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Thread: Metal Bandsaws.

  1. #16
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    How often are you planning to do this? If its just one or two cuts, grab the angle grinder and be done with it. Doesn't take that long... From memory, you have a mill that can be used to square up the ends, if not a lathe?

    Otherwise, if you're looking for a regular solution, a cordless bandsaw with a fabricated stand would probably do the job, if you already had the bandsaw, and let it cool down a few times during the cut. Don't think I'd buy one just for that purpose though.

    Power hacksaw or small horizontal bandsaw are the best options for that sort of job, if you're buying gear specifically for it.

  2. #17
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    Thanks for your replies, a lot interesting information here.

    My reasons for the Milwaukee was because I already have the batteries, chargers etc, and it is smaller, so easier to store in my over crowded shed and is portable.
    I dont know anyone in my area that has either a bandsaw or hacksaw.
    I have a cutoff saw but the sparks are a problem, and when the wife is on night shift I can't use it.
    Basically I want to be able to cut thick plate and large solid bar.


    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by wm460 View Post
    .....................................
    Basically I want to be able to cut thick plate and large solid bar.
    And you have a lathe and a mill. Meaning that over the years you will cut quite a bit of thick plate and bar. A 6x4 bandsaw is what you need, like the H&F BS-4 or BS-5. It can be used horizontally or vertically. It is strong enough to cope with large cuts. If you spend some time aligning it, it will cut straight and orthogonal to a surprising accuracy. And it can do so alone, whilst you do something else. Chopping off a 100mm steel round can take a while, I guess a quarter hour or so. But it can cut off washers only 2mm thick from that bar, and they will be within 0.2mm thickness if all is really well aligned. Its by far the most sold small metal bandsaw worldwide, made nonstop for 40 years in a row, first in Taiwan and then in China. In a hobby/home shop it will outlast you. It is not portable, but light enough to be stowed away when not needed. Its a very low cost basic saw, but you can start using it as is. Over time most people add their mods, like clamping features, coolant systems, automatic downfeeds...... Its base is crap, much too thin and light. You will want to make your own base. I mounted it on a small steel cabinet on wheels. There are forums dedicated only to this saw, with plenty of sample modifications. It is really very popular among home/hobby machinists. Blade size is easy to source too. Believe me, after owning it for a couple months you will not understand how you could do without before. And after 10 years, you will like me say this bandsaw is one of the ten best buys you made in your life.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post

    If you do decide to go that way I can put you on to a vendor of some quality brand 4 x 6 saw bi metal blades for $23 something + post each that I ordered at the beginning of the month.
    I am trying to find some replacements for the stock cupboard at the moment. I am not having much luck. I wouldn't mind that info if you don't mind Grahame.

    Cheers

    Dean

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I am trying to find some replacements for the stock cupboard at the moment. I am not having much luck. I wouldn't mind that info if you don't mind Grahame.

    Cheers

    Dean
    Too easy

    http://www.unitedproducts.com.au/

    Usual disclaimer - no connection other than being a happy customer.
    They pointed out that a .6mm The thinner blade would suit the 200mm wheels better than the thick one.
    Very happy with price and service.

    Grahame

  6. #21
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    I use this mob.

    http://www.mcdivensaws.com.au

    Hooroo.

    John

  7. #22
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    About my oblique reference to the small bandsaw wheels.

    The reference above to the 200mm wheels ( that's in the 6x 4 horizontal saw) was to highlight that the thinner section blades .6mm (.025" to non metrics) go around the small (by comparison to other band saw) wheels and are less likely to crack at the weld joint.The other option for 12.7 wide blades is .9mm (0.035") thick blades.

    I am advised by the bandsaw blade vendors that this .6mm option was the way to go for bandsaws with smaller wheels. I thought the opposite and was wrong. I must say though, that the current band saw blade (with crack in the start of the weld) still continues on.

    I am a champion of bi metal blades-Mine is 18 months old and used 3 - 4 times a week on mainly stainless.

    I purchased the pair of new blades in anticipation of a break but old faithful still cutting through 38mm s /steel solid on occasions.

  8. #23
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    Thanks Grahame and John.

    My previous blade was fitted, from memory (it's written on the saw) in April 2012. Judging by the chips it has done a fabulous job. It was going a bit slow at the end tho. I do use coolant tho. I have been watching James Kilroy videos about making a "Foggless Coolant Mister". I am wondering about using one of these on the lathe, mill and bandsaw.

    What other members have experience with these?

    Dean

  9. #24
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    About my oblique reference to the small bandsaw wheels.

    The reference above to the 200mm wheels ( that's in the 6x 4 horizontal saw) was to highlight that the thinner section blades .6mm (.025" to non metrics) go around the small (by comparison to other band saw) wheels and are less likely to crack at the weld joint.The other option for 12.7 wide blades is .9mm (0.035") thick blades..
    FWIW tThe Milwaukee blades are bimetal 0.020"

  10. #25
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    I have been using my bandsaw today and I thought I would contribute the following comments.

    My BS is the H&F BS-5 model from 2007, it looks different to the BS-4 referenced above.

    Mine works OK for a hobbyist but a smaller one that I have had occasional contact with in a club workshop, in appearance similar to the BS-4 referenced, did not operate at all well.

    Mine has some challenges, but the smaller unit I tried was unusable.
    It could be that the club environment means the BS is always in a fault condition that could be corrected in a personal shop.

    Before you purchase a BS, try and get some comments from someone operating an identical model.

    John.

  11. #26
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    One thing I noticed is that H&F dont give the the foot print size, this will be a major consideration in my shed.
    I guess it is really a choice between the BS-4A or the BS-5S

    Only one person I know that has a band saw and he is way down south, should have had a better look when I was visiting Kryn.

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by electrosteam View Post
    I have been using my bandsaw today and I thought I would contribute the following comments.

    My BS is the H&F BS-5 model from 2007, it looks different to the BS-4 referenced above.

    Mine works OK for a hobbyist but a smaller one that I have had occasional contact with in a club workshop, in appearance similar to the BS-4 referenced, did not operate at all well.

    Mine has some challenges, but the smaller unit I tried was unusable.
    It could be that the club environment means the BS is always in a fault condition that could be corrected in a personal shop.

    Before you purchase a BS, try and get some comments from someone operating an identical model.

    John.
    There are subtle but in my opinion important differences between the 6x4 bandsaws made in Taiwan, and those made in China. Not only fit and finish. You only see these differences when comparing close up.

    Hare&Forbes has it in three models. The BS4, the BS5 and the swivel base BS5S. The BS4 and the BS5 look identical from a few meters away. The BS4 is a copy made in China, the BS5 and BS5S are the real thing made in Taiwan. When I bught my BS5 10+ years ago, H&F had them side by side in their showroom. I was very happy to pay the extra $50 for the better made Taiwanese saw. Especially the blade guide blocks were very different, better finished and easier to adjust on the Taiwanese BS5 original. From far away, the chinese BS4 can be recognised by the motor pulley cover made from metal. The Taiwanese BS5's have plastic covers.

    On the current H&F wesite, the Taiwan made BS5 is not anymore listed. They now have a BS4A which looks like it is the former Chinese BS4 model with an improved automatic stop switch, and the BS5S which looks still Taiwanese. And a completely different new model the BS5V which I know absolutely nothing about.

  13. #28
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    Hi Mark, would you like some pics of my unit and mods???? Last couple of editions of MEW have some tips on upgrading the BS. Band Saw not the other!!!!!!!
    As there seems to be a lot of questions asked and answered, wondering if there could be a sub forum on this, would save a lot of hassles for the members wanting more details on this subject??
    Could have photos etc of mods done, hints etc.
    Kryn

  14. #29
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    Grizzly have a G0622 which is the 4 x 6 model.

    The manual

    http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0622_m.pdf
    Its downloadable and printable.


    Gives the footprint as 38 x 16 inches,whatever they are ?

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