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Thread: My New Shed project
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15th Dec 2019, 09:21 PM #136
Yeah agree, the last shed I was in had it, it would only let in heat along with light of course.
Would rather use the lights and pay the bill than let in all that heat in.
I installed air-conditioning in my shed, but don't need to use it much because of the garage is under the split level house and is usually cool in the summer and warm in the winter.Using Tapatalk
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15th Dec 2019, 10:29 PM #137Diamond Member
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I'm not sure how much different the heat ingress would be having the light panels in the wall or the roof, but at a place I worked at years ago, they did put translucent panels high up in the walls, as well as cleaning and painting the walls and under roof Colourbond an off white colour and the improvement in lighting was absolutely amazing. No risk of anyone falling through it at some point either.
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16th Dec 2019, 02:30 PM #138Golden Member
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Hi Dave,
IMG_2033.jpg This is the grout I have used. You just make it into a flowable mix and pour it under the post plate. The plate has about a 10mm gap to the cement floor. I did drill a 40mm hole in the plate as well so I could pour grout from both near the center as well as from the edges.
IMG_2011.jpg I put some silicon down and used 40mm angle to make a 'dam''. Worked a treat.
As far as the polycarbonate goes there will not be any in the roof. Its a small section high up on the southern wall so no direct sunlight. Its 7.5m high at that point so can't imagine it will make much difference to the heat at ground level. There are no windows in this shed as trying to keep dust to a minimum so a bit of natural light wont hurt.
Thanks everyone
Mark
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16th Dec 2019, 07:33 PM #139
That's the stuff, clever idea using the hole, thanks for the idea.
I didn't realize it was mixed so runny. I've only worked with normal mortar mix where too much water ruins it like concrete.
I had planned on putting the bed down, putting the plate on and leveling it, then waiting for it to dry and do up the bolts.
Might go with your idea.Using Tapatalk
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16th Dec 2019, 08:39 PM #140
Hi Dave, Guys,
JMTPW.
When I put the baseplate down for my 75ft Strumech tower, I used and old cast iron barbell weight, about 3" in diameter and 3/4" inch thick, underneath in the middle. Then used the four securing studs to get the column trued up vertically. Afterwards I just trowelled concrete grout under each edge, ramming it in until I couldn't force any more under. After the grout had dried, about a week, I went round and nipped all four nuts up.
Note that the baseplate was a metre square and 5/8ths inch thick steel plate secured on four one inch whit studs with nuts and washers. I remember that I had to borrow a big spanner to tighten the nuts. Courtesy of Hargreaves, the local ship yard, now long gone, though the dry dock is still there and still in use.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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24th Dec 2019, 02:21 PM #141Golden Member
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Hi all,
Quick bit of heavy lifting before Xmas. Needed to move the Hydroptic 6 SIP jig borer off the truck and into the shed. Weighs about 7-8 tonne so slowly and careful lifted off the truck and moved into the shed. I needed to get it off so I could move the crane into the shed so I can work on it over the summer. The forklift is a 12 tonne Hyster that handled the job without problem. Had to make the 9Ft tyne extensions for the job. The jib borer is a bit dusty after the serious dust storms this summer but will clean up fine.
IMG_2037.jpg
IMG_2050.jpg
IMG_2053.jpg
IMG_2058.jpg Well balanced load!!
IMG_2061.jpg
IMG_2063.jpg In place ready to be cut to size and welded back up. This is a complicated task to get right but will see how we go. The older cranes make modern monobar cranes look downright flimsy.
Have a great Xmas break everyone
Mark
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31st Dec 2019, 11:21 PM #142Most Valued Member
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Thanks for the update Mark.
That Fork is a MONSTER, certainly will handle anything you're likely to throw on it.
Sort of looks lost in the shed too.
Hope next year is better for you and ALL the farmers.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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1st Jan 2020, 10:44 AM #143Golden Member
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Thanks Kryn,
Everyone certainly has their fingers crossed for rain. Its certainly getting pretty depressing out here.
The forklift is great. Will help me move everything into the shed except the big planer.
Its a bit hard to manoeuvre in the shed you can get there slowly.
Mark
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1st Jan 2020, 10:48 AM #144Golden Member
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Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice. Some have mentioned I should seal/paint/epoxy the shed floor to help reduce dust and to help keep it clean. I have had a bit of a look at the various options but it is somewhat bewildering given all the choices. Given that I have 300 sqm to do and don't want to break the bank has anyone got any ideas or has anyone used any of the floor sealing products.
Thanks
Mark
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1st Jan 2020, 11:09 AM #145Diamond Member
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I have done a fair part of my shed with a 2 part epoxy from paint supplies here in Adelaide. it isn't slippery and resists oil very well, i will take a pic of the tin when i am back down the shed. It defiantly makes a big difference.
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1st Jan 2020, 11:33 AM #146Diamond Member
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At work we use Wattyl Epinamel EB600. It holds up well in an industrial environment with forklift traffic.
https://www.ritepricedistributors.co...MaAimhEALw_wcB
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1st Jan 2020, 03:30 PM #147Most Valued Member
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You won't regret painting the floor. Its such an improvement over raw concrete.
I've put a single part polyurethane paving paint on the new shed floors I've done at home.
Its the "paving paint" in this link. Just over $200 for 20L and that was enough to do 3 coats on 90m2.
Tradepaints ? Tradepaints
I'm sure a 2 part epoxy would be more durable, but its also a lot dearer. I'm working on the theory of getting it all sealed up for a start, then I'll recoat any high traffic areas if/when required.
Preparation is the key whatever you use. I acid etched the new concrete after letting it cure for about 6 weeks.
Brickies acid (hydrochloric) about 1:10 with water, put it in a watering can and do a small area at a time (I found the 3x3m squares bounded by the expansion cuts was a perfect size) as you need to keep it wet until the acid stops fizzing.
Gave it a good pressure wash after the etching and let it dry for another couple of weeks before painting. Just rolled on 2-3 coats with a cheap roller.
Steve
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1st Jan 2020, 05:12 PM #148Intermediate Member
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The only problem that I can see with paving paint on a garage floor is the heat of the car tyres when you bring your favourite beasty home, and put her away (no - the car). The hot tyres melt into ordinary paving paint, and 'grow' onto the tyres as they cool - and next time you drive, a patch of your new paint goes with you. Try at tile of some sort where the tyres rest.
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1st Jan 2020, 07:30 PM #149Most Valued Member
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2nd Jan 2020, 05:35 PM #150Senior Member
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Hi Mark, utterly in awe of your efforts. I had my 162 sq metres coated with Epirez Supatuff FC just over 12 years ago .. still going strong, not attacked by anything I've dropped. Only scars are due to softness of the concrete .. I'd been told in that regard (concrete) two options: soft, no cracks, hard, cracks. Wish I'd opted for hard, the epoxy would likely have concealed/moved with hair cracks. Have to admit, no cracks, but plenty of scars. My choice of coating back then was between the Epirez & Wattyl CM. The Epirez was almost twice the price but a friend had used it & vouched for it's performance. Had a pro apply it coz a place I once worked at used to pay an 'epoxy bonus' .. meaning it can't be good, & I was/am old enough to want to hang on a bit longer.
Also I sealed the Colorbond walls to the floor using Sikaflex (tough but flexible) to keep mice, snakes & other small vermin out ..
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