Thread: Drill press speed optimisation

Here's a brief video of a belt tensioner I made for my Waldown bench drill several years ago.

It is very easy to operate and has proven completely reliable and trouble free.
BTW I fitted 3ph motor and VFD at the same time to solve my speed selection issues.
Here's a video of the drill pushing a 1" bit through 10mm MS plate

Richo, nice work, a bit rough though, no knob on the end. What happens when the belt stretches or is replaced with a slightly shorter belt? Is there any other adjustment available?
Kryn

Regarding the knob, I have no excuse - just laziness In addition to the over-centre action, there are actually 2 other adjustments possible for belt tension.Its a bit hard to see, but the front end of the other over-centre unit is slotted to give about 1" of adjustment.This was designed to be the primary method for setting the belt tension resulting from the over-centre action.For even more adjustment, the motor mount casting on the end of the radial arm could be moved further away from the quill.However, I think a belt change would be preferred rather than doing this.The new belt I installed when fitting the device in early 2012 is still running at a good tension and no adjustment has been needed so far.

NB: Should note that I make a practice of leaving the belt loose when the machine is not in use.

It's taken 4 1/2 years, but I've finally re-worked my Waldown - it is now a 12 speed unit with no gaps in the speed range (but basically the same range as before). All I have to do now is fix up a guard to fit (needs 'stretching' around 20mm)
DSCN8205.JPG
The motor and spindle pulleys are straight stepped pulleys but the intermediate is a two piece design and also has bearings in it. I've managed to juggle the sizes so that the belts have a uniform tension (no loose belts at certain speeds as Waldowns can do), and none of that annoying 'take all the belts off' to change for the high speeds.

Thanks to Kryn for finding the Al at a good price and to Eric for helping slice the stock to size.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

It's taken 4 1/2 years, but I've finally re-worked my Waldown - it is now a 12 speed unit with no gaps in the speed range (but basically the same range as before). All I have to do now is fix up a guard to fit (needs 'stretching' around 20mm)

The motor and spindle pulleys are straight stepped pulleys but the intermediate is a two piece design and also has bearings in it. I've managed to juggle the sizes so that the belts have a uniform tension (no loose belts at certain speeds as Waldowns can do), and none of that annoying 'take all the belts off' to change for the high speeds.

Thanks to Kryn for finding the Al at a good price and to Eric for helping slice the stock to size.

Michael

Impressive!!
I have 2 words - “Nova Voyager”.

https://www.carbatec.com.au/nova-dvr...10&SearchPos=1

On one hand, this seems my dream drill. (I use my drill press a lot, and I’m always changing belt position.)

On the other, it’s $3000, and still drills holes.

Pretty sure I’m getting one. One day.

I've had a vector drive VFD on my drill press (1.5HP motor and VFD) for a few years now.
I've been running the spindle between 150 and 1500 rpm mot of the time on the same belt position with no problems.
Even with prolonged low rpm drilling there has been no overheating problems.
I have changed the belt position only a couple of times during that period.

Echoing what Bob said. A VFD and 3 phase motor will set you back a lot less than $3000. You can even dispense with the intermediate pulley.

Originally Posted by jack620

Echoing what Bob said. A VFD and 3 phase motor will set you back a lot less than $3000. You can even dispense with the intermediate pulley.

I like the dispensation of the intermediate pulley.

Comparisons between a $120 VFD and say $200 3P motor to get variable speed , and with the $3000 Nova can be misleading.
The Nova also has almost twice the Quill travel and a bunch of other features that few standard drill presses.
Whether the the additional features are worth the the extra $$ is perhaps a separate question.

Originally Posted by BobL

Comparisons between a $120 VFD and say $200 3P motor to get variable speed , and with the $3000 Nova can be misleading.

Agreed, but if you don't have a spare 3K for the Nova the point is moot.

Also the Nova only can take bits up to MT2, seems sorta useless to me for that sorta $$$

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Given the choice, for that sort of money I would prefer to have a powered downfeed.

I think the Nova is primarily a woodworking drill.
Some of the features that really appeal to me (mainly metal work):
High speeds - for small drills.
Quick and easy speed changes.
Smooth running.
Electronic depth stop.

But I need a lathe first.

Originally Posted by skypig

I think the Nova is primarily a woodworking drill.
Some of the features that really appeal to me (mainly metal work):
High speeds - for small drills.
Quick and easy speed changes.
Smooth running.
Electronic depth stop.

It also has 2HP motor, no belts, a tapping assist function. 50 to 5500 rpm capability, digital quill position readout - all useful for MW.

But I need a lathe first.

Yep - lathe is pretty damned useful.

Tapping assist function

As an aside (Thread drift)

Any tips on holding a thread tap (M12 in this case) 4 side square, in a 3 jaw PD drill chuck?
I’m trying to ensure I tap “square” in my job.

I gripped it further down on the round bit, but it turns in the chuck.

I’m turning the chuck by hand - just using it for “square”.

The large keyless chuck with the jaws retracted on the back of the tap wrench is better than nothing…..

Originally Posted by skypig

As an aside (Thread drift)

Any tips on holding a thread tap (M12 in this case) 4 side square, in a 3 jaw PD drill chuck?
I’m trying to ensure I tap “square” in my job.

I gripped it further down on the round bit, but it turns in the chuck.

I’m turning the chuck by hand - just using it for “square”.

The large keyless chuck with the jaws retracted on the back of the tap wrench is better than nothing…..

I've removed the 3 jaw and used an MT3 ER32 collect chuck and collets for this purpose.
Beware there's no drawbar so tightening the tap in the collet can be tricky but there are ways.