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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    near Rockhampton
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    6,216

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    Well looks like I have the drop on Mark. I had to do something about my getting my shed extension done. It is all ready for the iron to go on.

    It is about 12 800 long and 11 000 wide. It was built using just stock items and fabricated from there. Purlins are C150 welded and fishplated together, and lifted up in one piece, marked for drilling then bought down and drilled, then put back up.

    For some odd reason I am feeling a bit stiff and sore. I might have to get some assistance to help put the iron on. So far it has just been me.

    20180425_135746.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

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    Nothing wrong with being a bit stiff Richard, but being sore is not so good. Perhaps a nice long soak in the bath might help. Great effort BTW.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    1,225

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    Looking good RC. I need to get cracking on my own shed extension, my planer is still sitting out side. I guess out where you are you don't need council approval and engineers reports. That my biggest holdup, green paint and camo net is starting to look like a good idea.

    I wonder how Marks shed project is going?

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

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    No need for council approval, you just do it.

    I got some sheets on this morning, but I am too stiff to do all that screwing. I have help coming in a couple of days to finish it off.

    Made up this iron lifter to get the sheets into an easier position to slide them on. I need to brace the ends as well, it gets a bit of a wobble up.

    20180427_071754.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

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    I imagine even having someone to drive the Hiab would make a big help RC, there must be a lot of clambering around as a one man band. Good to hear you have reinforcements coming, they will make a big difference.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    So we have had some rain and have finally stopped feeding sheep. At least for the moment. Crops have all failed so no harvest......but the silver lining is I have some time to get back to shed building.

    IMG_1362.jpg

    Post base plates have been cut out of 20-25 mm plate, drilled and then the position of the post to be welded to the plate has been marked on the plate.


    IMG_1377.jpg Used 2mm piano wire to lay out the position of the posts and then scribed/ground the position on the plates. This will allow the posts to be welded in the exact position on the plates.


    IMG_1393.jpg Then moved,leveled and bolted the big hacksaw in position. This a picture of it cutting a test piece. I cut it into 3 pieces so I could play with the welder settings and look at penetration etc.


    IMG_1399.jpg This is a picture of one of of a post being prepared for welding. The posts are 310UC158 (roughly 310mm square, universal column, 158kg per metre) which I brought second hand. Seven of the lengths are long enough to cut a single post out of. Unfortunately the other 3 require 2 or in one case 3 pieces to be joined to make one post. As the flange thickness is 25mm they require bevelling both sides before welding. Given the weight they are awkward to move and position. Each post will weigh over a 1000kg when finished.

    IMG_1402.jpg

    Another picture of the preparation at the end of the post segment prior to welding together

    Will continue in the next post

    Cheers

    Mark

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    IMG_1408.jpg


    IMG_1409.jpg


    IMG_1411.jpg here are some pictures of getting ready to weld the 2 sections together. I was going to do it today but it is blowing a gale and this shed is fairly open as you can see so would have been difficult.

    For those who may be interested I'm using a 3 phase 500amp Lincoln mig welder for this job with E71T-1M flux cored gas shielded wire and Argoshield universal (about 80% argon/20% CO2 gas mix from memory) gas. It deposits a LOT of metal quickly with good penetration. It's a very hot process so have had to use an 'asbestos' type glove on my L hand and a leather welding jacket to make it tolerable.

    When you are doing it yourself and everything is so heavy it can take a long time just to get things in position

    The guy who was going to help me developed a hernia and is still out of action till some time next year. It will definitely speed up once he is available again.


    Good work on your extension Richard. Look forward to more updates.

    Mark

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

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    Quote Originally Posted by markgray View Post
    When you are doing it yourself and everything is so heavy it can take a long time just to get things in position
    I know what you're saying - the keel shoe on my boat is 200 x 40 flat bar 7.6m long, welded up from 4 shorter pieces. Rolling it over after each weld layer was deposited got increasingly more difficult. In the end I had a couple of gantries set up with lever blocks to roll it.

    Quite interesting what you can do single-handed if you've sufficient rigging gear and no great time pressure encouraging you to cut corners on safety.

    PDW

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Hi Mark, i don't know whether you are welding your base plates on first or sitting the posts on them and then welding them, probably doesn't matter either way depending how you are going to stand them.
    When i put up columns i would put a nut or suitable packer/spacer in the centre underneath the base plate and adjust the nuts to plumb the column/post then fill the gap between the base plate and footing with expandite grout, this is the only way that i know of to get them all plumb and inline at the top, that is providing the steel is straight.

    For handling/turning the beams over i had spanners that consisted of 2" water pipe (maybe 6ft long) with a chunk of plate weld to the end with 2 slots cut into them, 1 slot would be inline with the handle (the 2" pipe) and the other 90 deg to that.
    You slide the required slot onto the flange and lever the beam over.

    cheers shed

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Hi Shed,

    You are right that getting the posts perfectly vertically aligned is very important. The plates have all been leveled using stainless steel packing plates. I have hundreds in various thicknesses from a few thou through to about 250 thou. Each plate is leveled and raised 5-10mm off the cement. You can then use wedges that you drive under each edge of the plate to fine tune this then grout underneath. Because each post is more than 6m high a small angle at the bottom means a large displacement at the top.



    As for turning the posts over they are just too heavy to move by hand so I use a sling and forklift to roll them over. The trestles they are on are a couple meters wide so I have plenty of room when rolling them.

    thanks

    Mark

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Mark your method will work but I think it is problematic, as you said a small change in angle at the bottom make a large movement at the top, by using the method that i suggested above you can very easily adjust the plumb with a shifter as the plate will pivot on the packer (maybe cut some 50mm dia bar stock 15-20mm) also when you grout them there will be no obstacles (shims) in the way,
    grouting is important and best if you dont have voids.

    Mix enough expandite to do one at a time as it can go off pretty quick, i would do this in a bucket, use gloves as it will take your skin off and use a bit of wood a couple of inches wide and thin enough to slide under the plate to push it/pack it all the way in, i used to trowel it off to a 45 deg down from the plate.

    sorry to be a nag, shed

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

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    I agree with John (Shed). I went one step further and fitted nuts under the plates too- one on each M16 stud. As I was a one man operation, it made levelling and plumbing the posts dead easy. Obviously it results in a larger void under the plates, but that made packing the grout in easier.
    Chris

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
    Posts
    633

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    In a previous life I worked erecting sheds, a 2-man team, UB portal frames, standard height was 6m at the eaves and the largest we did had a 48m clear span. The method we used to stand the posts plumb was to weld a 'dot'- the slug punched out by the punch & shear, not critical obviously but about 15mm round by 12mm thick works well- onto a piece of 5mm flat, about 50x50. This was placed in the centre of each pad and sheet metal shims were used to get them all level to <1mm. That provided a pivot for the base plates and the posts were plumbed by adjusting the nuts.
    Don't grout under the posts until the shed frame is complete, purlins and bracing included. I used to go around the bases once the frame was erected, back all the nuts off and then tighten them down evenly.

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Mark your method will work but I think it is problematic, as you said a small change in angle at the bottom make a large movement at the top, by using the method that i suggested above you can very easily adjust the plumb with a shifter as the plate will pivot on the packer (maybe cut some 50mm dia bar stock 15-20mm) also when you grout them there will be no obstacles (shims) in the way,
    grouting is important and best if you dont have voids.
    shed

    Thanks for all that Shed. I will have to give it some thought. That may be a better idea. The plates will be welded to the posts in the workshop so I could weld on a pivot then. The threaded sections that the plates will be bolted down to are 36mm threaded reo bar and the plate holes are only 40mm so can't move the plate much either horizontally or tilting.

    Each post will have the crane railing bolted between them. It's 24 inch I beam so once that is in place you won't be able to move the posts. I may have to reconsider the order I plan to do things. Their are so many things to consider especially with the crane that it does my head in sometimes. Its not the first shed I have built on the farm but compared to a normal farm shed this is much more technical and requires much more precision and much heavier materials.

    Oh well Rome wasn't built in a day

    Thanks

    Mark

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Time for another update. Progress has been slow but I continue to plug away. With the ongoing drought and summer heat I have been busy and its often too hot/windy to safely cut/weld/grind metal.

    IMG_1419.jpg Preparation of last post for welding

    IMG_1420.jpg The last post is welded from 3 sections. Takes time to get it straight.

    IMG_1426.jpg Then I cut a 15 degree angle on top of each post from the roof truss to join to

    IMG_1431.jpg The ten posts all cut

    IMG_1465.jpg Time start preparing the 'knee'to be welded to each post that the crane rails will sit on. Each needed some bracing then the holes drilled into the top to bolt the crane rails to

    IMG_1468.jpg This is a slow process of cutting,welding and drilling

    IMG_1473.jpg All ten 'knees' cut up ready to have the bracing welded in

    IMG_1474.jpg Various plates being prepared to be welded to the posts.


    The fabrication of the posts continues slowly. Hopefully in about two months they will be ready to stand in place. Then need to build the roof trusses and cut the crane rails to size and bolt it all together. The posts,roof trusses and crane rails by themselves is about 20 tonnes of steel.

    Will post more as it happens


    Cheers


    Mark

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