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  1. #1
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    Default DIY angle plate question

    I have a project that I'm working on but one issue is tooling. One of the things I will need is an angle plate of a reasonable size – around 8" square. As it would only be used once every 12 months if that I did not want to purchase a new one (between $150 and $200 typically). I found a steel angle today for around the right price which is 200x200x220 with 30mm thick walls. Weighs close to 20kg.
    P1030377 (Medium).JPG
    The plan was to transform it into a suitable angle plate but as always when faced with a blank canvas, the question becomes one of what to do…


    My thoughts at the moment are to trim one leg to around 6" long (save some weight, make it easier to position) and take a cut from the faces (perhaps 3 to 5mm) to make it flat and thin it down as well. I was wondering whether to put slots on the faces or just drill and tap holes in a grid pattern (the short leg will need slots anyway to fasten down). Other options are to weld a web or two on to stiffen things up and even relieve the slots (or put a rebate behind the hole patterns) so the thickness is only say 15 to 20mm (again, reduce weight and save some stud length). For comparison if I bought a cast Vertex plate of a similar size it would be 20mm thick.

    Anyone have any ideas on good or bad features to have on angle plates; thoughts on how this one should be arranged or even alternative ideas? (The primary project will have a casting with a machined base on it which will then need to be held so that Z travel is parallel to the machined base. The horizontal does not have enough cross travel for this - oh for a HBM!)

    Michael

  2. #2
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    Hi Michael,
    I'd weld a couple of gussets on the end, just to make it a bit more stable, never now when a large casting is going to be mounted of it. By all mean trim one side down, to make better use of it, put a set of slots on both sides as that will allow you to bolt it down on both faces and drill/tap a series of holes in a grid pattern to suit your hold down studs, on both faces as well. Just drilling the holes will lighten it.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
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    Aug 2008
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    Michael

    I've had a slotted commercial angle plate for the best part of 40 years which you are welcome to borrow if that helps you. It's 8" long, one leg is 6" the other is 5". It's 7/8" thick.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    The horizontal does not have enough cross travel for this - oh for a HBM!)
    Told you to buy that S type in Adelaide....

    Anyway I've made a few of these. I don't bother welding in webs though it'd be a bit stiffer and less prone to vibration if you did. I regard my steel angle plates as sacrificial.

    No slots, just holes/tapped holes. If you don't want them fully threaded, drill part depth with a clearance drill. Helps to act as a tap guide anyway.

    Bolt it to the mill table with a bit of packing under the rough face, face off using whatever - a big fly cutter works well. Flip over, do the other face.

    Start drilling etc. When it's swiss cheese, make another. I bought a 1.5m length of heavy angle many years ago, still working my way through it.

    PDW

  5. #5
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    Mar 2014
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    Default

    I would defiantly weld a web to each end to stiffen it up. I can see what plate i have kicking around if you need some material for the webs. I cant really give you a recommendation on holes Vs slots, we have both at work and still cant get studs in the right spot.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Told you to buy that S type in Adelaide....
    I was just saying to someone today that if I had the space there are probably 4 or 5 machines I'd like to have. I'd then have to invent uses for them but isn't that half the fun?

    Quote Originally Posted by snapatap View Post
    I can't really give you a recommendation on holes Vs slots, we have both at work and still cant get studs in the right spot.
    I figured that Murphy would come into this question somewhere...

    One thing suggested was a vertical V groove so that round items can be held vertically rather than stuff around with V blocks. Interesting thought.

    Michael

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    I was just saying to someone today that if I had the space there are probably 4 or 5 machines I'd like to have. I'd then have to invent uses for them but isn't that half the fun?
    I usually buy machines to satisfy the requirements of a job I just kludged my way through with out it. Then I have the machine for the next time - which often never comes....

    BTW the S type has 600mm of long travel with the rear boring stay removed so there's lots of scope for creative fixturing on that nice flat table.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    One thing suggested was a vertical V groove so that round items can be held vertically rather than stuff around with V blocks. Interesting thought.

    Michael
    Yes, that's useful. I probably should see if I can find the tool I made to align my boat whisker stays with the bowsprit cheeks - basically a bit of heavy angle with a fabricated V block welded to it. I could clamp the angle leg without the weldment to the bowsprit cheek plate and the pipe whisker stay sat in the V block at right angles to the plate for welding. It worked really, really well. A more refined version (machined rather than just welded from scrap angle) could be a very useful tool for working on round stuff.

    OK I found some pix. This was made for a one-off so it's a quick & dirty job, but it did what I needed.

    PDW
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    I have one as well you could borrow

  9. #9
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    I would definitely NOT weld anything on the back of it, unless you were going to use it for some heavy duty milling where that strength and rigidity were important. On my angle plates I find they often get in the way, the welding will pull the plate out of square when they shrink and set up stress you'll need to relieve before you again had a stable angle.

    More often than not I find I'm clamping to my plates, indeed I can't think of any time I've used the slots. I'd probably leave it as is, and then drill holes in logical places as required. A hole pattern like a mini-pallet or oversized 1-2-3 block would probably be useful so you could fixture to it with small hold-down clamps. The vertical V groove is an interesting idea, I can't say I've ever seen that, but could be useful. With the hole pattern as described you could achieve the same effect by bolting on blocks, but would of course need to prove them each time they were installed.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    I would definitely NOT weld anything on the back of it, unless you were going to use it for some heavy duty milling where that strength and rigidity were important. On my angle plates I find they often get in the way, the welding will pull the plate out of square when they shrink and set up stress you'll need to relieve before you again had a stable angle.
    Yeah, I didn't bother. If you weld in webs, you have to do it first, heat/cool in a fire or similar and then mill, not mill then weld.

    A grid of M10 threaded holes does everything I've ever needed to do. Drill more as needed. If I was making another I might drill/tap for M12 simply because I have 2 or 3 M12 clamping kits and only 1 M10 clamping kit.

    I had some cast up many years ago, with the webs. Worked out OK as I made the web flush with the ends so you could stand the angle plate on end and have the faces at 90 deg. Don't think I've ever used them like that though.

    Shop made angle plates are just sacrificial tooling IMO. I use mine as weights, clamp fences for wood working while glue is setting etc etc. Then there are the other ones which are covered in Lanotec and wrapped up in bubble wrap and only emerge when I need a plate or square that's dead nuts accurate (thank you, machtool, for regrinding a bunch for me).

    PDW

  11. #11
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    Sep 2011
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    I have fabbed a couple with slots for one off jobs and after welding all the stays on ,I put them in a wood fire for a few hours , let then cool in dry sand .
    Machined on the mill , still sitting in the shop some where .

    I have collected some 1" plate to make one for the HBM , possibly use the same method to make it .

    Michael

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