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  1. #16
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    Default Table Traverse

    Have not tried it myself, but have heard of guys wh fitted a small dog arrangement on the end of a leadscrew and drove it with a cordless drill. A refinement to this could be to use the motor, gearing and control from old battery drills to make a permanently mounted setup. Sure it's been done before, and most workshops will yield one or two old 14.4v drills which work fine on 12v. A power source can be had from a battery charger or power pack for CB transceivers etc. Plenty of room for ingenuity. Regards, Combustor.
    Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Combustor View Post
    Have not tried it myself, but have heard of guys wh fitted a small dog arrangement on the end of a leadscrew and drove it with a cordless drill. A refinement to this could be to use the motor, gearing and control from old battery drills to make a permanently mounted setup. Sure it's been done before, and most workshops will yield one or two old 14.4v drills which work fine on 12v. A power source can be had from a battery charger or power pack for CB transceivers etc. Plenty of room for ingenuity. Regards, Combustor.
    I think that I have seen something like that on one of the other forums that I inhabit. I think the guy who did it made i wooden frame to mount and fasten it all together.

    Though the idea of salvaging the motor and gearbox from an old battery powered drill is attractive.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    This is Blu's as i mentioned before. A bit of a combo of all idea's here!
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...25#post1763625

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    This is Blu's as i mentioned before. A bit of a combo of all idea's here!
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...25#post1763625

    Ew
    Thanks for this link. Some interesting Ideas in there. That wiper motor looks very similar to the one I obtained.
    Though I wouldn't be happy with the drive hanging that far from the end of the table.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
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    Sep 2012
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    Thumbs up Measuring up.

    Hi Guys,

    I've been doing some investigation and measuring up the end of the table on my mill. I've taken some photographs and done a sketch of the end plate. Its quite a substantial chunk of metal casting. I have taken the hand wheel off and measured the shaft at 10mm diameter. There is also a thrust race just inside the round bit and a key in the shaft. I also found that the end plate was dowelled on two extractable ones as well as two 6 mm Hex socket cap screws holding it in place. Removing the dowels was not very easy since they were very tight. From the slight bruising on the ends, they were probably put in with a hammer. I used a 4 mm hex head bolt with a washer and a short sleeve to get them out.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Though I wouldn't be happy with the drive hanging that far from the end of the table.
    Yes Baron, it does hang out a bit far I should re-work the coupling and get it closer to the end of the table.

    Ueee, my power feed is surely a fusion of ideas. Some inspirations for my version came from here here and here.

    I've used the same wiper motor on my other mill (an X2 that I'm currently converting to CNC) for years and it gave faultless service, although it was painstakingly slow to return for another cut.

    Prior to using the two motors, I tried PWM with the drill motor but could not get that to work properly. I also had a more elaborate gearbox arrangement in a previous version that gave a high gear to achieve a rapid return... but I had problems with stripped plastic gears and broken timing belts.

    The reason I chose two motors was to get the best of both worlds. The wiper motor is designed for continuous duty and can run for extended periods without overheating and the drill motor gives a VERY rapid feed rate to return the table. My main concern with using a drill motor for both functions is that they are not designed for continuous operation.

    Here is a video of the power feed in operation. The centre position of the gear lever is neutral and the table can be used manually. To the right engages the wiper and to the left engages the drill motor. The wiper motor can be run in forward or reverse by using the 3-position switch on the right. It seems to work happily running in either diection, I think it came off a holden. I had an old power supply lying around that has switchable DC output voltages and the wiper motor will run smoothly right down to 6v. The Chinese PWM unit mentioned in another thread looks good to achieve an even better result. The rapid feed is great.
    Last edited by Blu_Rock; 25th May 2014 at 01:54 PM. Reason: Added video
    He Who Dies With the Most Tools Wins

  7. #22
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    Thumbs up

    Hi Blu_Rock,

    Thank you for those links and video. There are a lot of useful ideas in there. I like the use of direct gear drive and having been given a very useful gearbox recently, I have been taking it apart to see what could be useful to me. I've found a large plastic gear that seems perfect for the ideas that I have in mind, mainly culled from some of those web site links so kindly provided.

    I'll put more details in a separate post. Meanwhile here is a photograph of the gearbox that I have cannibalised.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #23
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    Cool Sorting out some gears.

    In this gearbox I found a large gear that has the right dimensions to replace the handle on the end of the mill table drive shaft. Its about 85 mm in diameter and 8 mm thick on the periphery and 8 mm thick in the centre. The ribs are only 5 mm thick by 2 mm with the web 2 mm thick with six 12 mm holes through. The 6 mm diameter shaft in the gear in the photograph is just one that I used to support it while taking pictures.

    I also found a gear that mates with this one that is 20 mm long and 20 mm diameter. Having taken all the bits off the windscreen wiper motor I have a shaft with an M8 nut and tapered splines that secured the wiper drive arm. So I cut this gear to give me two gears 8 mm thick that will mate with the big gear. I also found that the end of one of the other gears was right to mate with all three gears and was thick enough to allow me to bore it out and put a taper into it so that I could fit it onto the wiper motor drive shaft and secure it with the original M8 nut.

    The photographs show the gears that I cut and the original gear before and after, that I machined to fit the motor shaft. You can see the slight bulge where the gear has stretched when being pressed onto the splines by the nut.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #24
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    Thumbs up My Requirements

    Hi Guys,

    Done some more on the design for my mill table drive.

    Since the windscreen wiper motors don't like being run backwards, I came up with this idea. The motor can run in the correct direction and the table traverse direction can be reversed by simply moving a cam. A advantage of this is that it will allow the motor to be disconnected from the table so that the table can be traversed with the hand wheel at the other end.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #25
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    Default

    Love it Baron, tumbler gears are probably the simplest form and work brilliantly.
    Great thread by the way.

    Phil

  11. #26
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    I agree with Phil, Baron. Good idea. I think that was one of the possibilities I thought of when working out my design. I did not get any further than thinking about it tho.

    The fact that my lathe is running and this thread has made me want to get mine finished. I think I have one piece machined round.

    I have to look at the drawings again, so I remember what I am making.

    Dean

  12. #27
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    Hi Baron,
    Haven't you got 3 gears in an triangle? that's not going anywhere. Either the left or right 13.59 needs to be a tooth height bigger.


    Stuart

  13. #28
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    Default Table traverse for Chinese mill.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Baron,
    Haven't you got 3 gears in an triangle? that's not going anywhere. Either the left or right 13.59 needs to be a tooth height bigger.


    Stuart
    Damn your eyes Stuart!
    I should have picked that up. The tumblers aren't allowed to mesh with each other.

    Phil

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Baron,
    Haven't you got 3 gears in an triangle? that's not going anywhere. Either the left or right 13.59 needs to be a tooth height bigger.


    Stuart
    Hi Stuart,

    Don't take any notice of the dimensions on that drawing ! They are totally our of whack.

    I initially just measured the gear diameters and popped those on a drawing to get an Idea of the layout. I've redone it since.
    But thanks for pointing it out. Its one of those things where you rush in and then get that "Oh Doh" moment when it doesn't fit.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Damn your eyes Stuart!
    I should have picked that up. The tumblers aren't allowed to mesh with each other.

    Phil
    Hi Phil,
    I've another drawing somewhere where I've done it right. I was going to post it but I've a sneaky suspicion that I've hidden it somewhere.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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