Thread: Another Waldown Brought Back to Life (I Hope)

On my beater drill, Waldown used a far more basic stop. Certainly not as positive as that found on the 8SN and the 2 and 3M drills but might be an option if you are missing the correct bits.

2012-04-29 022 (Large) (2).JPG.


Bob.

Hi Dean,
I missed that picture
I have a feeling I've used a drill with a stop like that in the dim distant past.* They are very quick to set(assuming you're just trying to miss the table and not trying to tweak it to the nearest 1/10th). But to break the taper you loosened the nut and pulled against the stop pin.... which might explain why it broke. Your idea might give you the best of both worlds.


Stuart

*reserve the right to be full of it. I'm getting old lol

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Here's the bit you can't see in Michael's photo.

Attachment 314934

Bob.

Thanks from me as well Bob.

On my beater drill, Waldown used a far more basic stop. Certainly not as positive as that found on the 8SN and the 2 and 3M drills but might be an option if you are missing the correct bits.

It is the pin I am missing Bob, as the casting has been broken, knocking the pin out in the process. What model is your beater drill?

Dean

This is the CAD drawing I have knocked up for the feed shaft.

Waldown Feed Shaft.jpg

Dean

Some more pictures of the shaft so the drawing is easier to understand (I hope).

A better view of the broken tooth.
The handle end.
The spring end.

Down Feed Gear Teeth 3.jpgDown Feed Gear Teeth Handle end.jpgDown Feed Gear Teeth Spring end.jpg

Dean

Dean, any reason you can't drill the hole for the missing pin a bit deeper into the remaining casting, insert a longer pin and rebuild the missing casting ear with filler? I cn't see that it has to take a lot of force in normal use. I supect the drill has fallen over and the feed arm struck the pin REALLY hard to break that bit off....

Originally Posted by jhovel

Dean, any reason you can't drill the hole for the missing pin a bit deeper into the remaining casting, insert a longer pin and rebuild the missing casting ear with filler? I cn't see that it has to take a lot of force in normal use. I supect the drill has fallen over and the feed arm struck the pin REALLY hard to break that bit off....

I would have to measure the casting to see if that was possible, but that would not give me a fine depth adjustment. I have not really looked at it properly yet nso as to decide which way to go.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

.................. What model is your beater drill?

Dean

Dean, it's either a Workmax or its predecessor. The economy model devoid of the neat features of Waldown's other drills. The lack of the quill wear accommodating pinch bolt is the worst omission. Here it is alongside the bells and whistles 3M.

Bob.

030 (Large).JPG

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Some more pictures of the shaft so the drawing is easier to understand (I hope).

A better view of the broken tooth.
The handle end.
The spring end.

Down Feed Gear Teeth 3.jpgDown Feed Gear Teeth Handle end.jpgDown Feed Gear Teeth Spring end.jpg

Should be able to do something with that. Given the age of the machine and the closeness to imperial dimensions you are probably better if you think of things in inches with this one (for example, 19.03mm is very close to 3/4"; 50.8mm is 2"; 25.32mm is very close to 1" and so on).

Just for confirmation/ clarification, the 42mm is total length of tooth including run out?
There looks to be a dimension missing from the drawing for the chamfer. I scale it to 3.8mm. Is that correct?

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Should be able to do something with that. Given the age of the machine and the closeness to imperial dimensions you are probably better if you think of things in inches with this one (for example, 19.03mm is very close to 3/4"; 50.8mm is 2"; 25.32mm is very close to 1" and so on).

Just for confirmation/ clarification, the 42mm is total length of tooth including run out?
There looks to be a dimension missing from the drawing for the chamfer. I scale it to 3.8mm. Is that correct?

Michael

You are quite correct that I should scale it in imperial, as it is an imperial machine. I find it a bit easier to use metric sometimes and use it almost all the time with CAD. Some of the measurements were done with my inch mity. I was trying to get the drawing done quick. It should be a simple job to convert the drawing.

Yes the 42mm includes the runout.

I was being a bit cowardly with the chamfer, but I missed the fact that it affects the whole length. It is 3.9mm in length. I had trouble working out the angle, so I left it for now. I doubt it is really important. I have just noticed I have missed out a detail as well. The chamfer does not go all the way to the 25.32mm diameter. I will make some corrections.

Dean

Here is the revised drawing. I had to search around in order to get the dimensions to full precision, but I got it sorted in the end.

I have saved this one in PDF. I did not realise it was available before. I am using a new version of TuboCad. The PDF file is scalable, which may be easier to see detail.

Waldown Feed Shaft 2.pdfWaldown Feed Shaft 2.pdf

And a pic.

Waldown Feed Shaft 2.jpg

Dean

I dismantled the motor today.

Motor Disasembled.jpgMotor Inside Rear.jpgMotor Windings 1.jpgMotor Windings 2.jpgMotor Windings 3.jpg

Pic 1 In bits.

Pic 2 The rear of the motor including fan. This bearing is very stiff. It is clean, but that stuff that resembles grease, now acts more like glue. It is quite tacky.

Pic 3 The wires. If you look closely, you can see my wire ID. Heat shrink near the ends, of different lengths. The inside of the motor is extremely dusty and has some metal filing as well.

Pic 4 The wires extended as far as possible. They feed into the coils at this point. I have cleaned the motor up with compressed air now.

Pic 5 Another pic for luck.

Now I need to work out what to do next. Open up those connections and see what I find. First some reading of forum threads to refresh my almost clueless mind.

I did think about removing the stator, but if you look at Pic 4, and follow the little arrow you will notice a slight impediment to this process. That is one of a number of welds, holding the stator in.

Dean

Pity you untied the coil connections where you did.... GO tie them all up again so they don't get damaged!
Then show us a nice close-up of the entire stator end so we can use our 'powers' to spot the star point
To refresh: you are looking for an insulating sleeve that has 3 wires going into it - probably from 2 sides.
Here are two likely candidates. I can't see what's happening at the other end of the top one, nor the hidden end of the bottom one.
Have a close look at those two for a start. It is possible - and likely - that one of the sleeves is a different size or colour to the others, though in this motor they are all generously dimensioned and could easily hold 2 wire sleeves coming in at one end.....
Motor Windings 3.jpg
Good luck!

Originally Posted by jhovel

Pity you untied the coil connections where you did.... GO tie them all up again so they don't get damaged!
Then show us a nice close-up of the entire stator end so we can use our 'powers' to spot the star point
To refresh: you are looking for an insulating sleeve that has 3 wires going into it - probably from 2 sides.
Here are two likely candidates. I can't see what's happening at the other end of the top one, nor the hidden end of the bottom one.
Have a close look at those two for a start. It is possible - and likely - that one of the sleeves is a different size or colour to the others, though in this motor they are all generously dimensioned and could easily hold 2 wire sleeves coming in at one end.....
Motor Windings 3.jpg
Good luck!

Actually, I was waiting for Ray. He doesn't need a close up.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Actually, I was waiting for Ray. He doesn't need a close up.

Dean

I think you meant Stuart.