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Thread: Huanyang VFD pot
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7th Mar 2015, 09:24 PM #1
Huanyang VFD pot
Hi I have a 3 HP huanyang VFD with the built in pot on the control panel for speed control . I cannot seem to get the pot to do anything . Does anyone know which PD number is used to activate the pot and make it change the speed ? I can change speed with manual buttons . The manual is not any help . Mike
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7th Mar 2015, 09:27 PM #2Most Valued Member
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PD002=1 (though there might be a jumper that needs to be moved............. but I'd try PD002 first)
Stuart
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7th Mar 2015, 09:46 PM #3
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8th Mar 2015, 09:27 PM #4
POGO STICK VFD
This is my pogo stick VFD mount . Made from gal pipe . I unscrew it and change it over to another machine, a walking VFD.
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8th Mar 2015, 09:35 PM #5
Soooooo......
Is the Hendey operational??1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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8th Mar 2015, 09:42 PM #6
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8th Mar 2015, 10:04 PM #7
You need to balance a 10c piece on edge on the saddle while you take a cut, thats the Holbrook test Harty is able to take some ridiculous huge cut and the coin doesn't move. The C10 is not so beefy, it is better for small cuts.
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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8th Mar 2015, 10:08 PM #8
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8th Mar 2015, 10:41 PM #9Philomath in training
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Your point being?
Rock steady (Medium).JPG
Michael
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9th Mar 2015, 08:26 PM #10
job
I tried the Threading of the 4041 3/4" 55 degrees BSW .
The threading tool goes through the 4041 like a hot knife thru butter ,. I am still not convinced this steel is very strong ?
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9th Mar 2015, 08:35 PM #11Most Valued Member
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Are you confusing hardness with strength?
Stuart
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9th Mar 2015, 08:43 PM #12Philomath in training
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- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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Mike, I'd suggest you need to make a cover for the back of your cross slide so that you don't get swarf always falling on your leadscrew. It will cause wear or gum things up.
As for your other thought, machinability has nothing to do with strength (or hardness).
Michael
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9th Mar 2015, 09:09 PM #13
OK
Yes good idea , the cover for the leadscrew
I have just started using the Harrison with its 2 hp motor .The solid feel and power of the Harrison is quite a contrast to the smaller less powerful lathes I have been using for some time and It may be a case of the larger lathe doing the job easily, rather than the steel being soft .
Strength and hardness , yes two different things .
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9th Mar 2015, 09:38 PM #14Golden Member
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The tensile strength of steel is directly related to hardness. Morrisman, if you would like to send me a small piece of the material in question I could do a hardness test and tell you if it's mild steel or some form of H & T alloy steel.
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9th Mar 2015, 11:54 PM #15
I find 4140 a joy to machine IF you can get the chips to break. It's hard but almost buttery, doesn't tear like black bar and finishes really nicely off the tool.
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.