Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 32
Thread: Gaskets
-
8th Feb 2015, 08:09 PM #1
Gaskets
Hi
After a strip down to check things ( an absolute necessity on these Indian clones ) , I am reassembling my Indian made Lister copy stationary engine .
They use paper gaskets each side of the block to adjust the pre load on the crankshaft tapered roller bearings . BTW the original UK built engines used bushes not TRB's .
Anyway Id like to know if there is any alternative to going to repco and buying proper gasket paper . In this situation, weeties packets will not be good enough The Indian gaskets that were on it are pretty crappy .
BTW the bored holes in the block, for the bearing castings, are .010" too large ( a Indian stuffup ) , I'm going to use some .005" shim stock wrapped around the casting machined shoulder as a fix . Any up/down movement of the bearing castings is a big no no , each time the heavy piston moves up/down it will drag the castings and crankshaft up/down
-
8th Feb 2015, 10:32 PM #2Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 4,779
Hi there,
What's the issue with going to Repco for gasket paper? Is it too expensive or are you after a better type of material? The reason why I ask is because if it's price then have a look on ebay. Heaps of gasket material can be bought in A4 size (for example) in lots of different thicknesses. If you are trying to avoid paper for some reason (such as you want a more reliable way of preloading the bearing) then maybe you need to look for some shim stock. Maybe you need to work out the thickness required and then hunt around?
A can of Pepsi max is pretty much spot on 0.10mm
Probably not much help.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
-
8th Feb 2015, 10:34 PM #3Golden Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 825
The original plain bearing type Listers use paper shims on the main bearing housings to set the crank end float, I've used plain old printer paper for this and it works fine.
With the extra clearance on the holes in the crank case, I would do a test fit of the crank and both bearing housings before shimming them.
It's possible that a bit of free play is needed to allow the crank, crank-case and bearing housings to align themselves when the housing bolts are torqued down.
Even if there is a bit of clearance, I wouldn't think there'd be much movement as long as everything is torqued down correctly.
Cheers,
Greg.
-
8th Feb 2015, 11:14 PM #4
Indian sizes
This is another problem
The long 3/4" studs hold everything together , the cylinder block and the head . The nominal size of the 4 studs is 3/4 " diam. with a whitworth thread at each end . Well they are .020" undersize , the problem is, the head nuts are a very loose fit on these weird undersize threads .
I may have to machine up some undersize nuts ....
-
9th Feb 2015, 12:09 AM #5
When I had my farm, I had a 12Kva Chi****** copy back up generator (we were totally self sufficient for electricity) After many months of not needing to run the old girl, I had an emergency at 3 or 4am (of course)
and needed big power in a hurry.
I wend and fired her up and no more that 30min went by and I heard a bang and we lost all power.
Inspection showed that the studs of which you speak had snapped and the head blown off.
I made new ones out of good quality high tensile steel and never looked back.
I would advise making new ones out of good steel and be done with it. That way you can make your own nuts to your own tolerances, and be sure of the fact it will never happen to you..
MattWarning Disclaimer
-
9th Feb 2015, 05:31 AM #6
Those studs could have stretched enough to thin them by 20 thou.
Best Regards:
Baron J.
-
9th Feb 2015, 06:05 AM #7
Stretching and thinned by .020, that's scary. Do they supply those generators with a remote start option, that way One does not to be near to the launch.
-
9th Feb 2015, 12:36 PM #8Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
Lister had a genset with an automatic start option (Start-O-Matic), useful for remote households. Turn on a light switch in the house for example, and it would signal the engine to start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT_exyuLSpk
Anyone see the war movie, "The Railway Man", out last year? A working Lister features briefly.
Jordan
-
9th Feb 2015, 07:03 PM #9
Agree
Yes I have to agree , making new studs will be the best thing to do . I ran a file on the Indian studs, they are rather soft
Being a diesel, the head needs to be torqued down well.
Looks like a trip to my steel supplier in Hallam is on the cards .
I ran some taps though the block threads today , a lot of black sand came out
-
9th Feb 2015, 07:05 PM #10
-
13th Feb 2015, 12:18 PM #11
STUDS
As I am making new 3/4"studs about 18"long , threaded with BSW at each end. Would 4041 steel be OK for this purpose . The tensile strength in its non hardened state , is that strong enough ? Maybe somebody can suggest a more suitable steel ? Mike
-
13th Feb 2015, 12:37 PM #12Golden Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Riddells Creek, Vic.
- Posts
- 831
If you are referring to 4140 then, yes, that would be perfect
-
13th Feb 2015, 01:03 PM #13Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2014
- Location
- South of Adelaide
- Posts
- 1,225
-
13th Feb 2015, 08:06 PM #14Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2014
- Location
- South of Adelaide
- Posts
- 1,225
Don't know if you have machined 4140 before but you have to run a bit slower than MS. Work on about 20m/min with HSS and 120m/min with carbide. I wouldn't recommend using carbon steel taps or dies either they go blunt real quick. If you have any dramas let me know and I will try to help, I machine a fair bit of it at work.
-
15th Feb 2015, 07:00 PM #15
shims
hi
I decided to make up some steel shims/gaskets . There is a 1.5mm gap each side and I feel that paper is just too flimsy to adjust and hold the pre load on the TRB's .
If I need to reduce the thickness of the steel shims to provide the correct pre load, I will try the plate glass and abrasive paper trick
here I am boring the shim out to 5.760"
I ran BSW taps through the block threads and a fair amount of fine black grit came out, casting sand I think .
Mike .