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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Gloucester UK
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    I use Zirconia belts for metalworking. They are very effective and last reasonably well.

    Here is a UK source but no doubt they are available worldwide.

    http://www.abtec4abrasives.com/100mm...belt-532-p.asp

    Roger

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    Have to agree with Ewan. The newer ones are absolute crap. Drive wheel machined off centre to the casting and the centre axle hole bored off square to the face and circumference. So they are out of balance, wobbles and run off centre. After 3 years or so I still haven't used mine. I have bored out the centre of the casting and fitted a new centre bush to fit the grinder. It is now hopelessly out of balance. One of these days I will try and obtain some mag wheel adhesive balance weights and try and balance it.

    All I can say is 'buyer beware' and look at the alternatives.

    Ken
    Sorry about that bit of misinformation! I shall give myself an uppercut!

    I shall count myself lucky that I have an older Multi tool, then.

    The new MT drive wheels must be from the same mob that made my 6x 4 bandsaw wheels as I got them with a wobbly boot in them (thanks H &F).

    Yes a new attachment for the old girl would be a real good thing.

    It is a really sad thing to see many of the good tools and machines we knew and trusted, now being corrupted under the same brand we knew and once trusted.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Kyabram. Vic
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    Grahame,

    Don't beat yourself up too badly; a light tap or 2 should be enough. When I bought mine I went by their good reputation. Sucked right in.

    There is a thread on the forum about the problems with the rubbish. One member was on his 3rd (I think) drive wheel under warranty; and it was no better. I think that he gave up in the end.

    Ken

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    Sydney
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    46
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    121

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    The MT machines look the goods however for the price + the grinder it seems that a lot can be had with other dedicated machines(more heavy duty as well) and I do like the idea of a larger Disc sander. This is just from what I have seen is available on the H&F website. Certainly the zirconia belts look the goods for metals.

  5. #20
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Norton Blaze are the best belts money can buy for steel, the green ceramic belts come 2nd. The knifemakers consider zirconia to be good for handle shaping and not much more.....
    Unfortunately i have only seen the blaze in 2" wide belts, Gameco stock them in 48" and 72", i think gasweld or total tools has them too.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #21
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    I have two disc setups, the 6" on multitool than I never use and the other with the 12" disc on the 150 x 1000 mm variable speed Linisher that I have used maybe half a dozen times in the last year.
    There's several things I don't like about discs,
    The first is the variable speed from inner to outer parts of the wheel producing different sanding rates.
    Then it's trickier to touch up small stuff, with a grinding wheel or a the wheel on a belt sander you can get in close and still see what is going on.
    Neither belts or disc will hollow grind on their flat surfaces and if anything produce a rolled edge if any sort of pressure is applied.

  7. #22
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    Mar 2014
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    Hi Guys,
    I have bitten the bullet and purchased the 12 inch woodfast disc sander. It fits nicely on my little bench between the small bench grinder and bench drill. newbie question but what's involved in changing the disc paper?
    Thanks

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxi77 View Post
    .. . . . .what's involved in changing the disc paper?
    Thanks
    The standard way is ti contact cement the disc on so a bit of heat from a hot air gun will soften that.

    You might want to consider going the hook & loop route that way you can more easily change the paper. I have this on the big disc 0 haven't used it much but it sure is handy when you need it.

  9. #24
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    Thanks Bob! appreciate it. That makes sense, i figured it must be some kind of glue. The hook and loop method seems the go. Is it worth gluing some thin rubber on the platen for use when sanding metal to help avoid tearing the paper which I assume its for as educated by previous post the differences between metal and wood sanders?

  10. #25
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxi77 View Post
    Thanks Bob! appreciate it. That makes sense, i figured it must be some kind of glue. The hook and loop method seems the go. Is it worth gluing some thin rubber on the platen for use when sanding metal to help avoid tearing the paper which I assume its for as educated by previous post the differences between metal and wood sanders?
    The hook and loop arrangement adds some flexibility and that seems to be sufficient to take care of that. Of course if yo push it hard it will still tear.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    ........ The knifemakers consider zirconia to be good for handle shaping and not much more.....
    .............
    I think they must be thinking of something else.


    Abrasive type: Zirconia. Ideal for use on all types of steel including stainless steel and for quick removal of heat sensitive castings or forged parts.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxi77 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    I have bitten the bullet and purchased the 12 inch woodfast disc sander. It fits nicely on my little bench between the small bench grinder and bench drill. newbie question but what's involved in changing the disc paper?
    Thanks
    Hi Maxi, I have the Woodfast as well fitted with the hook and loop. Unplug the unit from the power first.
    The old paper is taken off by removing the table, then the paper and replacing it with the hook. Assemble with the loop paper and then refit the table.
    I bought mine from the Sandpaper Man, listed on the side here.
    When you go to replace the disc, I used an opaque flexible cutting board, rounded at the bottom, same diameter as the disc, then slide the flexible board between the disc and the loop, rotating the disc by hand as you go, it comes away after about 1 revolution. Putting the loop back on is the reverse procedure, lining up the loop with the disc, hence the opaque cutting board, and rotating the disc, pulling out the cutting board as you go.
    Hope this helps.
    Kryn

  13. #28
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogprov View Post
    I think they must be thinking of something else.
    They might tell you that on the site, and maybe once it was true but ceramic grit is now far better for steels. It is not as "sharp" as the zirconia but cuts just as well and lasts far longer. It is of course more expensive too.....
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Hi Maxi, I have the Woodfast as well fitted with the hook and loop. Unplug the unit from the power first.
    The old paper is taken off by removing the table, then the paper and replacing it with the hook. Assemble with the loop paper and then refit the table.
    I bought mine from the Sandpaper Man, listed on the side here.
    When you go to replace the disc, I used an opaque flexible cutting board, rounded at the bottom, same diameter as the disc, then slide the flexible board between the disc and the loop, rotating the disc by hand as you go, it comes away after about 1 revolution. Putting the loop back on is the reverse procedure, lining up the loop with the disc, hence the opaque cutting board, and rotating the disc, pulling out the cutting board as you go.
    Hope this helps.
    Kryn
    many thanks Kryn,
    I assume this is the technique for best installing and removing the H&L disc. Atm I am making a more accurate and better fitting T-slot slide piece for it that I can lock down in the t slot.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxi77 View Post
    many thanks Kryn,
    I assume this is the technique for best installing and removing the H&L disc. Atm I am making a more accurate and better fitting T-slot slide piece for it that I can lock down in the t slot.

    Yes. that is how I remove and replace the loop disc.
    I don't use the T slot, as if it's set for a ?degree, unless the table is perfectly parallel to the disc and the disc is dead flat it will be out. My disc had about 3 mm wobble in it, got a friend to machine it, ruined 2 carbide tips.
    Kryn

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