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  1. #166
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Interesting to hear MGs comment about cutting stainless.

    I just happened to have made a heap of cuts in 25, 40 and 50 mm siam SS using my old 6x4
    The first cut was through a piece of 50 using a 10-14 bimetallic which did indeed take ages and left the cut work hardened.
    When I went to face off the cut on the lathe the Eccentric engineering Korloy bit struggled and as the cut was not dead flat the start of the facing off was a "ker-chunk, ker-chunk, ker-chunk" type operation and this was regularly chipping the cutter tip beyond use.
    I found I had to use a TC tipped to remove the work hardened skin.

    I then bought a 6-10 bimetallic blade. This worked very well on the 25mm SS (~8 teeth in the cut), and even the 40 mm (12 Teeth in the cut) but the 50 mm still needed the TC tips to skim the cut.

    Re: Lube for Al. I have a lube/coolant sytem which helps but I've also used candle wax cutting Al on my WW bandsaw and Table saw. The best wax to use is a "hard wax" stick - I've got some from BIL but have been looking to buy my own to use and have not been able to find any. The other really good lube for Al is meths.

  2. #167
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    I use spacers because I don't cut enough short stuff to warrant modifying the vice. However, I have a new trick in the arsenal. I could use this -

    strong hand.JPG
    Full product details below, but I bought the 6" version so anything over an inch is fair game. For welding this sort of plier is used for pushing stuff apart (and I have used them for that) but as an adjustable spacer in a bandsaw vice . For those in SA, WESS stock them.

    https://stronghandtools.com/strongha...pand-o-pliers/

    Michael

  3. #168
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    I use spacers because I don't cut enough short stuff to warrant modifying the vice. However, I have a new trick in the arsenal. I could use this -

    strong hand.JPG
    Full product details below, but I bought the 6" version so anything over an inch is fair game. For welding this sort of plier is used for pushing stuff apart (and I have used them for that) but as an adjustable spacer in a bandsaw vice . For those in SA, WESS stock them.

    https://stronghandtools.com/strongha...pand-o-pliers/

    Michael
    Never knew they existed, thanks

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  4. #169
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Hi Michael
    It is a really useful tool but I could not stretch the budget that far just as a jaw spacer.

    I have about 30 odd pairs of vice grips and their cheaper copies so I can sacrifice one of the lesser pair to convert them to this pusher tool.

    Thanks for the idea

    I normally use a 10mm joiner nut and some rolled threaded bar as a quick adjustable vice jaw spacer for my BS-4. I don't usually cut anything much wider than 75mm ,so for this width it works a treat.

    Grahame

  5. #170
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Cairns, Qld.
    Posts
    70

    Default Bandsaws

    All this talk about bandsaws... Some weeks ago, after wearing myself out manually hacksawing through a short piece of 60mm dia. steel bar for a project, I finally succumbed & bought a new 6x4 bandsaw. At my age I should have been smart enough to do this many years ago.

    It’s a Saber brand, from a well-known national tool stores chain, effectively the same as the BS-4 as sold by H & F & others. Having done plenty of research prior, I was rather surprised to see that the supplied instruction manual was mostly a direct copy of the ‘Grizzly G0622’ one as per USA, complete with an American tech. support phone number; but having different front & rear pages relating to Australian details/warranty etc. Strangely, several important pages from the original manual were omitted.
    As you really need to with new imported equipment, I spent some days generally checking/fettling/playing with the machine in line with what I’d learned on this very thread & a couple of other web-sites before I cut anything that mattered, learning how much one adjustment (frustratingly) can affect various other settings. Adjustment of blade tracking over the drive & idler wheels was not clear initially due to shortcomings in the manual. As received, the blade guide blocks were set with very heavy pressure on the back bearings even when free running, pushing the blade much too far forward & scarring the OD of the bearings & further complicating the blade tracking. The idler wheel bearings were on a path to imminent failure due to over-tightening of the central fixing screw & lack of spacers/shims. Excess free play between the slots in the idler wheel sliding mount unit & the main frame was remedied with 0.8mm steel shims. These & several other issues are all fixed now & I’ve got a much better understanding about adjusting the thing. A great idea from this thread was to mark the ends of the pivot bolts for the four side-blade bearings to show the high spot of the eccentric:- makes setting them very easy.
    All in all I’m pleased with the machine, it cuts well. Saves lots of tedious manual work & less parting-off in the lathe must be a good thing.
    Halifax614

  6. #171
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Halifax614, Guys,

    Some weeks ago, after wearing myself out manually hacksawing through a short piece of 60mm dia. steel bar for a project, I finally succumbed & bought a new 6x4 bandsaw. At my age I should have been smart enough to do this many years ago.
    Those were my words, exactly ! It is probably the most well used tool in the workshop. I've cut all sorts of materials with mine. Once you get it properly set up you will be surprised how useful and accurate it can be.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #172
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Well over 20 years ago I went to look at a power hacksaw in a garage sale as I wasn't on the internet and combed the local news papers.

    I turned up late in in the day and it was a 115x100mm bandsaw, but I bought it anyway.

    I remember the learning curve trying to get the blade to run straight and nothing worked, then bought a new blade locally and all was fine,lol

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  8. #173
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Dave, Guys,

    I was lucky then ! I got a brand new blade with mine plus the unused original wood cutting blade. Which is still unused. So I never had the blade problem.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #174
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    I think my blade was well used and knowing nothing about bandsaws then, it then did my head in as every adjustment didn't work.

    On the other side I bought a well used larger saw 7x12 About 9 years ago.

    About 1 1/2 years ago I took completely apart and remachined the bed, painted it etc, got it running and found the pivot point had slop that I didn't check as it was all gummed up, didn't realise the wear it had as my little one has none, maybe cheaper cast iron as it was never than little one.

    I got it all running and all I can see the arm moving when cutting, it's still sitting in the corner unused after a couple of test cuts, plus I tried to cut some stainless steel on it and wrecked 2 blades,lol

    I've got to virtually take it all apart again including electricals to put the bed on the mill and machine the pivot bore and then make a new shaft.

    I love my little saw, not sure if I'll keep the larger one as I don't really need it.

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