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  1. #136
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    Quote Originally Posted by jatt View Post
    In my humble opinion having
    polycarbonate in the roof isn't the best. At the shop we have top 3rd of wall sheeting (about 7 sheets over 23mtr span from memory) on two sides.
    Yeah agree, the last shed I was in had it, it would only let in heat along with light of course.
    Would rather use the lights and pay the bill than let in all that heat in.
    I installed air-conditioning in my shed, but don't need to use it much because of the garage is under the split level house and is usually cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
    Using Tapatalk

  2. #137
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

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    Quote Originally Posted by jatt View Post
    In my humble opinion having
    polycarbonate in the roof isn't the best. At the shop we have top 3rd of wall sheeting (about 7 sheets over 23mtr span from memory) on two sides.
    I'm not sure how much different the heat ingress would be having the light panels in the wall or the roof, but at a place I worked at years ago, they did put translucent panels high up in the walls, as well as cleaning and painting the walls and under roof Colourbond an off white colour and the improvement in lighting was absolutely amazing. No risk of anyone falling through it at some point either.

  3. #138
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Hi Dave,

    IMG_2033.jpg This is the grout I have used. You just make it into a flowable mix and pour it under the post plate. The plate has about a 10mm gap to the cement floor. I did drill a 40mm hole in the plate as well so I could pour grout from both near the center as well as from the edges.

    IMG_2011.jpg I put some silicon down and used 40mm angle to make a 'dam''. Worked a treat.



    As far as the polycarbonate goes there will not be any in the roof. Its a small section high up on the southern wall so no direct sunlight. Its 7.5m high at that point so can't imagine it will make much difference to the heat at ground level. There are no windows in this shed as trying to keep dust to a minimum so a bit of natural light wont hurt.

    Thanks everyone

    Mark

  4. #139
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    Quote Originally Posted by markgray View Post
    Hi Dave,

    IMG_2033.jpg This is the grout I have used. You just make it into a flowable mix and pour it under the post plate. The plate has about a 10mm gap to the cement floor. I did drill a 40mm hole in the plate as well so I could pour grout from both near the center as well as from the edges.

    IMG_2011.jpg I put some silicon down and used 40mm angle to make a 'dam''. Worked a treat.



    As far as the polycarbonate goes there will not be any in the roof. Its a small section high up on the southern wall so no direct sunlight. Its 7.5m high at that point so can't imagine it will make much difference to the heat at ground level. There are no windows in this shed as trying to keep dust to a minimum so a bit of natural light wont hurt.

    Thanks everyone

    Mark
    That's the stuff, clever idea using the hole, thanks for the idea.
    I didn't realize it was mixed so runny. I've only worked with normal mortar mix where too much water ruins it like concrete.

    I had planned on putting the bed down, putting the plate on and leveling it, then waiting for it to dry and do up the bolts.
    Might go with your idea.
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #140
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

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    Hi Dave, Guys,

    JMTPW.

    When I put the baseplate down for my 75ft Strumech tower, I used and old cast iron barbell weight, about 3" in diameter and 3/4" inch thick, underneath in the middle. Then used the four securing studs to get the column trued up vertically. Afterwards I just trowelled concrete grout under each edge, ramming it in until I couldn't force any more under. After the grout had dried, about a week, I went round and nipped all four nuts up.

    Note that the baseplate was a metre square and 5/8ths inch thick steel plate secured on four one inch whit studs with nuts and washers. I remember that I had to borrow a big spanner to tighten the nuts. Courtesy of Hargreaves, the local ship yard, now long gone, though the dry dock is still there and still in use.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #141
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Hi all,

    Quick bit of heavy lifting before Xmas. Needed to move the Hydroptic 6 SIP jig borer off the truck and into the shed. Weighs about 7-8 tonne so slowly and careful lifted off the truck and moved into the shed. I needed to get it off so I could move the crane into the shed so I can work on it over the summer. The forklift is a 12 tonne Hyster that handled the job without problem. Had to make the 9Ft tyne extensions for the job. The jib borer is a bit dusty after the serious dust storms this summer but will clean up fine.


    IMG_2037.jpg
    IMG_2050.jpg
    IMG_2053.jpg

    IMG_2058.jpg Well balanced load!!

    IMG_2061.jpg

    IMG_2063.jpg In place ready to be cut to size and welded back up. This is a complicated task to get right but will see how we go. The older cranes make modern monobar cranes look downright flimsy.


    Have a great Xmas break everyone

    Mark
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #142
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

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    Thanks for the update Mark.
    That Fork is a MONSTER, certainly will handle anything you're likely to throw on it.
    Sort of looks lost in the shed too.
    Hope next year is better for you and ALL the farmers.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  8. #143
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Thanks for the update Mark.
    That Fork is a MONSTER, certainly will handle anything you're likely to throw on it.
    Sort of looks lost in the shed too.
    Hope next year is better for you and ALL the farmers.
    Kryn
    Thanks Kryn,
    Everyone certainly has their fingers crossed for rain. Its certainly getting pretty depressing out here.
    The forklift is great. Will help me move everything into the shed except the big planer.
    Its a bit hard to manoeuvre in the shed you can get there slowly.

    Mark

  9. #144
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Western NSW
    Posts
    543

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    Hi everyone,

    Looking for some advice. Some have mentioned I should seal/paint/epoxy the shed floor to help reduce dust and to help keep it clean. I have had a bit of a look at the various options but it is somewhat bewildering given all the choices. Given that I have 300 sqm to do and don't want to break the bank has anyone got any ideas or has anyone used any of the floor sealing products.

    Thanks

    Mark

  10. #145
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    1,225

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    I have done a fair part of my shed with a 2 part epoxy from paint supplies here in Adelaide. it isn't slippery and resists oil very well, i will take a pic of the tin when i am back down the shed. It defiantly makes a big difference.

  11. #146
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

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    At work we use Wattyl Epinamel EB600. It holds up well in an industrial environment with forklift traffic.

    https://www.ritepricedistributors.co...MaAimhEALw_wcB

  12. #147
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

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    You won't regret painting the floor. Its such an improvement over raw concrete.

    I've put a single part polyurethane paving paint on the new shed floors I've done at home.
    Its the "paving paint" in this link. Just over $200 for 20L and that was enough to do 3 coats on 90m2.
    Tradepaints ? Tradepaints

    I'm sure a 2 part epoxy would be more durable, but its also a lot dearer. I'm working on the theory of getting it all sealed up for a start, then I'll recoat any high traffic areas if/when required.

    Preparation is the key whatever you use. I acid etched the new concrete after letting it cure for about 6 weeks.
    Brickies acid (hydrochloric) about 1:10 with water, put it in a watering can and do a small area at a time (I found the 3x3m squares bounded by the expansion cuts was a perfect size) as you need to keep it wet until the acid stops fizzing.
    Gave it a good pressure wash after the etching and let it dry for another couple of weeks before painting. Just rolled on 2-3 coats with a cheap roller.

    Steve

  13. #148
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    72
    Posts
    26

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    The only problem that I can see with paving paint on a garage floor is the heat of the car tyres when you bring your favourite beasty home, and put her away (no - the car). The hot tyres melt into ordinary paving paint, and 'grow' onto the tyres as they cool - and next time you drive, a patch of your new paint goes with you. Try at tile of some sort where the tyres rest.

  14. #149
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Hobson View Post
    The only problem that I can see with paving paint on a garage floor is the heat of the car tyres when you bring your favourite beasty home, and put her away (no - the car). The hot tyres melt into ordinary paving paint, and 'grow' onto the tyres as they cool - and next time you drive, a patch of your new paint goes with you. Try at tile of some sort where the tyres rest.
    I definitely haven't had that issue with the polyurethane paving paint on mine. We're 1 min from the freeway and have had 45deg+ recently so the tyres likely won't get much hotter than that unless you're doing circuit work

    Steve

  15. #150
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Mt Pleasant SA
    Posts
    126

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    Hi Mark, utterly in awe of your efforts. I had my 162 sq metres coated with Epirez Supatuff FC just over 12 years ago .. still going strong, not attacked by anything I've dropped. Only scars are due to softness of the concrete .. I'd been told in that regard (concrete) two options: soft, no cracks, hard, cracks. Wish I'd opted for hard, the epoxy would likely have concealed/moved with hair cracks. Have to admit, no cracks, but plenty of scars. My choice of coating back then was between the Epirez & Wattyl CM. The Epirez was almost twice the price but a friend had used it & vouched for it's performance. Had a pro apply it coz a place I once worked at used to pay an 'epoxy bonus' .. meaning it can't be good, & I was/am old enough to want to hang on a bit longer.
    Also I sealed the Colorbond walls to the floor using Sikaflex (tough but flexible) to keep mice, snakes & other small vermin out ..

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