Thread: Anyone know much about Rota Toolchests?

I have a similar one with the removable tray and front flap will snap a pic when I get too the workshop if someone doesnt first . I Bought mine from a printing press repair fitter who bought it when he moved from England in 1969.

I've left myself a reminder to get some pictures tomorrow Michael. It might be a busy day. No reason why not. The last 10 or so have been flat out. I am stuffed tonight because I spent a couple hours on the roof cleaning it and the gutters with a pressure cleaner. Takes a lot out of you to balance on a largely wet roof while squirting water every which way. I have to go to Mt Gambier tomorrow so it will be a more restful day, hopefully.

Dean

I did a little bit of repair work this morning. To explain the way it locks, the drawers all have a hook on the rear and there is a bar connected to the lid of the box that so that when the lid is down engages it with the hooks and the drawers can not be pulled forward. While it probably worked well from new with a lack of lubrication and a bit of abuse, the locking mechanism becomes a bit unreliable - if the drawers are pushed in when the lid is down the hook closes up, which then makes it harder to properly engage the bar; and repeat... As a result of this eventually the mount on the lid of the box had torn off. Today's fix was to TIG the part back on.
P1040289.JPG
(Weld prior to dressing back, although the flash makes it look extra lumpy).
My tool collecting friend has said that there is nothing wrong with painting it in original colours - only the most fastidous of collectors would object and as blue hammer tone and red is easily available, I'll probably give the drawer fronts and the exterior a coat to brighten things up.
While I had it apart I also put some grease in the tracks and on the locking bar, which has improved things remarkably. Small things like that are easy to forget on a day to day basis but I would suggest to anyone who has a tool box with slides (ball type or otherwise) to ensure they are occasionally lubricated

Michael

Pictures as promised.

100_2206 Cr.jpg100_2207 Cr.jpg100_2208 Cr.jpg100_2211 Cr.jpg

I fitted the clasp. It has a locking piece somewhere, maybe. I don't know why I fitted it or where it is. No handle on the tray of this one. This is pretty much the state it was in when I got it. It has a hinged front cover. This was covered in stuff last night. Actual measurements of the tray 488mm x 169mm x 70mm.

Dean

Thanks for posting Dean. It's the handle detail that I'm really interested in as the rest of the tray will be the same as the existing drawers. Among the other 'challenge to replicate' features on the one I have, the drawers have a raised section that will require a press tool to make. The Sidchrome version you have looks much simpler.

That one has had a hard life although I think with some effort it could be resurrected. The latch for the front required is referred to as a 'Cheney' latch/clip as they were made by Cheney in the UK.
Complete Cheney Replacement Parts Case Latch Suitcase, Music Case Fitting Box | eBay

Michael

I have a couple a standard flip open and my dads trolley one that canterlevers open. It's in good nic too other than a can of gasket cement spilt all over the top. I think I shall restore it as it was a great box for panel beating gear.

Originally Posted by Michael G

That one has had a hard life although I think with some effort it could be resurrected. The latch for the front required is referred to as a 'Cheney' latch/clip as they were made by Cheney in the UK.
Complete Cheney Replacement Parts Case Latch Suitcase, Music Case Fitting Box | eBay

Michael

Yes, you can vaguely see the mark on the front where the original latch part was. The one I fitted is huge in comparison. I do recall wondering whether it was the right thing to do due to the size. I think I took the piece off the front cover because it would not sit flat down on the benchtop. I still don't remember why I fitted that catch, but I must have had a reason for doing so. I can think of one place the rest of the catch may be hiding. I might have a look, remove the other bit if successful and unite them. Keys? If not with that other piece I don't see much hope there.

Dean

Originally Posted by Michael G

Can you post a picture or two of it with maybe a dimension or two?

Michael

Here you go Michael the dimensions are 482W x 175D x 70H the handle lays inside against the front edge and only the front and back edges are have a foldered edge on top, probably the same as the 3 other drawers.
Cheers

The bodging starts...
P1040316.JPG
(the handles and rear clip are in the tray)

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

The latch for the front required is referred to as a 'Cheney' latch/clip as they were made by Cheney in the UK.
Complete Cheney Replacement Parts Case Latch Suitcase, Music Case Fitting Box | eBay

Michael

I recently bought some latches like that from Home Hardware A/Springs they were about $5.00.
They did have that were dearer and looked better quality.

I picked up about a dozen for $1.00 each, obviously Chinese.
Kryn

I've got an old Rota box that belonged to my Dad, i'm not sure the vintage but it looks older than those in the catalog posted.

He did he apprenticeship in the 60s so my best guess is it's 60s/70s vintage. I'll have to grab a photo of it, it's a cantelever box but the top is rounded rather than the squared off examples in that catalog. There is pretty much no paint on it now but I do recall seeing some blue on it as a kid, so where it mentions "blue hammertone exterior, red enamel interior" that seems to make sense. I'll have to check if there is any paint on the inside.

Originally Posted by bollie7

I bought a brand new TC6 in 1975 for the princely sum of $45. Doesn't sound like much now but back then it was about $3 less tham my gross weekly pay as a 1st year apprentice.
peter

I got a TC12 about the same time, which I still have. It too made dent in the wage at the time.

To weld the drawer together I used my tong style spot welder. However, to get into the corners I had to make up a cranked electrode as otherwise I could not get close enough.
Method was copper bar on a V block and then using a hydraulic press to put a bend in; reverse and repeat. Shaping the tip can be done using a file but I prefer to do the rough shaping at least in the lathe. To hold it I had to make up a little jig. Semi successful as the grubscrew into the soft copper would slip, especially with the interrupted cut (I also offset the points from the tip centreline). Possibly next time a cotter type retainer is necessary or a support to take the side loads.
P1040334.JPG
Next stop is paint.
P1040336.JPG
(the curve in the handles was added using a bit of hammer work around a piece of pipe around the right diameter)
Michael

Excellent work as usual Michael, liked the way the copper tip was held in the lathe.
Kryn