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  1. #1
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    Default Bending "C" channel 90 degrees

    I have some thin gauge "C" channel steel I need to bend to 90 degrees into frames. Need to notch out the bend points, then bend it. Takes forever with tin snips. The edges are rolled and I wanna flatten them as I punch out the notches. This channel is about 1-1/2" square. Need to be able to stick the metal in, step on a pedal and stamp out the end with the notches in it, ready for bending.
    Then I need to bend it (very easy to do by hand, but I'm making LOTS of them).
    Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    my recollection of the properties of C-channel is that what you propose is a very bad idea.
    Ideally, the C-channel would be mitered at the appropriate angle, then welded into the frame with appropriate stiffening through the join.

    Edited to add:
    A cold cut saw is probably the "best" tool for cutting the miters.
    In combination with a jig to hold the material and the appropriate stops, it could become a relatively simple and importantly or you fast process.
    Last edited by ian; 28th Jun 2017 at 01:49 AM. Reason: added cold cut saw
    regards from Canmore

    ian

  3. #3
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    How about using a thin cut-off wheel in an angle grinder rather than tinsnips. You may even be able to make up a template for marking out or cutting to save some time.

    Michael

  4. #4
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    If I understand it correctly, this is some sort of roller door track with rounded corners?
    Channel.jpg
    (rounded on all three corner of this profile)
    Options I would consider is using thin cutting disks and a miter gauge or jig, maybe a cut-off holder for a small angle grinder likie this one:
    100-125mm Angle Grinder Cutter Bracket Support Holder Stand Dock Cast Iron Base | eBay

    How are you joinging the mitered corners? Welding or some other way?
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #5
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    Update to this post - The steel is 28 gauge. The frames are being used for enclosing rigid EPS foam board to form an insulated wall panel. The steel to make the panels are in 10' sticks and the wall panels are 7' tall. So, I cut an 8' piece and bend over 6" on both ends (this is the part I want to speed up).
    This is a PROTOTYPE of a small homeless shelter which is waterproofed and fireproofed during assembly.

  6. #6
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    Wow. that's only 0.4mm thick. I imagine cutting it with good tin sips in a single hand squeeze per cut would be the fastest possible way..... even a corner notcher would lake longer to line up than that...
    Like this one here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HN-3...608676503.html
    The only other - maybe slightly faster - method I can think of is to make a dedicated arbour press tool that cuts BOTH notches at the same time. Wouldn;t be difficult to make and small arbour presses are relatively cheap.... Commercial pres tools to do this start at over $1000 ..... (but they all have MUCH thicker cutting capacity).
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by USNRet View Post
    Update to this post - The steel is 28 gauge. The frames are being used for enclosing rigid EPS foam board to form an insulated wall panel. The steel to make the panels are in 10' sticks and the wall panels are 7' tall. So, I cut an 8' piece and bend over 6" on both ends (this is the part I want to speed up).
    This is a PROTOTYPE of a small homeless shelter which is waterproofed and fireproofed during assembly.
    I suppose after the Grenfell Tower disaster in London, I should say "good luck" with fireproofing the product.

    but back to your problem.
    You should be able to source the steel section in lengths as long as 48 feet, maybe a little more. Which would represent much less wastage. 48 feet is based on the standard North American "long trailer" being 53 feet long.

    I think a cold cutting saw teamed with a miter jig is the way to go.
    regards from Canmore

    ian

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    ...

    I think a cold cutting saw teamed with a miter jig is the way to go.
    I rather suspect that a cold cutting saw will just put a dent into the 0.4mm thick sheetmetal section..... and then maybe ripp it out of the jig and throw it across the shed...
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    I rather suspect that a cold cutting saw will just put a dent into the 0.4mm thick sheetmetal section..... and then maybe ripp it out of the jig and throw it across the shed...
    I think Michael is on the right track. Supposing the channel was supported internally by a drop-in support already cut to 45 degrees,the cut off saw would not grab as the adjacent cut lines would have support.

    The down side is that the other 45 leg would have to be cut and that means re adjusting the chop saw angle. Alternately ,do a bunch of Left hands and the swap to R hands.The support would be cut the shape of a trapezoid with 45 degree angles-maybe made from 1.5 RHS box and held in place by vice grips.

  10. #10
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    A thought - if you cut a notch that had one side 45 degrees and the other 90 (maybe a bit less), you could fold the section so that the '90' side slipped inside the mitred section where it could be secured with a spot weld or two.

    Michael

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Supposing the channel was supported internally by a drop-in support already cut to 45 degrees,the cut off saw would not grab as the adjacent cut lines would have support.
    do a bunch of Left hands and the swap to R hands.
    The support would be cut the shape of a trapezoid with 45 degree angles-maybe made from 1.5 RHS box and held in place by vice grips.
    thank you Grahame,
    regards from Canmore

    ian

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