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Thread: Who made the Herless SM-1 Mill?
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22nd Nov 2015, 08:20 AM #16Golden Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
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- Melbourne, Australia
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- 843
Thanks 'Rusty',
Interesting about the quill. I can say that 'yoda' (as they call him at H&F Melbourne) has confirmed the machine is actually Taiwanese. The motor is Taiwanese, so without being definitive, that does seems to suggest it comes from there.
The quill:
P1110858.JPG
The 'not metric yet' thing is that my lathe is a 1941 South Bend 10L (it is shown in the pic in my initial posting). I've just got it back on its feet and purring after a year long strip, clean, and replace-what-needs-it-if-I-can-find-it, and filling and smoothing of the castings and paint etc. It does not do metric and I have not yet got as far as figuring an accurate means and cost effective means to do so (I could spend $500 US on the change gears ...), and I've not yet got to figuring how to make alternative stud gears for it with my current tooling. I reckon I'll be posting a few question on that at some stage.
At any rate, here is an example of something that wants replacing and is metric - one of the (cast iron) lead screw nuts.
P1110843.JPG
Toast!
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22nd Nov 2015, 05:50 PM #17Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,560
A few of us cut gears, so help should not be too difficult to get. The main thing you need is a dividing head for indexing around. Ewan (Ueee) has a 127 hole plate for a dividing head for cutting that all important 127t gear if you only have a semi-universal dividing head and can't manage differential indexing.
Michael
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22nd Nov 2015, 10:40 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Richmond
- Posts
- 214
Has the Southbend got a Norton box for threading or change gears? Also, sometimes the 63 tooth driver gear is a better alternative to the 127 follower for calculations to cut metric on imperial with only 0.005"/39.370" (1 metre) error
Maybe change the C.I nut to bronze. Has Hafco down there got spares? Can check up here if you like.
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23rd Nov 2015, 08:18 AM #19Golden Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
- Posts
- 843
Michael, thanks. I'll remember that.
Rusty, it has a gearbox not change gears. I've done some research into my options - including the 47/37 or 80/63 combos which seem reasonably accurate - but then it is figuring out how to 'somehow' insert that into the geartrain. Though with just a 38 tooth stud gear I could get to about 1% but that would mean cutting using the 4 TPI gearbox setting which people say to avoid on these boxes! Same for 19 teeth ... but that seems a bit small ...
For a leadscrew nut I am a bit on the fence as to whether it would need to be perfect or can suffer some inaccuracy - as long as the leadscrew itself is accurate then I would guess it'll be okay. Bronze? Yes - I wouldn't replace them with CI ones unless someone said it was a good idea!
Re H&F stocking parts, the guys down here said no - but I have recently emailed their sales depot just in case, and even if they do not, I get another lead.
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23rd Nov 2015, 09:49 AM #20Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Richmond
- Posts
- 214
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13th Jul 2019, 01:20 PM #21Golden Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 837
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