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Thread: Lathe manual

  1. #16
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    I see in some of the manuals covering this style of lathe they mention using a power twist belt rather than taking the Headstock apart.

    If possible put the details and size of the gears as previously asked for , some one here might even knock them up for you as love job.

  2. #17
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    Hi Phaser, your Hafco is very similar to my Lantaine with some small differences. I replaced my belt by removing the back gearset and the rear headstock bearing. I was able to squeeze the belt in through the rear headstock bearing space and then reinstalling the back gears and headstock bearing. It was not easy or ideal, but possible.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    I see in some of the manuals covering this style of lathe they mention using a power twist belt rather than taking the Headstock apart.

    If possible put the details and size of the gears as previously asked for , some one here might even knock them up for you as love job.
    Ooh that would be nice. I'll measure the 40T and get back.

  4. #19
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    Here is a drawing of the 40 tooth gear. The 120 tooth gear is 152.6mm diameter.
    40T gear.jpg
    P1030296.jpg
    Not sure how to measure the teeth themselves, they're fairly small.

    While I was doing this measurement I noticed something odd. The gears that are currently in place appear to be in the wrong orientation (according to the plaque on the machine)
    P1030290.jpg
    P1030293.jpg

    Another couple of things I need to know.
    What is the correct gear combination for cutting non metric threads ? The plaque doesn't mention this.
    P1030294.jpg

    and, When do I drop in the half nuts on the dial indicator for metric threads ? That's not mentioned either.
    P1030292.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #20
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    The 120/127 tooth pair provide the ratio change for metric/imperial. I believe that the top (40T) gear can be reversed. The chart shows the gears set for metric. Yours appears to be set for imperial. Turn the top gear around as per the chart.

    Dean

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    The 120/127 tooth pair provide the ratio change for metric/imperial. I believe that the top (40T) gear can be reversed. The chart shows the gears set for metric. Yours appears to be set for imperial. Turn the top gear around as per the chart.

    Dean

    Thanks for your answer.
    So ok if I've read you correctly, what you're saying is my machine is ready to go with imperial threads the way it is currently set up ?
    and do you believe the top gear drives the 120 tooth for imperial or 127 tooth for metric ?
    If that's the case, it solves one important question.

    and yes I'm sure the top gear would be reversible, once I get it off that is because both 40T are stuck at the moment. Prob been that way for a long time.
    I'll have to get my gear puller out.

  7. #22
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    The gear doesn't sit square to the large gear when its reversed.
    P1030297.jpg
    also, is it normal for these gears to be so tight ?
    Even after a clean up I had to wind the gear on with its holding screw.

  8. #23
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    So ok if I've read you correctly, what you're saying is my machine is ready to go with imperial threads the way it is currently set up ?
    I could not say for sure, but that is my guess. It will cut imperial, but whether that gear combination is correct I don't know for sure. Be easy to do a scratch test on a shaft and check the pitch.

    and do you believe the top gear drives the 120 tooth for imperial or 127 tooth for metric ?
    With the gears set as per chart for metric, the drive is reduced by (120/127) or 0.9448. When set for imperial the 120T gear just transmits the rotation thru without affecting it. I guess this means you have an imperial lead screw.

    and, When do I drop in the half nuts on the dial indicator for metric threads ? That's not mentioned either.
    You cannot use the dial indicator for metric on an imperial lathe. You have to keep the half nuts engaged the whole time.

    My top gear is pretty tight on the shaft. It needs levering off.

    Dean

  9. #24
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    With a bit more research.

    Your lathe may have a 127T/100T combo. I pinched this quote from a thread on The Home Shop Machinist forum.

    The compunded transposing gears must convert 25.4 (25.4 mm = 1 inch) to a whole number (usually even). For 127/100, 100/127 x 25.4 = 20 for, 127/120, 120/127 x 25.4 = 24.
    Dean

  10. #25
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    I thought about scratch test too. I will try it tomorrow.

    The lead comes in right on 8TPI so it must be imperial. Stands to reason since the machine is 32 years old.

    Your last answer about the dial indicator has made me see the light and now I understand. Thank you.

    I couldn't get my top gear off by levering with screwdrivers, I had to use a puller, so I might try a light hone inside the gear and aim for a light press fit.

    Do you know where I can get a chart showing thread depth of cut for imperial and metric ?

  11. #26
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    Does this help ?

    <http://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm>
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Does this help ?

    <http://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm>

    Yeah that looks great. Thanks

  13. #28
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    Is there any reason why these two vernier dials are locked with a grub screw(circled) ?
    It would be so much better if they were reset-able.

    P1030302.jpg

  14. #29
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    I can think of a few but none of them important, if you want thumbs screws go for it, not like it will be hard to change back. I hope there is a soft slug under those screws so the shaft isnt all "dinged"

    Stuart

  15. #30
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    The dials on the apron handle and the tailstock don't have grub screws and so they are easy to set.
    I loosened the cross slide dial grub and found it a bit notchy to turn

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