Thread: K110 & M200 steel

For information of Bob T and Michael G. These descriptions have been taken direct from the Bohler (Au) wall chart.

K110.. Cold work steel C 1.55, Si 0.30, Mn 0.30, Cr 11.50, Mo 0.70, V 1.00
Dimensionally stable, high carbon high chrome featuring excellent toughness can be air hardened.
Suitable for blanking, forming, draw dies and punching tools.


M200 Plastic Mould Steel. C 0.40, Si 0.40, Mn 1.50, S 0.07, Cr 1.90, Mo 0.20
Prehardened chromium-molybdenum sulphurised steel. Suitable for plastic moulds & holder blocks for
the plastic processing, die casting industries & components for general mechanical engineering. Can
Can be flame hardened, gas nitrided and chromium plated.

Ken

Thank you Ken,

Knowing very little about heat treatment I had a delve on the net and found this pretty simple explanation of the difference between oil quenching and air hardening - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BbDXOwYpiA

I do have a copy of William Bryson's Heat Treatment, Selection and Application of Tool Steels as I think does Ray but not having an up and running kiln has meant the book has remained pretty much idle. I do have a small kiln that requires rebuilding, corrosion has taken its toll on its outer housing. The kiln was given to me by Alan "C-47" and I owe it to Alan to pull my finger out and fix it............too much to do and too little time.

Bob.

Bob,

Did that satchel turn up yet. I posted it 23/4.

Ken

Originally Posted by Toggy

Bob,

Did that satchel turn up yet. I posted it 23/4.

Ken

It was waiting for me when I arrived home this evening Ken. I just peeled off the duct tape and foam for a sneak look.

I'm thinking of my stumpy boring bar with a cermet insert mounted directly in a collet chuck rather than using the Kaiser. A 2 horse mill might be a better option than a half horse shaper?

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BT

I am glad you finally received it. Bl**dy aus post are hopeless with their delivery times. Looks like the alternatives will have to be checked out in future. 11 days is beyond a joke; yet last week I ordered bandsaw blades from Henry Bros in Sydney and 2 days later were at the local PO in country Vic.

I packed those bits in foam as I thought with the less than delicate handling the satchel would get; the sharp corners would have punched a hole in the plastic satchel very quickly.

I just hope that 110 doesn't break your heart or tooling.

Ken

Originally Posted by Toggy

I am glad you finally received it. Bl**dy aus post are hopeless with their delivery times. Looks like the alternatives will have to be checked out in future. 11 days is beyond a joke; yet last week I ordered bandsaw blades from Henry Bros in Sydney and 2 days later were at the local PO in country Vic.

Ken

Australia Post does have a lot to answer, as I can order something from China or USA and get it here in 7 - 8 days. Australia Post thinks WA stands for a World Away or so it seems, is 11 days, did they send it by horse and dray. Order from Qld and it's the same 11 days. And they want to up the postage cost because it's not making money.
Kryn

I thought their transit times were getting far worse...

I know Melbourne to here is a minimum of seven days..

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Australia Post does have a lot to answer, as I can order something from China or USA and get it here in 7 - 8 days. Australia Post thinks WA stands for a World Away or so it seems, is 11 days, did they send it by horse and dray. Order from Qld and it's the same 11 days. And they want to up the postage cost because it's not making money.
Kryn

I sent 3 camera lenses to townsville yesterday.
Went down to the Post Office and bought an Australia Post mailing box for $2.40. The clerk calculated the postage at $24.90. Then said if you buy a Large Satchel and put the box inside the satchel it will only cost $2.40 for the box plus $17.10 for the satchel including the postage – a total of $19.50 instead of $27.30.


No wonder Australia Post is losing money!

Bob

Originally Posted by Toggy

I am glad you finally received it. Bl**dy aus post are hopeless with their delivery times. Looks like the alternatives will have to be checked out in future. 11 days is beyond a joke; yet last week I ordered bandsaw blades from Henry Bros in Sydney and 2 days later were at the local PO in country Vic.

I packed those bits in foam as I thought with the less than delicate handling the satchel would get; the sharp corners would have punched a hole in the plastic satchel very quickly.

I just hope that 110 doesn't break your heart or tooling.

Ken

Hello Ken,

I unwrapped the steel this morning for the undertaking of a test cut and discovered a bandolier of carbide inserts lashed to the bars. Thank you.

Being lazy and in in all honesty fearing the worst, I left the stumpy boring bar in the Kaiser and gave it a whirl. My fears evaporated. Other than the head being a whisker out of tram I am pretty thrilled with the result on the K110. I thought I had a cermet insert in place but it turns out to be an insert forum member Tom W let me use for a demonstration of the boring and facing head on his little Hercus mill. Tom is probably wondering who pinched his insert.

I have not tried the M200, a file skated more readily across its edge that it did on the K110 and I thought if I was going to have problems I'd start with the "softer" steel.

A promising weekend ahead, fingers crossed.

Bob.

Oh Bob Thomas; where are you?


I have been expecting an update showing 2 wonderfully sculpted vice jaws. Or is the metal posing a problem?

Ken

Not quite there yet Ken.

Last weekend's perfect weather was too good to squander in the shed. Today it's raining..........

I had a go with a 1" HSS endmill with underwhelming results which can be observed at the top right hand side of the K110.

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With the Kaiser operating as a flycutter the results are OK.

DSC_4393 (Large).jpg DSC_4395 (Large).jpg

If they remain OK and it keeps raining, who knows, I might end up with a pair of jaws.

BT

It is most unkind to HSS. Sort of rips it up and spits out the pieces. Quality 1" end mills are not cheap to replace.

Best of luck with the project.

Ken

Bob , I have a 1/4" (ball nose) carbide cutter that was supposedly designed for use on harder mould steels and a 1/4" carbide end mill as well I think. I can send them over if you think that they will be useful for this project. (The ball end one may be useful for drilling the mounting holes?)

Michael

More rain and a bit more progress....

Four faces now machined. The top of the jaws were originally beveled 30 degrees and on the surviving jaw most of the bevel has been hacked off. I checked with an owner of a No.36 vice on the Schaublin Yahoo site and the jaw height with bevel intact is 37.5mm. Even after shimming one of the 123 blocks with my mate Bruce's 0.0005" paper shim tape, I'm about 4um out of parallel. Rough stuff! I must have belted one end of the bar with the hide mallet a bit harder than the other!

The bar is bowed but not much. With it resting flat on my boys size granite plate and pushing down hard on one end, the other end lifts up about .025mm. When I machine the stepped back I will clamp the bar directly to the table in an attempt to pull it flat, hopefully ensuring parallelism with the front face.

And Michael, thank you for your generous offer but rather than stuff up your carbide tooling I thought I would have a go at drilling the bar. Surprisingly it drilled well with a Sutton Cobalt HSS bit. I do have a carbide boring bar that fits my tiny boring head which, combined with the correct sized drill , might do for creating the counterbored fixing holes.

I just bought a couple of 1/8" carbide end mills that might do the job of cutting the clearance grooves along the sides of the 12mm wide key. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/251818868046

Bob.

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Bob;

you have a Hercus grinder don't you. You could always finish grind them on that to keep the Schaublin tradition.

Ken