Thread: Engine Turning

Hi all, I was thinking of producing an engine turned dash board part for my S1 Daimler Soverign. I know the theory but can anyone give any pointers for a newbee to this process. Sorry if this is the wrong part of the forum.

Hercus 71

Can you post a picture of the sort of thing you want to do. I think I know but confirmation would be good as "engine turning" has been appropriated for several different things.

Michael

Havn't got personal pictures but basicaly the type of thing that was done to the nose of the 'Spirit of St Louis'.
I believe it is done with metal polish on felt on a short length of dowel in a pillar drill. I expect I shall be corrected - a lot.

Actually, for that sort of finishing you have it pretty much correct. A strip of felt wrapped around a shaft (hold it with a pipe clamp?) and use a bit of valve grinding paste.
I've done it crudely but it basically worked.
Experiment and post the results for us please. Always interesting seeing a different process or someone else's take on that process.

Michael

Just a deviation from Hercus's question....I've noticed that the back panel of most stainless steel tankers (fuel) have an engine turned finish. And have been wondering why go to so much trouble? My guess is that it probably greatly reduces glare and reflection from the sun.



EngineTurning.bmp

Originally Posted by GSRocket

I've noticed that the back panel of most stainless steel tankers (fuel) have an engine turned finish. And have been wondering why go to so much trouble? My guess is that it probably greatly reduces glare and reflection from the sun.

I've done a bit of service work on machines at Tieman and Kockems tankers. They are both local to me. The dome on the rear of those tankers is structual. Any inperfection in the dome, a flat spot or ripple, makes them look bad in brushed or polished Stainless or Ali. You see the same thing on Milk tankers.

I've seen those end caps, stacked up like egg shells, after they have been pressed. They're nice but not pretty.

Jeweling or engine turning them, helps hide the imperfection. Breaking them up with that round, round, checker board patten hides the blemish.

I've seen it done to tanker ends. They use a low speed 7" sander / polisher, with about a 4" wire cup wheel, with a wad of steel wool, jammed into the wire wheel.

Regards Phil.

Jeweling is commonly seen on rifle bolts, google search using these sorts of terms will bring up plenty of info.

eg.



http://www.cs.ucr.edu/~eamonn/et/et.htm

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...pt-at-Jeweling

Originally Posted by Machtool

......I've seen it done to tanker ends. They use a low speed 7" sander / polisher, with about a 4" wire cup wheel, with a wad of steel wool, jammed into the wire wheel.
Regards Phil.

Thanks Phil. That's very interesting and answers something that's been puzzling me everytime I'm on the road.

I shall experiment and post some results. Thanks for all the information so far. I expect more will be posted before too long....

I've had passable results using a wooden dowel (turned down broom handle) in a drill press.
Some hacksaw cuts across the face, loaded with valve grinding paste.

Jordan

Hi I think I have what you are looking for.
I am mainly a furniture maker but a while ago started making clocks using wood and reclaimed stainless steel components, and spent a long time trying to find how to do what you are referring to.

Not really engine turning as that's rather different,I suppose you would call it spun decoration.

After much searching I found what I was looking for they are RO-LOC discs with a SCOTCH-BRITE PAD ON THE END.
They are pretty cheap to buy on Ebay and I bought some 1" and 2" ones you need the matching arbor to mount them and they can be changed over in a few seconds without removing the shank from the drill.

I would recommend using them in a drill press an at low speed,I dont use any cutting agents or lubricants but might be worth experimenting as they produce fine dust particle.

See the attached photo of one of my projects using a drill press and rotary table.

Originally Posted by GSRocket

Just a deviation from Hercus's question....I've noticed that the back panel of most stainless steel tankers (fuel) have an engine turned finish. And have been wondering why go to so much trouble? My guess is that it probably greatly reduces glare and reflection from the sun.



EngineTurning.bmp

Wine tankers don't have engine turned finishes. Shiny stainless steel, for a while. I remember when one company had a lot of new tankers built by Byfords. The drivers were very particular about dragging hoses etc across the flash new surface. Did not last long tho.

Dean

Wow mark david, what a stunning piece of work! It seems for the best appearance even progression of centers must be maintained. I shall have to work on that aspect carefully.

Originally Posted by Hercus71

Wow mark david, what a stunning piece of work! It seems for the best appearance even progression of centers must be maintained. I shall have to work on that aspect carefully.

Exactly right on the centers. I have tried an automotive gauge panel on the D/ press and concluded that a drill mill cross slide arrangement would have been better
Having no Drill/mill I ended up using a jig cut from plywood . The x axis was ok but the y axis had clearly discernible errors in my case. Size of the work will limit the scope of the work due to the throat depth of your drill press

For cheap rrse experimenters like me, hole saw some ply discs and glue on scotchbrite ( dishwashing scourers) and a cup headed bolt will did the job.

Grahame

G'day
The attached images are a scan from a book titled The Restoration of Vintage and Thoroughbred Cars. It calls the process mottling but I think it is one and the same as engine turning.

Cheers Hugh



mottling1.pdfmottling2.pdf