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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default Log splitter Advice needed

    Hi all,

    I'm going to build an hydraulic log splitter. Most of the components I already have. It will be a vertical splitter but will house diagonally (almost flat) for transportation purposes.

    Procurring the components on a budget has been challenging, particularly the ram. As such I managed to purchase a near new ram for $250 but it's a little bigger than I need at 6" diameter and 800mm stroke. This will obviously need a larger capacity pump in order not to have a very slow cycle time so I will opt for a 33 GPM pump @ 3000 psi. This pump will need a few HP to run it so I have waiting for it a 1.6L corolla motor. The little toyota will develop 78HP @ 5600 rpm but I plan on running it at about 2500 - 300 rpm and so I expect around 35HP to play with.

    I only want to build this thing once (things take me long enough, don't want to have to redo it!) so I don't want to find it fail on it's maiden split so my biggest decision is what spine to use. I have two options;

    The usual UC (H beam) which I have a piece of W8 x 31 (200x200mm beam) and make it the same as 90% of the commercial splitters out there.

    The other option is to use RHS. I also have at my disposal enough material to make the spine out of twin 150x100x6mm RHS.

    If I made it out of the RHS then they would be attached side by side (150mm in depth) and a gap between them to allow a tongue to slide between and a backing plate at the rear as the guide. Similar to this design:
    Hydraulic Wood LOG Splitter 35HP 7in RAM in VIC | eBay

    I generally have little idea of how much steel bends when I make (potentially) high stressed projects so I tend to just over-engineer but I have material for both options. Which would produce the more solid arrangement?

    If it was as simple as just the moment of area, then I suspect the RHS would be more solid but I don't really know enough to be certain.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Edit: I corrected the pressure to 3000 psi (not 300)

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Yarra Valley Vic oz
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    1,995

    Default

    Do you mean 3000 psi?

    300 would only give you about 4 tonne of push.

  3. #3
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Yep, I meant 3000 psi. However, I would de-rate it by adjusting the relief valve on the control detent valve to about 2000 psi. That would give me 25 tonnes, which is plenty.

    I also plan on fitting it on a (roughly) 5' x 3' (900x 1200) trailer platform. I also do not plan on using suspension on the trailer. just a solid axle attached to a beam. Similar to other splitters.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Bunbury WA
    Posts
    98

    Default

    I don't know much about the deflection but I am fascinated by log splitters and have looked at a few on youtube and they all seem to function well with UC beams.
    I would love to build one but have no need for it so it won't happen, that said though, I hope you keep us informed of your progress and a video of it in action.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    nowra
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    1,598

    Default

    Interesting, I look.forward to the build if I were you I would go.with a 2 section pump and a smaller motor. Almost every logsplitter I have seen has had a uc beam.
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  6. #6
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by welder View Post
    Interesting, I look.forward to the build if I were you I would go.with a 2 section pump and a smaller motor. Almost every logsplitter I have seen has had a uc beam.
    Thanks guys.

    I've just been out machining the adapter plate to mate the pump to the engine. Pretty simple process (from a machining POV) but I want it to be nice. I am also going to attempt to ge away without using a lovejoy coupling. This will mean the mating shaft and keyway will need to be pretty much spot on alignment wise.

    Andre, I was initially going to use a 2 stage pump like a 28 GPM 2 stage but when the second stage kicks in it goes to 9 GPM. Do you realise how painfully slow a 6" ram will move with 9 GPM?

    The only reason why log splitters use a 2 stage pump is because they lack the HP to pump the same amount of GPM at the higher pressures attained once it takes up on the log. I will have about 35 HP at my disposal so I'm keeping to a single stage and will enjoy the faster cycle times. I will also enjoy a much quieter work environment with a water cooled engine running at about 2500 rpm. 12V alternator means I can run work lights or an MP3 stereo player. Parts are also dirt cheap and the local super cheap and I also get to tinker with a car engine!

    Well, that's my excuse anyway....

    Yea, I realise that most log splitters use a UC type setup but I'm just looking at all options.

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
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    63
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    4,049

    Default

    I built my own splitter many years ago. It is vertical, on small non road wheels so it stays on my property , has a lifting arm to get the wood to table height and the mast is made from "I" beam. I have plans and materials to make this beam more rigid. The splitter has split many tonnes of tough wood and it is still fine, but it does have a tendency to twist. A lot of the wood I split is twisted/crooked and puts uneven pressure on the mast. I have welded 100mm x 6mm flat on an angle from top to bottom of the beam, but silly me put it the wrong way around . It doesn't do much under compression when it is about 1500mm long. I need to remove this, put it the right way around and box in the beam at crucial locations. I will also strengthen the beam where the blade slides up and down with a length of 8 or 10mm thick angle on the inside, both sides where the blade travels. The ends of this angle will be 2 of the crucial boxed in sections.

    My splitter mast is made from 250mm x 125mm x 7mm flanges. It has a 6.5Hp motor. It can easily twist the mast to a scary degree. Depends on whether you are going to restrict yourself to straight grained wood.

    The rigidity of the mast will depend on the structural support you use. The splitter you linked to has the mast attached to the chassis at both ends. The design will be more important than the materials used. If you make a rigid frame that folds up and down with the mast then I can see this working. I would tend to go with the RHS. The fact that it is already completely boxed in would make it more rigid.

    My blade is different to most splitters. I had this design recommended to me by the owner of an engineering firm that I had make the blade for me. A lot of splitters are made around this area. Here is a quick sketch. The main body is 250mm x 250mm x 25mm plate. The extended point is 50mm x 50mm, the red areas are sharpened to a point and the green area is a length of 50mm x 6mm angle laid flat on each side to form a triangular wedge. It is welded to a plate on the right side which sits against the face of the mast. The extended point enables it to get an easier entry and start the split.


    Splitter Blade.jpg

    Another design which is lower in height, utilises an arm pivoting in the middle. The ram sits in front of the mast and pushes up on the arm, while the rear of the arm does the splitting. The mast only needs to be as high as the pivot point. A neighbour has one of these and is pretty happy with it. I have never actually seen it used in anger tho.

    Dean

  8. #8
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Hi Dean,

    Thanks for the info. I like your blade design. I'm hoping to make a 4 way splitter but with one side missing to that it will do 1/2 and 2/4 if you no what I mean.

    The other thing that you have that I am interested in is a lifting ramp. I envisage that the work platform of the splitter will sit waist high for me, this will mean getting the logs up there. Although if I have collected the logs from the state park (authorised forewood collection area) then it will be a matter of slideing them from the trailer to the splitter, roughly the same height.

    I plan on making a small conveyor out of a treadmill. I have aquired a 450W 12DC motor attached to a small gearbox from an electric scooter which I plan to use to power it. To allow it to be used on an incline, I will rivit aluminium angle to the belt to "catch" the logs. This may or may not work, I will have to see.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #9
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    Mar 2008
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    nowra
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Thanks guys.

    I've just been out machining the adapter plate to mate the pump to the engine.

    Andre,. Do you realise how painfully slow a 6" ram will move with 9 GPM?



    Simon
    Yes. I have done the tafe fluid power course at 9gpm it will be moving 30 mm a second
    I Think your brave for directly driving the pump without a flexible coupling, Its too bad you have the pump already.
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  10. #10
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    Default

    Yea sorry. Didint want to tell you how to suck eggs. You would run rings around me with this stuff!!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #11
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    nowra
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Yea sorry. Didint want to tell you how to suck eggs. You would run rings around me with this stuff!!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Speed needs power with 125 liters a minute it goes up too 114mm a second but running at 200 BAR at a flow rate of 125 liters a minute you need 41 kw if you lower the relief valve to 138 bar you only need 29 kw. So the Toyota engine is a good match. Do you already have the pump and hoses.
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  12. #12
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    I think it should work out ok. 200 bar at 100 lpm is a bit unrealistic given it will be running at 300 rpm and the little corolla wont develop its peak power until about 5500rpm but i do intend to reduce the relief valve pressure to 2/3 that at about 135 bar or 2000 psi.

    The other thing i need to sort out is an engine governor so that regardless of load the engine rpm stays put. There are electronic governors on ebay which do this quite nicely using a linear proportional actuator and a speed sensor. I already have the actuator since i saw one on ebay at reasonable cost.


    Andre, i am yet to purchase either the pump or fittings/hoses but i haved worked the hose sizes for the pressure, return and suction. I also know which pump i will purchase from a seller on ebay.

    Simon



    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #13
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    Melbourne
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    Just reread your last post regarding pressures and hp. I basically repeated what you said derrrr....

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #14
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    nowra
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    I have a Lamborghini Hydraulic pump here about that size if your interested, might make it go faster. The governer is an issue I know nothing about. But I have read about someone online using one for a firewood processor with a car motor.
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  15. #15
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    Mar 2014
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    South of Adelaide
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    The beam you have should be plenty strong enough. I would build it so that it only uses about half the stroke of the cylinder, this reduces the chance of bending the rod ( i have seen this happen). i would recommend using a bit of 400 bisalloy for the blade if you can get hod of some. What rpm does the pump do 33gpm? Your going to need a fairly large spool to handle that flow and minimum 1" hose.

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