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  1. #136
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    But where can you source a compact hydraulic cylinder suitable for a band saw without buying one from a bandsaw manufactuer? Which would be mega $$$

  2. #137
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by bts View Post
    Personally I`d go hydraulic. More load, better control and none of the bounce air can suffer from.
    I agree hydraulic is definitely better AND you need a lot more Kg support force than you think.

    I cannot find the one I bought on ebay but here is a similar one
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...feccfd65e69b35

    This one is only a 30kg support force - mine is a 60 kg one.

    Search term is "Hydraulic Damper"

  3. #138
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    Did not say it was cheap. To me just a better way to go. Depending on facilities they are not hard to make.
    May be a step up to 25mm bore pneumatic ram 35kg load would support the load better.
    A bit of testing is required.

    Tony

  4. #139
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    We have a $2500 hafco bandsaw at work and the cylinder will not retain it's setting after each cut, you need to manually adjust it each time. Not sure what's going on it with or if they are serviceable or a maintenance free throw away unit.

    The pneumatic cylinders are used quite a lot with DIYers, you just need a decent valve, that's probably the expensive part of it.

    When you convert to hydraulic, do you still keep the spring there to apply a bit of pressure?

  5. #140
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    When you convert to hydraulic, do you still keep the spring there to apply a bit of pressure?
    On mine the spring does not provide any downward pressure instead it provides a little bit of upward force
    When I first added my damper I removed the spring but then I found the BS worked slightly better when I put the spring back. The adjustment of the damper fall rate is coarsish so the spring provides a sort of fine adjustment to the up pressure.

    The other thing to consider is stroke length since a shorter length limits placement positions. Mine has only a 50 mm stroke but I see there are now 80 mm stroke dampers readily available.

  6. #141
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    Do you know if that is the way all of them are setup? To provide upwards pressure?

  7. #142
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    The idea with the pneumatic cylinders is to add hydraulic fluid to them, which makes them far more precise. Remember air is just a very thin liquid.

    The plan is something similar to this one: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...bandsaw.36549/

    I see you can get the cylinders in 25x100 as well, so that will make it easier: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cylinder...l/163695119030

  8. #143
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    Don't think it would work too well without some sort of oil in there. Never heard of anyone doing that before.

  9. #144
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    These are a bit useless now I have seen the pic`s from your link. Nice setup.

    30mm bore ram stuck under the head of Herless 7"

    160mm stroke compress down to about 80mm at approx. 25 psi.
    Moved further to the rear stroke is compressed down to about 40 mm at 40-45 psi. By the time it was setup in the right place load will increase and I think you would be out of stroke.

    DSC06575 e.jpgDSC06576 e.jpgDSC06577 e.jpg

    Did not read through the full link, with the valves you need a variable needle to set flow rate and an easy 1/4 turn to stop flow completely. That way off can be set while you set up then easy turn on with flow already set.

  10. #145
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    Hi Takai.

    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    I picked up the H&F 6x4 in the November sale, and overall fairly happy with it. Need to build a new stand for it, as the stock pressed steel one is terrible, but that is fairly trivial. Also going to set up a few different mods for it, such as the 90deg stop etc

    But the big one im planning on is the hydraulic downfeed. I picked up a Bimba cylinder in the US recently, but it seems they sold me the wrong thing as its a sprung return single action. So instead im looking at one of these: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bore16mm...g/163001377835

    Anyone used the cheap ebay ones?
    I'm using an old car shock absorber for mine ! Have a look at this thread. The hydraulic mod starts at post 61.
    The thread also shows all the refurbishment and mods that I've done to mine. I wish I'd bought one years ago.

    https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t203...aw-acquisition
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #146
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    May 2008
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    Perth
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    I love my BS-7L, but it's exactly like the salesperson told me when I opted for that one - I'll regret not having bought the swivel head model



    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    We have a $2500 hafco bandsaw at work and the cylinder will not retain it's setting after each cut, you need to manually adjust it each time. Not sure what's going on it with or if they are serviceable or a maintenance free throw away unit.
    The cylinders are pretty average, seem to be hit & miss with the feed rate. I found with mine that if I use the dial to set the approx max feed rate I'd want (since it doesn't stay the same each time, and that dial does a pretty rotten job of adjusting the feed), and then I turn the handle just the barest until it's going down at the speed I want.
    You can buy replacements from them, but the price is eye watering.
    But, it might be possible to service, if this post gives any ideas; https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/547...comment=590463

  12. #147
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    The old Herless RF712 still runs pretty well. I have never had any problem with the feed rate on the cylinder.
    I can remember when Herless use to be the butt of cheep machinery jokes. Since Hafco took over they seem to have taken it to a new (lower) level.

    Tony

  13. #148
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    Default A Couple of mods for the Bandsaw

    Happened to see this idea in an email from somewhere and thought I'd share it here.

    Have used milling clamps in H/V for years... Some set-ups are impossible to clamp with the original clamp. The T-nut slips right into the slot for the clamp slider. Can usually get most set-ups clamped using the existing slot.
    Bandsaw Clamp.jpg
    Here's fuzzy pic of the piece of angle bolted to bandsaw to support thin material. Still need packing on 'back end' of vice when material doesn't reach to pivot bolt though.
    Butted it against edge of back plate then used saw blade to cut the 'zero clearance' slot.
    Swarf drops through underneath.
    Bandsaw zero fence.jpg

    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #149
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Happened to see this idea in an email from somewhere and thought I'd share it here.

    Have used milling clamps in H/V for years... Some set-ups are impossible to clamp with the original clamp. The T-nut slips right into the slot for the clamp slider. Can usually get most set-ups clamped using the existing slot.
    Attachment 388304
    Here's fuzzy pic of the piece of angle bolted to bandsaw to support thin material. Still need packing on 'back end' of vice when material doesn't reach to pivot bolt though.
    Butted it against edge of back plate then used saw blade to cut the 'zero clearance' slot.
    Swarf drops through underneath.
    Attachment 388305

    HTH
    Kryn
    No pictures came through
    Using Tapatalk

  15. #150
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    Thanks Dave. Have reloaded the pics, so if someone could let me know if they came through OK, PLEASE. Haven't had trouble before loading pics??
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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