Thread: Horizontal Bandsaws

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Have reloaded the pics, so if someone could let me know if they came through OK,

Yep! OK. Kyrn pics visible my end.

Grahame

I discovered the fixed jaw on the used saw I bought had been welded to the base, so after seeing Kryn post a photo of a mitre guide in another thread I knocked this one up.






Stores nicely in the base of the infeed roller I made at the same time.




Steve

Nice one Steve. One thing I forgot to mention, was that I welded a nut (for a length of 12mm rod as a stopper) on the end of the angle piece away from the blade to allow me to cut multiple pieces the same length. As we know cutting multiple pieces of something with an angle on the end isn't always easy!!! I think from memory I used the stop supplied with the saw.
HTH
Kryn

Happened to be looking through You tube, and came across an interesting video of "Stretching the capabilities of your Bandsaw" by none other than our own Michael G.
Thanks Michael I learnt something new today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcepTHv78YY
Kryn

A nicely made video.
Well done Michael.
Grahame

Hi,

Nice video. I never thought of using an old candle for lubrication.

Quick question. I recently cut a short length of 63mm OD 12L14 bar stock from a 1 M length. The cut was a good 2 to 3 mm diagonally out. I had the length kind of supported (very sketchy). Cutting fluid was applied manually. I can't remember what speed was used. The bandsaw is a HF 4 x 6".

Anyone care to hazard a guess why it's cut so out?

Ben.

Originally Posted by bwal74

Anyone care to hazard a guess why it's cut so out?Ben.

From my my own experience

Wear on one side of the blade.Once this occurs it usually is only corrected by using a new blade and checking/resetting the blade guide.
With a worn blade, no amount of adjustment will return it to cutting perpendicular.

Potentially caused by:
The blade Guide Adjustment.
The blade guide adjustment can be checked by using a small block square set upon the clean bandsaw bed.The bow is placed in the horizontal position and the check made between the base and vertical edge of the blade.

I use a very small 50mm blade model and it is snugged up against the vertical edge of the blade. Because of the set of the teeth there is a small offset which should present a tiny parallel light gap.A small torch helps to see this.

The blade guides ( top and bottom and inner and outer) are adjusted by manipulating the torsion of the blade to a true perpendicular to the band saw bed.

Best done with the brand new blade which should ALWAYS be run in. This is a specific process. Most suppliers suppliers provide details on how to.
Checking and keeping the guides aligned will allow a long life from the blade.

Using the 3 and 10 tooth rule (see Michael's video) , the correct tooth count should be used, as not doing this is a very quick way of damaging the blade.

I hope this description is reasonably easy to follow.

squaring blades.jpg

Grahame

Not sure with your explanation of how you cut this but it could be that the material was not supported sufficiently and has kicked, 1 mtr of 63 has a reasonable weight to it, it could be a blunt blade, the down feed may of been to rapid, a build up of chips on the blade, once the blade tracks off square it won't really matter what you do, it generally just follows the angle.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Not sure with your explanation of how you cut this but it could be that the material was not supported sufficiently and has kicked, 1 mtr of 63 has a reasonable weight to it, it could be a blunt blade, the down feed may of been to rapid, a build up of chips on the blade, once the blade tracks off square it won't really matter what you do, it generally just follows the angle.

Hi Ben, Guys,

I had that kind of problem with a 1 meter length of 35 mm steel bar. I clamped it in the vise without any tail support and over the course of the cut the slight vibration caused it to droop. I've learnt to support any longish lengths of material now.

Normally I can cut within a few thou of square, but the vise back plate and blade guides do need to be properly set, and it is an iterative process. You do need to go around several times to get it right.

I enjoyed Michael’s video, but do yourself a favour and attach a piece of 10mm plate to each vice jaw to extend them out to just shy of the blade. An M10 bolt threaded into the movable jaw extension on the opposite side to the blade allows you to fine tune the grip of the jaws when gripping short pieces. Easier than faffing around with shims.

I don’t know if it applies to the smaller saws, but I find that if I have to move the blade guide support arms it really needs to be done with the tension off the blade or it tends to end up out of square.

I also got caught out recently with a dull blade not cutting square. Pity I’d already cut the batch of 50 pieces, but fortunate that the length was non critical so only cost me some time to square them up in the mill to recover.

Rookie mistake and I should know better - it always pays to check squareness and length regularly when cutting batches.

Steve

Originally Posted by jack620

I enjoyed Michael’s video, but do yourself a favour and attach a piece of 10mm plate to each vice jaw to extend them out to just shy of the blade. An M10 bolt threaded into the movable jaw extension on the opposite side to the blade allows you to fine tune the grip of the jaws when gripping short pieces. Easier than faffing around with shims.

Hi Chris,

27-09-2019-007.jpg

That is exactly what I did ! I used 6 mm plate and an M8 100 mm long screw.

+1 for Michael's video. A swivel head is so much more usable than a swivel jaw. The old Heska has a swivel jaw and it's a PITA.

But, she performs well and for her age does a great job!

Simon

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by BaronJ

That is exactly what I did ! I used 6 mm plate and an M8 100 mm long screw.

Hi John,
your mod is very similar to mine. However I used a much shorter bolt. Provided the bolt is a bit longer than 1", a 1-2-3 block makes up the difference and saves a lot of winding!

Good vid MG

I do what Michael does ..packers or shims etc.....putting bolt in for end of jaw is one of the roundtuit jobs....lol