face from teeth to the back?
If so, you have too much pressure on the rolller, causing the blade to dish. There needs to be just enough pressure that the blade can be slid out with just a touch of drag, when its not on the wheels.
Kryn

great thread, I've enjoyed reading the comments and great ideas on modding these small saws. Today I finally purchased a Saber 115mm Bandsaw and will be implementing many of these ideas, the first of which will be to replace the spring down feed adjuster with a hydraulic equivalent. Ive seen a few videos on YouTube and so have a rough idea what needs to be done. Wonder what others have use for the hydraulic cylinder , also if anyone has a link etc to what other build etc.

TIA