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Thread: metal adhesive

  1. #1
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    Default metal adhesive

    gday you blokes - had a piece break off the table saw this morning it is one of four lugs that blade insert bears on - these are a part of the top casting which is aluminium now its a little rattly bearing on only 3 - set screws adjust the height to keep it level and flush with the top wondering if there is a decent product that will hold the broken bit in place perhaps the one that i have seen a video on that can hold engine bits together? - it is a two part operation where a filler is added then a catalyst sets off - although in this situation it might be a tricky situation to hold the sandy stuff in placed till the catalyst goes on any and all suggestions most welcome
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  2. #2
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    Default Metal Glue

    Quote Originally Posted by old_picker View Post
    gday you blokes - had a piece break off the table saw this morning it is one of four lugs that blade insert bears on - these are a part of the top casting which is aluminium now its a little rattly bearing on only 3 - set screws adjust the height to keep it level and flush with the top wondering if there is a decent product that will hold the broken bit in place perhaps the one that i have seen a video on that can hold engine bits together? - it is a two part operation where a filler is added then a catalyst sets off - although in this situation it might be a tricky situation to hold the sandy stuff in placed till the catalyst goes on any and all suggestions most welcome
    I have used a DEVCON product called FASMETAL, used to use it to repair aluminium evaporators in fridges. It is a two part product that looks like aluminium when set. Not cheap and I don't know how strong it would be in your situation.

    Best of luck with your repair.

    Col

  3. #3
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    Super glue and baking soda sounds like it will do what you ask.......... I've never done it so I have no idea how strong it is.
    There are kits sold at my local bolt place and oil place that have something along those lines(if not exactly that at 6 times the price) they claim can fix just about anything, though I cant remember its name.

    Stuart

  4. #4
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    For something like that, you could probably get away with plastibond, just make a lump of it in the right place, when it has set it can be drilled, sanded, tapped etc. Another product is JB Weld, never used it, but some people swear by it.
    Kryn

  5. #5
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    +1 for Devcon Fasmetal - full title is Devcon 19770 Fasmetal 10 (HVAC).
    The 184g pack (two tubes) will set you back about $50.00.
    Full description is on Devcon website. It's made for aluminium.
    I haven't used this particular product but I have been using their Plastic Steel S-5 for years for repairs to steel equipment. It's an excellent product. I'd reckon the Fasmetal will be just as good.
    All the best with your repair.

    Alan

  6. #6
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    Another +1 for devcon. We use it at work for repairing diecast alumium parts (covers, brackets,etc.). Would be just the thing for your repair. I know it is expensive but it will last forever, I'm not really convinced how good some of the cheaper epoxy's are.

  7. #7
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    JB Weld, about $12 from Masters.

  8. #8
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    I've used standard builders bog, metal filled bog, metal and fibreglass filled bog, various epoxies, JB Weld and Devcon mainly on Chainsaws so a lot of vibe involved..
    and the Devcon wins - probably because I took notice of the instructions and really cleaned the surfaces well.

    There are all sorts of claims made about the max PSI, Shear forces etc that these materials can sustain and how they are nearly as strong as steel etc but in nearly all cases this means SFA because the weakest link is the adhesive strength of the adhesive to the material to which it is bonded.

    With all these products it is really important to get the surfaces really clean, Devcon recommends using pure ethanol which is quite hard to get and no you cannot use vodka or whiskey!

    Where possible I'm using an Ultrasonic cleaner to clean the joins - a bit difficult with a table saw though.

  9. #9
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    thanks chaps - not much load on this section so the JBW is probly the go but fasmetal doe sound compelling
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  10. #10
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    Not wanting to hijack the thread, but can JBW or the Fasmetal be machined afterwards?

    I have a Free Wheeling Hub on my 1954 Land Rover that has been butchered by the previous owner. I don't have the skills to build it back up with weld / Tig. I was wondering if I could use either of these products to build up the missing bits and then put it in the lathe to machine it back to existing.

    One bit would form a square lip about 2mm x 2mm square x 15mm long around the circumference and another bit is to fill a bolt hole that has been drilled out - this would need filling and then a 3.5mm hole drilling through it.

    The Fasmetal sounds ideal because it dries to look like aluminium and my part is visible and not painted.

    Thx
    J

  11. #11
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by ventureoverland View Post
    Not wanting to hijack the thread, but can JBW or the Fasmetal be machined afterwards?
    Yes it can - they are basically epoxy with a filler.

  12. #12
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    I know the devcon product can be . Not sure about the others. Here is the link to devcon's site http://www.devcon.com/products/produ...%84%A2%20Putty on left there is a link to the technical data page.

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