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Thread: Metal Bandsaws.

  1. #1
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    Default Metal Bandsaws.

    How do you cut thick solid bar 2"-3"thick?
    A bandsaw would be nice but I don't have one.
    Can you make a band saw out of a portable 18v cordless bandsaw?

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  2. #2
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    Without seeing the saw it hard to say.
    The horizontal band saws that will do a 3" cut start at 1/3 hp.Is the 18V motor equivalent or better to a half HP motor? I wouldn't think so.

    If suitable the saw needs to be fitted into a frame to enable it to pivot.

    Then there's the matter of of setting up the feed mechanism.

    If its a one off getting the cut done commercially will be cheaper.

    Grahame

  3. #3
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    this is the saw I was thinking of.

    http://www.google.com.au/aclk?sa=l&a...1200_a_7c81362

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

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    wm, if you are looking for something cheep and small then this might be more suitable for your needs http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1000Watt-...item4d34addd4c

    shed

    or http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B002

  5. #5
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    I had a look at some U tubes and from what I can find it does cut up to 3.5"in pipe.There was no solid round that I noticed being cut in any u tube for this model saw.

    That solid cut application may be a different ball game, given you are holding the saw up keeping it square,for a couple of minutes, while it chews its way through a lump of solid.

    The thought of dancing around with this saw as a couple of a couple of kilos of offcut is falling towards my feet does little for me as well.

    I am not saying impossible , but merely urge your actions to be on the side of extreme caution..

    Grahame

  6. #6
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    One thing you need to be aware of is, if you want the blade to last in steel the speed of the blade must be SLOW.
    Slow means around 100 surface feet per minute which is around 1/4 speed on that saw.

    Thus any demos or vids showing the saw cutting fast are misleading because a couple of cuts at high speed means a new blade.
    If you are in business you might be able to write off the cost of blades to the job at hand otherwise the slow band speed means that cutting will also be slow and as others have said if you can hold a 7kg tool steady for long enough to do those cuts you are pretty good.

    The best part about horizontal cutting metal cutting is the start and go do something else.
    The other benefit is the square cutting reduces clean up time on the cuts.

    for the cost of a new portable you could easily get a used metal cutting horizontal BS.
    Mine cost me $100, 4 years ago and is still going strong.

  7. #7
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Without seeing the saw it hard to say.
    The horizontal band saws that will do a 3" cut start at 1/3 hp.Is the 18V motor equivalent or better to a half HP motor? I wouldn't think so.
    It's a 900W electric motor Graeme so with about a 70% motor efficiency it's about 0.85HP at the drive wheel.
    However - for the blade to last the motor cannot be run at full speed/power and as I said in my post above the motor will need to be run at around 1/4 speed to last for a reasonable period. How this speed reduction translates to power drop is difficult to say but with a brushless motor it probably still has plenty of torque at quarter speed.

    I notice there is also a portable stand for it
    http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accesso...ing/48-08-0260

  8. #8
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    I find it interesting that portable, mains-powered bandsaws seem quite common in the US, but unheard of here, except for the 18V Milwaukee - they don't offer their mains unit here. Seeing some of the Youtube vids of people using them, they often seem like a much nicer option than an abrasive cut-off disk on a grinder, and typically exhibit decent cutting speeds. I'm looking at jumping over to the Milwaukee system once my Hitachi batts die, and that little portaband is high on my list of toys.

    That said, for 2-3" solid stock, a conventional stationary unit is the tool for the job.

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    Perhaps if we knew more about your proposed applications for your saw ,we would be able to help your better.If you can post a few more details that would be great.

    Well it certainly appears the Milwaukee can do the job given Bob's caution about the fps rating of the blade.

    It is hard to tell what the optional Milwaukee stand is made from and I missed the cost but would guess it was not cheap. Did you notice there was no warranty on it- that must be from an American website - I don't think something like that can be sold here without a warranty.

    Another pathway if you are a bit handy - is to fab up one yourself.

    And bearing in mind Bob's comments about a cheap horizontal band saw,it may be a very good choice as once you have sorted out the annoying little minor faults ,you have a unit that cuts 4" x 6" and dead square once you sort the blade and guides.I say that because you may be cutting stock for the lathe and minimum saw cut means less to face off run out.

    I have a 4 x 6 horizontal myself and prior to owning it vowed and declared I would never need one.


    So, just quietly so the rest of em won't hear I was wrong.

    If you do decide to go that way I can put you on to a vendor of some quality brand 4 x 6 saw bi metal blades for $23 something + post each that I ordered at the beginning of the month.

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    By the time you buy the unit and battery and charger you are up to the price of a "proper" bandsaw, new, and as Bob says, they are available second hand for a good deal less.
    If it is a one off job you would be better to pay someone to cut it for you, or if you are lucky you might find a nearby Forumite who will volunteer to do it, if you weren't so far away, I'd do it.
    I can see that little bandsaw would be handy for many onsite jobs where we would now use an angle grinder, or even a hacksaw if you didn't want the noise and sparks etc.
    Regards
    Bradford

  11. #11
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    If it does not have to be portable, the cheapest recommendation has to be the BS-4A from H&F. Its the one I have had for the past 10+ years. Get a bi-metal blade with it. There is plenty of online support for this saw. It is the best value metal bandsaw there is.

    If you can afford it, I highly recommend you go one step up for the BS-5S. Same saw, but with the very useful swivel base. If I could go back in time, even remembering that money was tight, I would in hindsight most definitely go for the BS-5s. It makes angled cuts much easier. And I have found that every third cut that I made is somehow angled.

  12. #12
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    I find it interesting that portable, mains-powered bandsaws seem quite common in the US, but unheard of here, except for the 18V Milwaukee - they don't offer their mains unit here. Seeing some of the Youtube vids of people using them, they often seem like a much nicer option than an abrasive cut-off disk on a grinder, and typically exhibit decent cutting speeds.
    My relatives in Europe use these mains and portable bandsaws, and bigger ones with petrol powered motors mainly for roof frame construction jobs.

    It is hard to tell what the optional Milwaukee stand is made from and I missed the cost but would guess it was not cheap.

    The stand weight 35lbs so it is unlikely to be plastic although it may have some aluminium.
    What I like about the stand is the height so there would be less bending over than usual although the though of having to support a 3" diameter bar at that height is a bit of a worry.

  13. #13
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    The height factor is point to note with BS4A saw as well.

    The supplied BS4A stand is next to useless unless you are extremely short. The original stand can also tip over in certain situations so a taller purpose built stand is warranted.

    The fabbed stand that my BS4A moves on lockable swivels and extended in such a way that tipping the arm up quickly won't make the motor overbalance and topple the stand.

    Yahoo has a website on 4 x 6 bandsaws.You need to sign up.Its free though and the info is priceless.

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    Hi Mark, I'd go for the vertical bandsaw option, you won't be sorry. That cordless looks as if it won't hold sort bits, where as the other can be set up to do it. As some one else said set it going and do something else, a 50mm diam solid bar would take about 10 mins with a well used blade DAMHIKT, I wouldn't like to hold the other for to long. Being vertical, is great for trimming, notching, sheet, rhs, flat bar. I get about 6 months out of a Bimetal blade I run 14 and 24 TPI, blades are available virtually anywhere off the shelf, not so sure about the other, probably have to be specially made, which could be a wait of 1-2 weeks, plus another week for Australia Post to do their bit to get it to you in Ten ant Creek. Have several articles on upgrades for it when/if you are ready, will post them up to you.
    Regards
    Kryn

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    I was having a good look at one of those portable milwaukee bandsaws the other day. They look great, but like has been mentioned above the practicalities of holding one for any appreciable time just rules them out for most jobs. I still use my BS-4A all the time - and it is just such a great piece of gear given the price. I also built a new stand for mine - to give height (same as my other benchtops), stability (to stop it flipping over when upright) and mobility (locking castors - same as Graham). Mine is a minimalist version, but it works - a couple of pics at the start of this: http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=136989
    - Mick

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