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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Default Belt grinder/linisher

    Hi,

    I have the need for a specific purpose belt grinder/linishing machine, my multitool is used too often to tie it up, so I have decided to build my own based on the well known KMG, I have
    enough 'I will need that one day" stuff laying around the shed. I have a question is the radius on the tracking wheel critical or does it just need to be a even shallow radius.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi,

    Just make the crown on the drum a few mm larger than the outer edges. Say 3 mm for a 100 mm wide drum. It is not critical at all.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    ACT
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    667

    Default

    I made my own variable speed 48" knife style grinder/Linisher a few months back after collecting parts for ages. It can fit both48 and 72" belts, but I like the more compact nature of the 48. Still yet to make a couple of other attachments such as small radius wheel and mount for the rubber contact wheel.

    I think mine would benefit if I re machined my tracking wheel - which I made at 2 degree taper from each side towards the middle. It works fine but can be sensitive to track well on some belts. THat taper gives it about 2mm more in the middle( depending on width of your wheel). Would agree with Baron to give it a little more in the centre to about 3 mm.

    Cheers

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    4,255

    Default

    I thought about making my own but considered it was easier to buy them

    https://www.knifegrinderparts.com/collections/wheels

    I'll get around to finishing it one day

  5. #5
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Default

    On a 50mm wide drum even a couple of turns of electrical tape in the middle and 1 turn on either side of the middle turn can act as a sufficient crown.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Oz
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    Default

    I was going to make my own belt sander, and then I priced the parts. That put an end to that.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies, I thought about buying them, but I have a quantity of new bearings plus plenty of aluminium, so I will make them, only thing is I will need some one to broach the keyway

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    ACT
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    667

    Default

    buying ready made parts like idler, tracking and contact wheels not to mention all different attachments can be very expensive. However not everyone is expensive, there is/was a guy in Poland making wheel sets for $100-120 including postage who was selling on ebay.

    If you have a lathe and a welder, and find/pick up some raw materials cheaply and a few bearings then its pretty easy to make a decent grinder. Most expensive items for mine were a good 3phase motor and VFD.

    Also fairly simple to cut a keyway in the lathe using a boring bar.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    If you send the parts to melbourne im happy to broach them for you, although I dont have many metric broaches.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Default

    I picked a pack of 20 NHK bearings a couple of years ago because they were ridiculously cheap and I have about 10 or so 55mm off cuts of aluminium bar so it seems pointless to buy ready made items
    plus I have several motors collecting dust
    Thanks for the offer caskwarrior I think I will be able find some one locally, I will keep you in mind just in case, I will investigate the above mentioned method of using a boring bar, only the drive wheel needs a key way

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,628

    Default

    If broaching isn’t an option could you drill a small hole on the PCD of what the centre hole OD will be then just file it square for the key way?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
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    6,540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    ... is the radius on the tracking wheel critical or does it just need to be a even shallow radius.
    In this post here //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1848...52#post1871552 I had a look at that and the rule of thumb from Machinery's Handbook is 1/8" per foot of belt width. It should not be much because if too pronounced it will distort the belts.

    I'd offer to do your keyways for you as I have the metric broaches and the press but while they are in Adelaide, I'm not and probably won't be for several months. If you don't mind a bit of file work, there is this way - //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1851...57#post1779057. If you can wait several (indeterminate) months I may be able to help.

    Michael

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Michael this project will not happen overnight (I tend to get side tracked easily) when I am ready I will contact you and see where you are if I get desperate I will have a go at doing it in the lathe,
    re the radius I had a really clever moment and decided t measure the radius on my Multitool ( yeh I know some times the simplest things allude me) it is only about 1mm high in the center.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    That sounds about right for a 50 - 60 mm wide pulley. As far as the keyway is concerned, you could always just drill the shaft and then mill a slot across the end of the pulley diameter, then use a bit of round bar as a key. You will need to prevent the pulley from moving away along the shaft though.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Laidley, SE Qld
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    Default

    Maybe an old school taper pin?

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