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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    ukraine
    Posts
    6

    Default

    photo
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  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default disassembly procedure

    Hello all,

    Disassembly Procedure "general" is here, follow the thread for some more posts with photos, I hope this makes it easier to follow with photos


    The first thing I took off was the motorpulley.The screw holding it to themotor shaft is left hand thread and my small puller was used to break the sealof the pulley’s internal taper over the 370W 2 pole motor shaft’s tapered bush.The reason it is tapered is that to get thefull speed range you need three motor pulleys, small, medium and large and itmakes sure it is concentric every time.My drill has the medium pulley. The belt guard was removed next and onthis model it is a cast item held to the top of the head by 2 hex head screws.The lid is not interlocked and stays in place using gravity.Two location pins fitted to the finelymachined mating face of the guard body keep it in the right place.The electrics were easy, there are a fewcover plates but once they are off the rest is screwed in and easy to getat.I took the 240V to 12V transformerout of the base.The motor andadjustment bracket were next to go.Theadjustment bracket is precision machined casting and the machining matches malekey features on side of the head.Theclearance is fine, less than 0.1mm and the action is smooth.The motor will get an electrical safety checksoon and as it is already star and delta a VSD will fit without issues.

    Now the finer precision items, firstly removinga small cover plate on the left revealed the return spring and when the tensionwas unloaded the spring was taken out.It is a fine helical coil spring, not a clock style spring in thisdrill, you can alter the spring force by rotating the cover plate which securesone end of the spring.On the right, twoSHCS’s removed and then the complete down feed was removed with the lightesttap known from a brass drift.It slidout because it was greased, it was ground and it was British built, built tolast.This bush is also eccentric so youcan take up any slack in the down feed by adjusting the gear to the rack freeplay.A few more grub screws in the headtaken out and this allowed the main bearing spindle or quill to slide out (ordrop out) the bottom of the head.A fewmore screws removed and a tap from below released the drive spindle assembly inthe top of the head.So now I have awork bench strewn with assemblies and old grease so I removed the greasenipples in the head to clean all the old grease from the galleries and nipplesthemselves before starting on the sub-assemblies.It was clear the grease was stale and thebinder was dry so the oil had been lost over time by gravity.I knew I would need to take everything apartbit by bit to clean it out.

    Three more posts with photos to follow. mgtoolmaker





  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default Disassembly of down feed handle

    Down feed disassemblyThe feed assembly, pinion and handle was thefirst unit I tackled.The reason forthis was the bearings are not running at high speed so could handle a mishap ifI got clumsy.The main shaft was tappedout of the housing and took one of the roller bearings along for the ride.The other bearing was tapped out withoutincident so no damage.The shoulders forthe bearings in the housing are internal circlips.With grease removed using WD-40 and kerosenethe parts were placed in zip top bags for later.The attached photo has the parts laid out.. There is an eccentric headed bush, a pinion, a spring, two single row roller bearings, a spacer bush for the bearings a depth stop and the handle. The inside of the eccentric bush has two circlips to depth the outer race of the bearingsregards mgtoolmaker
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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default drive spindle disassembly

    Disassembly of the drive spindle

    The next housing disassembled was the drivespindle.
    The housing was wrapped inlayers of aluminium foil then clamped in the lathe and the first of two coverplates removed.The cover plates are RHand LH threads so be careful and I used the lathe as the chuck held the bushwell and the back gear engaged provided resistance.The tailstock was then used to push the shaftout but it did not budge.A look at theassembly again, a new position over the bench vice and a calming word beforethe Thor leather hammer technique.Itdrifted easily without further scaring. The two self-aligning roller bearingsfeel a bit gritty and I may change them out.The internal grease passage in the bush is not in line with the galleryin the head so the grease is from the factory 50 years ago which could explainthe gritty feeling.
    In the photo is the bearing housing, the hollow drive spindle, locknut, self aligning bearings, bush for inner race of bearings, key, threaded lock / cover plate w felt seal in it.

    regards mgtoomaker
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default quill disassembly

    Oh this is a nice bit of kit............

    The final housing to disassemble was thequill.Again, two cover plates RH and LHthreads.I used the lathe again and thetailstock to find it was a spring loaded bearing assembly.Don’t forget the aluminum foil wrap toprotect the machined surfaces.So oncethe "seal" was broken, you couldpush theinner spindle in relation to the outer housing and the lathe was good to usefor this.A side note, this is how thespindle design handles variations in heat and cold during operation.

    This is the weird bit, it took a while towork it out, but I managed to get the bearing at the upper drive end to pumpdown against the spring pressure and stay there and this is when it showed awell concealed pin in the shaft holding a headed bush that retained the upperbearing in place against the spring.Thepin came out easily as did the bush and the bearing underside had a hardenedwasher that took the contact force of the last winding of the spring.The spindle came apart without issue. Thelower bearing is still on the shaft as it is easy to clean now and heldsecurely with two lock nuts.Again, apleasure so far due to the design, nothing is nicer than working with a greatdesign and quality machining.


    With all parts clean I am ready for the buildprocess.

    the photo shows the quill body, the spindle with lower bearing and two locknuts in place, hardened washer, two threaded cover plates with felt seals, the lock pin, the lock bush, the spring and the spacer washer that the spring pushes against. The thread is around 12mm dia so the spindle is tiny......

    regard mgtoolmaker
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    ukraine
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Very good.
    Very interested in the spindle.
    I have no spindle.
    Details spindle will buy in England.
    Photo by will know what is needed.
    Gather little inofrmatsii and start to disassemble your machine. Photo post in this thread?

    Interesting - that, from a factory in my machine is left?
    Native whether bearings?

    In what year were produced these machines?
    I have not found the information ...
    I wonder - how my machine was in the Soviet Union, Ukraine?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    ukraine
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hi.
    spindel - collet type
    What is the maximum diameter of the drill?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default questions from privet

    I know you have a few questions privet, I willdo my best to answer.

    The motor on my drill is three phase continuousrated 370W and is 2850RPM. It is also special balancing and Ex rated so it is special


    There is a parts list in an earlier post, lookfor the pdf I posted.The contact email for partsis [email protected]


    The collet is a special for the Herbert “B” machineonly.The biggest size is 5.5mm.I only have up to 4.0mm.They have a narrow grip range and come insteps of 0.1mm.For very small holes(.05mm dia) I will use a step drill with a 1.0mm shank.Over 4.0mm I will use my bigger drillingmachine.

    Not sure how your machine got to Ukraine and noidea how many Herbert drills were made.If I was to guess, your drill may have been purchased by a technicallaboratory in a factory or for a university.There may have been obstacles with getting foreign machines in pasttimes


    Most of the ‘B’ drilling machines would be 30to 50 years old so made in 1960 to 1980.Almost all spares can be bought for the machine but they are expensive.

    hoe this helps, mgtoolmaker


  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    ukraine
    Posts
    6

    Default

    to be continued?

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