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Thread: Drill sharpener

  1. #1
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    Default Drill sharpener

    I brought a drill sharpener on the weekend.
    It will sharpen up to a 38mm morse taper drill
    The drills are fillted into a 3 morse taper holder which in turn passes through a 100mm 4 jaw self centering Pratt chuck.
    The chuck is driven as two cams move it longitudinally and laterally.
    I re-synchronized the cams and sorted out a longer spring.
    It seems to working fine, however I don't have procedure for indexing the drill bit so I can grind a effective chisel point
    I'm hoping someone on the forum has experience with this kind of sharpener and can offer a method of doing this .

    Mark
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  2. #2
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    That's a nice looking bit of kit. I have a Darex sharpener myself and to get the chisel point the whole drill holder/ chuck is just rotated 180 degrees. How is the chuck rotated? Is it as simple as keep turning it until the drillis flipped over?

    Michael

  3. #3
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    Default Drill Sharpener

    The chuck is rotated continuously whilst it is clutched in via a PTO as seen in this photo no flipping.
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  4. #4
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    Another set of cams??

  5. #5
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    It looks similar in principle to a Brierley drill sharpener. Maybe a manual for that can be found to give a clue?

  6. #6
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    Thanks Nadroj I was unaware of Brierley sharpeners.
    After I read your reply, I had a look for Brierley manuals.
    They are available for 45 pounds, not a viable option.
    It may take a few drill bit sacrifice's but I will work out a procedure to index the drill flute to the cam.
    Of course as soon as the shapener was operational I wacked a drill bit in messed it up royally.
    Mark

    Mark
    I've become a tool of my tools.

  7. #7
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    The cams would be designed to form the trailing edge of the drill bit I would think although I don't understand the lateral movement. Does this cause pivoting at the front pivot point?

    Drill stick out would be critical. I don't think you would need cam action for the chisel point. Longitudinal anyway. Can they be disengaged?

    I have seen a large drill sharpener like this being used, but it was over 30yrs ago. I believe I have some drill bits that were ground on it. It was used to sharpen ordinary bits and also grind bits with a reduced diameter at the tip. These drills were used in rocker shaft drilling machines that drilled all the holes in the rocker shafts for Mitsubishi Astron motors. A total of 18 holes I think.

    Dean

  8. #8
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    It seems I misunderstood the question
    When you said indexing I thought you meant 180 between edges. I assume now you mean while setting it up and it has the cam that will grind both edges.
    Are there any marks to show you where in the rotation you setup the drill?(then you'll have to work out your height some how and were about at the limit of my knowledge, you may of course know all this already)

    Is the brown bar below the wheel for wheel dressing?

    Stuart

  9. #9
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    What I recall is a small tab that slid into a slot in the chuck to lock it in position and a seperate attachment of some sort to align the drill bit. I think the end of the drill bit sat on an edge. This machine had a 6 jaw chuck. Some details are coming out of the dim past.

    The cam was external and could be disengaged for grinding other things. It was used to grind reduced tip drill bits as I mentioned. Some of these tips extended a couple of mm while some extended maybe 8-10mm. I guess the cam was disengaged to grind these to length and the re-engaged to grind the point. The chuck was hand powered by a crank. The machine was floor standing and was bought specifically to supply the drills for the 2 drilling machines they bought for the contract they had. Later they bought 2 more for the smaller Colt motor.

    Then the government changed the tarriff laws so all these parts could be brought in from overseas. The company went from about 140 workers down to 12 when I left of my own accord in 1984 to move to Mount Gambier. I recall the big boss telling us that the material to make one rocker adjusting screw, which was imported from Japan (in 6m lengths), cost them more money to buy than Mitsubishi paid to have the fully made item delivered to their factory at Lonsdale from Japan.

    One of the toolmakers who used it was an Italian called Joe. When we had a big visit from Mitsubishi big shots from Japan, he kept asking why we were being hospitable to "Japs". We were shooting them in WW2 he said. Then an old "Pom" mentioned that "we were shooting your lot too mate". There were some real characters working there.

    Dean

  10. #10
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    Default Drill Grinder

    Yes Stustoys the arm below the grinder holds a single point dresser.
    The problem I have is there is no indexing marks anywhere.
    The story the seller told me is it came from the University of W.A. (Dose this sound familiar.)
    I synchchronized the two cams by matching the wear marks on the outside cam to the roller.
    Iv'e had a look at the promotional videos for Allcut and Knuth grinders which have similar configurations to mine.
    Both have indexing marks and use a swing in stop so the drill tip can be accurately located.
    This is seems to be the logical way for me to go.
    I would like be able to sharpen things such as center punches and scribers, but that's not possible without future modifications to increase range of movement then disengage the cam followers and lock the grinding head.
    Right now I will settle for sharpening my drills.
    So I think I will dig out my crappiest drills and grind them until I get one right and work from there.
    I have posted photos of the outside lateral cam looking through the spindle and chuck .
    There is a natural hollow in the cam that is easy to locate. I will use this whilst I'm doing my trial and error grinding.


    Mark
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  11. #11
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    Couldn't that be an indexing mark in the second picture?(above the right hand cam) The problem is one doesn't do you much good.

    How is the longitudinally movement controlled?

    I'm wondering if first off, grinding a piece of bar help? It would show you the last point that touches the wheel, the cutting edge has to come sometime after that. You might also be able to work out your stick out length.

    Good luck.

    Stuart

  12. #12
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    Default Drill Sharpener Alignment marks

    Well spotted Stustoys the two marks are on the cams.
    Alignment marks no doubt.
    I will photograph the inside cam when I take the covers off and investigate.
    Oldneweng the lateral movement is necessary to grind clearance.
    Stick out dose not need to be considered as the whole motor assembly is manually traversed towards the chuck and laterally if required.

    Mark
    Last edited by Poloris; 11th Mar 2016 at 11:28 AM. Reason: forgot to sign
    I've become a tool of my tools.

  13. #13
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    Oldneweng the lateral movement is necessary to grind clearance.
    Clearly this unit has a different working system to the one I am familiar with (sort of). That one had a cylindrical cam (2 lobes on end) that moved the chuck in and out. This provided the clearance.

    Thinking, thinking. As I mentioned, little bits are coming back to me. Now I remember the ocillating action of the chuck. I think I have it now. Rearmost movement of the chuck would line up with the least accute angle of the lateral movement in relation to wheel face. Would this be the point at which the cutting edge is in contact with the wheel? This should be at the drill edge angle. Just some thoughts.

    Dean

  14. #14
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    Default Drill Sharpener Adjustment

    I did some trial and error adjustment on the drill grinder Friday.
    I aligned to two marks on the cams.
    When I examained the chuck closely, I found a O mark on the edge of the chuck.
    I have a rudimentary indexing setup now.
    Then I ground a 5/8 bit with a torn up shank.
    The grind looked good but had no clearance.
    Another adjustment to the lateral cam will fix that up.
    The inside, longitudinal cam is visible on the first photo.

    Mark
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  15. #15
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    Default Drill sharpener sorted.

    I nutted out my problem with the two cams.
    The drill is rotated in a anti clockwise direction whilst being sharpened.
    To get the clearance angle I needed I advanced the lateral cam about 10 degrees and then rotated the drill setup position so the rear of the flute made contact with the grinder first.
    The drill flute is level as the grind finishes.
    Mark
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    I've become a tool of my tools.

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