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Thread: Lathe manual
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9th Feb 2016, 07:55 PM #16Most Valued Member
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I see in some of the manuals covering this style of lathe they mention using a power twist belt rather than taking the Headstock apart.
If possible put the details and size of the gears as previously asked for , some one here might even knock them up for you as love job.
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10th Feb 2016, 10:22 PM #17Intermediate Member
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Hi Phaser, your Hafco is very similar to my Lantaine with some small differences. I replaced my belt by removing the back gearset and the rear headstock bearing. I was able to squeeze the belt in through the rear headstock bearing space and then reinstalling the back gears and headstock bearing. It was not easy or ideal, but possible.
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11th Feb 2016, 08:44 AM #18Senior Member
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13th Feb 2016, 05:12 PM #19Senior Member
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Here is a drawing of the 40 tooth gear. The 120 tooth gear is 152.6mm diameter.
40T gear.jpg
P1030296.jpg
Not sure how to measure the teeth themselves, they're fairly small.
While I was doing this measurement I noticed something odd. The gears that are currently in place appear to be in the wrong orientation (according to the plaque on the machine)
P1030290.jpg
P1030293.jpg
Another couple of things I need to know.
What is the correct gear combination for cutting non metric threads ? The plaque doesn't mention this.
P1030294.jpg
and, When do I drop in the half nuts on the dial indicator for metric threads ? That's not mentioned either.
P1030292.jpg
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13th Feb 2016, 05:35 PM #20
The 120/127 tooth pair provide the ratio change for metric/imperial. I believe that the top (40T) gear can be reversed. The chart shows the gears set for metric. Yours appears to be set for imperial. Turn the top gear around as per the chart.
Dean
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13th Feb 2016, 06:46 PM #21Senior Member
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Thanks for your answer.
So ok if I've read you correctly, what you're saying is my machine is ready to go with imperial threads the way it is currently set up ?
and do you believe the top gear drives the 120 tooth for imperial or 127 tooth for metric ?
If that's the case, it solves one important question.
and yes I'm sure the top gear would be reversible, once I get it off that is because both 40T are stuck at the moment. Prob been that way for a long time.
I'll have to get my gear puller out.
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13th Feb 2016, 07:09 PM #22Senior Member
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The gear doesn't sit square to the large gear when its reversed.
P1030297.jpg
also, is it normal for these gears to be so tight ?
Even after a clean up I had to wind the gear on with its holding screw.
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13th Feb 2016, 09:54 PM #23So ok if I've read you correctly, what you're saying is my machine is ready to go with imperial threads the way it is currently set up ?
and do you believe the top gear drives the 120 tooth for imperial or 127 tooth for metric ?
and, When do I drop in the half nuts on the dial indicator for metric threads ? That's not mentioned either.
My top gear is pretty tight on the shaft. It needs levering off.
Dean
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13th Feb 2016, 10:18 PM #24
With a bit more research.
Your lathe may have a 127T/100T combo. I pinched this quote from a thread on The Home Shop Machinist forum.
The compunded transposing gears must convert 25.4 (25.4 mm = 1 inch) to a whole number (usually even). For 127/100, 100/127 x 25.4 = 20 for, 127/120, 120/127 x 25.4 = 24.
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13th Feb 2016, 11:45 PM #25Senior Member
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I thought about scratch test too. I will try it tomorrow.
The lead comes in right on 8TPI so it must be imperial. Stands to reason since the machine is 32 years old.
Your last answer about the dial indicator has made me see the light and now I understand. Thank you.
I couldn't get my top gear off by levering with screwdrivers, I had to use a puller, so I might try a light hone inside the gear and aim for a light press fit.
Do you know where I can get a chart showing thread depth of cut for imperial and metric ?
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14th Feb 2016, 01:51 AM #26
Does this help ?
<http://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm>Best Regards:
Baron J.
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14th Feb 2016, 09:21 AM #27Senior Member
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17th Feb 2016, 11:33 AM #28Senior Member
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Is there any reason why these two vernier dials are locked with a grub screw(circled) ?
It would be so much better if they were reset-able.
P1030302.jpg
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17th Feb 2016, 11:44 AM #29Most Valued Member
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I can think of a few but none of them important, if you want thumbs screws go for it, not like it will be hard to change back. I hope there is a soft slug under those screws so the shaft isnt all "dinged"
Stuart
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17th Feb 2016, 12:12 PM #30Senior Member
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The dials on the apron handle and the tailstock don't have grub screws and so they are easy to set.
I loosened the cross slide dial grub and found it a bit notchy to turn
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