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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Lindenow
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    50
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    869

    Default One For The Brains Trust

    OK pretty simple really,
    Last night the drivers electric window on my Landcruiser decided it was not going to go up.
    So today I have pulled the switch apart to find this broken piece of switch....
    My question is.....................
    How would you go about making the repair?
    I have considered soldering, But I'm not sure lead would be strong enough in the long term. I have also thought about drilling and screwing it back into place..... It has broken off right next to the rivet, you would be lucky to even see where it has come off from as I think it was slightly under the rivet.
    Replacement of the switch block is not an option at over $600.00 so a repair it must be....

    Anyways here is a picture of what I'm talking about.... Sorry about the quality I had the shakes.....
    Thanks in advance.


    Matt
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by matthew_g View Post
    .. Sorry about the quality I had the shakes.....

    Matt
    I suppose after pricing a new one, anyone would get the shakes.

    Toyota, Oh what a feeling - about sums it up

    I think a trip to the wreckers is in order. They have to be a lot cheaper than that.

    A repair that would last looks pretty wobbly.
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
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    6,216

    Default

    make a new strip...
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    A trip to the wreckers as nearnexus suggested. Sometimes fortune favours the brave. Have a go at soldering. So I assume it's from the drivers door and so has master switches for the 3 other windows? Have a look on ebay for a cheaper non genuine part?

    Just some thoughts

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
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    Default

    How hard is it to get the rest of the strip out Michael.
    I'd go with Richards idea and make a new strip.
    I can supply the copper sheet but I guess you wouldn't want your window down for that long.

    Phil

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
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    65
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    Default

    A hearty 'thank you' to Michael for pointing out the error in my ways and a massive apology to you Matthew.
    Now where did I put that dunces cap the last time I took it off.
    An embarrassed Phil

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    68
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    Default

    In the short term, is it possible to rejig the wiring into the switch such that the driver's window is controlled by one of the remaining good switches and sacrifice the ability to open one of the other windows, perhaps the offside rear?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    490

    Default

    Epoxy it to the plastic, perhaps?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
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    Default

    Hi Matt,

    I can't tell from the pictures, but does that strip flex when in operation? If it flexes, then it's going to be difficult to repair properly, a trip to the wreckers is your best bet. If it flexes and you decide you want to make another, then try and get some berylium copper sheet. It's springy and often used for contact strips like that.

    Ray

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,540

    Default

    Cunning thought - can you make one in steel and then leave it in a copper sulphate solution overnight? (will give you a thin coat of copper - probably good enough to stop corrosion and conduct electrically).

    Michael

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lindenow
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    Default

    For the good news, I spragged it before I removed the switch block out of the vehicle.
    You are correct in it the master control board and has all the other door and master central
    locking switches in it.
    I had considered making a new strip, but that would involve grinding all the rivet heads off
    to remove whats left.
    I have called most of the wreckers between here and Melbourne and it seems the switch block was an issue in this model and any good ones are already gone.
    I have found one in the US, but the price is still around $500 once postage is added.
    I will have a go at trying to solder it in the short term and see if I can pick up another broken one and strip it for a strip out of another switch....
    Hmmmmmmmmmm
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The Whitsundays
    Posts
    229

    Default Other switches

    Hi Matt,

    Several of the strips inside the switch look to be the same. If the strip can be removed, then I'd look to buy a crook one from a wrecker take out one leaf from the crook switch from say a back window switch and install into yours. The other option might be a switch from another model Toyota, say a Prado??

    Cheers

    The Beryl Bloke
    Equipment er.... Projects I own

    Lathes - Sherline 4410 CNC
    Mills - Deckel FP2LB, Hardinge TM-UM, Sherline 2000 CNC.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Newstead Victoria
    Posts
    459

    Default Switch repair

    Matt,without jumping in with the post,these issues with power window seems to be a problem with drivers side switch failures there other vehicles out there same deal.Imagine how many times that window goes up and down.There are lots of rocker switches around and in my view would attempt to repair the copper arm.Looking at the pic looks like the rivet is in the middle.carefully drilling it out and take it out by stages[rivet].have a look around for some old type ignition points that have a long spring [ie wrap around that would give you a total length].polish both ends after you get right curve and re rivet hardest thing will be to get hole through in the central spot. the spring steel will carry the current ok and should get you out of trouble.the other thing i have seen similar contacts
    in rotary switches from washing m/c too.600 dollars would give me a lot of reasons to do an alternative fix.Being brought up at Poverty Point we always would extract all the elecrtrical junk from discarded appliances.It is amazing what can be done with a small hoard of these components.
    we keep our cars much longer than the rest of the world and most components like these are engineered to fail.Every vehicle made has inherrent problems thus finding a source if the failed item as they al suffer from the same failure.

  14. #14
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    Jun 2008
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    Lindenow
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    Default

    I too grew up on a farm many many miles from nowhere, so know only to well about fixing everything.
    If it was beyond repair, a new one was more than 10 days before a new one would grace the front gate.
    And I would never trade my childhood and the hardships for anything in the world

    I have repaired it by soldering the broken strip back on. It will do for now. I used an acid flux and then tinned both sides of the strip and around the rivet. Then stuck em together.
    As I had to bend the strip up a bit after soldering I gave a tug (small) with the little pliers and it all felt very strong. So with a little luck it will hold out long enough till I can find another switch to butcher for parts.

    Thank you for all the comments. Much info was gained from them.
    Quick photo of the repair.


    Matt
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  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    4,779

    Default

    Good work Matt.

    You got nothing on Bob when it comes to photography though!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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