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8th Sep 2014, 12:08 PM #1Golden Member
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Chainsaw sharpeners - alternate uses ?
Hey,
I've seen these things in various shops for a long time now $30ish upwards.
https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-b...w-sharpener-1/
I've been wondering has anybody ever used them to sharpen anything else ?
Are different wheels available ?
Bill
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8th Sep 2014, 01:27 PM #2Most Valued Member
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Hi Bill,
I couldn't find the sharpener you linked on the Aldi special buys list. However if it's the same one as I have and the same as mentioned in this thread:http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=101752
Then I feel I cannot recommend them. I have one and never used it for fear of butchering my chains. They are flimsy and do not seem to give a good positive end stop or adjustment. I have a manual file with an angle guide and I also have a 12V portable sharpener which I use. Every 5 sharpens or so I get them done at the local saw shop.
There is a lot of stuff from Aldi which is really good but unfortunately this is not one of them.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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8th Sep 2014, 01:34 PM #3Golden Member
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Thanks Simon,
Am not particularly interested in any one brand more the idea that with a few slight tweaks to the clamping mechanism they might be used to sharpen other things.
Was wondering if anybody had ever tried doing this.
And yes ................... its always best to use a tool to do what its designed for and nothing else.
However this thought has been niggling at the back of my head for ages. Hence the post.
Bill
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8th Sep 2014, 02:34 PM #4Most Valued Member
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Didnt someone set one up for sharpening scrapers?
Stuart
to answer my own question... Yes they did
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...42#post1736242
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...99#post1480499
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8th Sep 2014, 02:42 PM #5
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8th Sep 2014, 05:14 PM #6Cba
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Bill, my wife bought me an Aldi one a few years back. Returned it the next day for a refund. I did not even care to try it out. It was so badly made and "flexi-plasticky-crappy" that I did not want to waste a chain on it. My expectations to how a sharp chain has to look are obviously way too high for such plastic tools. Nothing beats a file to sharpen chains. I just clamp the bar in the bench vise, click the chain brake, 4-5 strokes with the file on each tooth, release brake, advance chain by some 4 tooth, repeat over. Probably just as fast as any other means.
Using that Aldi contraption to sharpen anything else, does not sound like a good idea. There is nothing it can do, that could not be done better with an angle grinder. Some Aldi tools are good value, most are not. The chain sharpener is definitely not.
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8th Sep 2014, 09:28 PM #7Most Valued Member
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Hi Bill,
surprisingly, that little chainsaw sharpener is still going strong (as a carbide scraper sharpener) and has done a power of sharpening.
Phil
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8th Sep 2014, 11:09 PM #8Most Valued Member
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A mate of mine just finished modifying one to sharpen bandsaw blades. I've put my order in already, I get Mk1 he ges Mk2
Kryn
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8th Sep 2014, 11:16 PM #9Golden Member
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8th Sep 2014, 11:41 PM #10Most Valued Member
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Hi Bill, I didn't give this sharpener a good wrap but I guess your thread was really about other uses. SO, I apologise for not addressing the actual question. In truth, I'm a big fan of modifying stuff to fit another (unintended) purpose. I had forgotten that people here had used them for other uses. So, from that POV why not!! Simon
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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15th Sep 2014, 07:27 AM #11Senior Member
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What about a circular saw blade sharpener? I have seen a few knocked up in youtube.
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4th Oct 2021, 10:21 PM #12
chains
When it comes to sharpening chainsaw chains, I get the best results with a simple round file, no guides involved. The professional tree fellers ( at least the ones I have seen ) generally don't bother with the fancy sharpening aids, they mostly just use a simple round file without any guides.
The trick is: establish a 'hook' form on the tooth profile which many of the so called guides don't seem to be able do . The file needs to have around 10-15% of its diameter above the tooth horizontal edge.
Might be I am using the wrong method but those basic guides marked with angles that hold the file are next to useless, when using one, I can't see what's going on under the guide, the guide hides everything.
I am not pedantic about the tooth angles , around thirty degrees seems to work fine. I do try to keep the tooth lengths equal.
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4th Oct 2021, 11:49 PM #13
Hi Guys,
I posted not too long ago about how I modified my Aldi chainsaw sharpener to sharpen TCT saw blades.
24-06-2021-003.jpg 24-06-2021-001.JPG
24-06-2021-004.jpg 24-06-2021-002.jpg
I find that this sharpens chains just fine and with a small addition can be coerced into sharpening small circular saw blades like slitting saws.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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5th Oct 2021, 09:29 AM #14Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I can file without a guide but I've been using a file guide since 1965, yep I was 12 when my Dad, a pro tree feller showed me how and eventually I used to sharpen his saws for him. Now the reason I use one is because they come in different sizes, as do files, and using different size combinations allows the hook to be finessed. Typically I use a 7/32 holder and a 13/64 file. This means 1/64" more file pokes out above the the holder than using 13/64 file and produces a slightly reduced hook that makes the tooth edge last a bit longer when milling harder wood.
The top pic shows a pro cutter profile and the lower one shows my typical cutters
MalloffBobLchain2.jpg
Chainsaw milling places much greater requirements on chain sharpening than cross cutting and it was only when I started chainsaw milling that I realised of equal importance to the cutter profile was the raker depth. Eventually I came up with what is called progressive raker depth setting where by the raker has to be progressively dropped more and more as the cutter wears.
A nominal setting is the depth should be 1/10th of the gullet width. This means when a chain is new and has a typical gullet of 0.25" the raker depth should be 0.025" but when the chain is well used and the gullet may be even be 0.5" then the raker depth should be 0.05". This makes old chains cut like new
I posted about this on the internet back in 2009 on the chainsaw milling forum of the Arborist website and hundreds of chainsaw users have posted or sent me PMs and emails telling me how much this has improved their cutting. Its in this thread https://www.arboristsite.com/threads...-tricks.93458/
BTW if this method is used, then cutter length is not that important.
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5th Oct 2021, 01:35 PM #15
Thread
Bob Very useful tips there ! I think you are using 3/8 chain mostly ? I use .325 and 3/8 LP chains , I have a MS250 and a little MS170 . I found this thread helpful https://www.arboristsite.com/threads...rators.114624/
Utube as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWwLEuY5Iao