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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,540

    Default An aside -

    Quote Originally Posted by Abratool View Post
    A very practical & useful Sine Table.
    You were very fortunate to get hold of it.
    At one stage I was wondering whether I should measure it with a view to drawing up plans if members want to cast them up. Any interest in that? (the finished unit weighs 23kg according to the box so shipping finished casting around may not be cost effective - although patterns perhaps would be). My mill table is 9 1/4" wide from memory and the sine table fits nicely (sine working area is 12" long by 8" wide). Would a scaled down version be more useful to others?

    Michael

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    71
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    6,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    At one stage I was wondering whether I should measure it with a view to drawing up plans if members want to cast them up. Any interest in that? (the finished unit weighs 23kg according to the box so shipping finished casting around may not be cost effective - although patterns perhaps would be). My mill table is 9 1/4" wide from memory and the sine table fits nicely (sine working area is 12" long by 8" wide). Would a scaled down version be more useful to others?

    Michael

    Scaled down would work for a bitty mill owner like myself Michael.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
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    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    At one stage I was wondering whether I should measure it with a view to drawing up plans if members want to cast them up. Any interest in that? (the finished unit weighs 23kg according to the box so shipping finished casting around may not be cost effective - although patterns perhaps would be). My mill table is 9 1/4" wide from memory and the sine table fits nicely (sine working area is 12" long by 8" wide). Would a scaled down version be more useful to others? Michael
    Might be interesting though I have a 16" x 6" tilting angle plate I made the patterns for and had cast many years ago so I'm not sure if I'd ever need it. I'd want one full size though as it'd fit on all my mills. Getting the castings done isn't a drama but a set would run to at least $300 plus freight, possibly more. No way of knowing without asking the foundry. PDW

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    ex Perth, now Mittagong
    Posts
    105

    Default

    The "odd" angled slot arrangement is common to most cylindrical grinders. You will notice that all the J & S attachments such as tailstock, steadies etc have a vertical sectioned base which aligns with the front edge of the table. The angled 'T" bolt simply pulls this firmly into this alignment face at the same time clamping the attachment to the surface of the table.

    One of the things which should be drummed into the user of a cylindrical grinder is the absolute no no of sliding any attachment along the table instead of lifting it clear, cleaning very thoroughly the area it is to be placed then placing it carefully without sliding before clamping. Not only does grinding dust get under the sole of the attachment but it also gets on the vertical face of the table. Sliding things along rapidly creates wear.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    Default

    I looked back and noticed that I haven't really done anything since September last year. Bit slack of me really but I've had a few interruptions.
    One of the noticeable parts missing was the oilers.These sit either side of the spindle belt housing as can be in this photo of (someone else's) machine.
    jones_shipman26.jpg

    Originally I though "easy - I can just buy a couple" but looking around and even talking to Phil, they are not something that is easy to find - partly because it had to pick up on the existing thread (1/8" BSP) and partly because the guard was so close. Eventually I managed to find a pair that had the right thread but were too large - they were 1 1/4" and I had to be around 1".
    P1020812 (Medium).JPG
    The plan was to remake the top and bottom parts on the reservoir, replace the glass and things would be fine. Sounds easy but I think these must have come from Murphy Manufacturing Co, as there were lots of attempts to derail that rather simple plan.
    Firstly, the glass. Everybody seems to have gone metric since this grinder was made (alright - that was 1949 but...). Finding some inch diameter glass tube and getting two pieces cut was a hell of a job. Eventually I had to settle for a 26mm OD. Even then people wanted to sell me 2m minimum.
    The top and bottom pieces on the original drippers were pressed from sheet. Not wanting to start on press tooling I kicked this around and eventually I stumbled on a piece of brass rod with a diameter big enough so decided to machine them. These are not flat parts but have some form to them (think jam jar lid with a flat dome on top), so that meant grinding some tools with the appropriate form. Plunging a tool in from the outside and hoping that you don't meet the cavity that you just cut from the inside does take some getting used to - you know the dials say that they won't meet but even so.
    To hold the parts for finishing was tricky too. It needed to be a small chuck because the ID was only 26mm. My smallest is a three jaw and will hold that size part internally but will it be concentric? My answer was to use a 4 jaw.
    P1020813 (Medium).JPG

    Once the parts were made they had to be fitted. The top pieces just located but the bottom pieces were peened onto the valve seat. I was sure the seller's ad said solid brass construction but when removing the existing - apparently not.
    P1020814 (Medium).JPG
    Once the steel was removed I annealed the brass, folded it back, put on the new base and peened it back. At least, that's how it worked for the first one. The second one had the peened ring break just at the material removal stage. Lots of loctite.

    However, it all went together. The first photo shows the new next to the old and the next shows the new trial fitted to the grinder (around 1mm clearance to the casting). I don't know what caused the ghosting in the photo - I would have said I moved the camera but the non-brass bit does not seem blurred. I need to put some sealing or gasket material in there but at least I can start on the power train stuff without worrying about stuffing bearings
    P1020817 (Medium).JPG P1020815 (Medium).JPG

    Michael

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Nice work Michael, if you find that too much oil is being used, let me know, as I've an article on modifying the taper that will help fix that.
    Kryn

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Outstanding work Michael.
    Cork is normally used as the gasket material. I have plenty if you need it.

    Phil

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Nice work on the oiler Michael. Haven't done anything since last September? You need to pull your finger out. You don't see me laying around idle with unfinished projects……. Take a hard look at yourself!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
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    6,458

    Default

    Nice tricky work as usual Michael.

    I like the three into four method of workholding. One to keep in the back of my mind.

    Thank you,

    Bob.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Cork is normally used as the gasket material. I have plenty if you need it.
    Thanks Phil. I was planning on "recycling" some small cylindrical pieces of cork that seem to accumulate.

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Haven't done anything since last September? You need to pull your finger out. You don't see me laying around idle with unfinished projects
    What was that Simon? I didn't hear you properly - probably from the noise of a folder in the background furiously bending up drip trays for a surface grinder...

    Michael

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    Default

    Seeing the need to spring into action I've started doing the supports for the J&S overhead shafting. Possibly to no one's surprise I've started before nutting out the fine detail. I have some photos of how the originals were arranged and am trying to keep things along similar lines. One issue I do have is securing pulleys on shafts, particularly those that are between spans. There are some photos of an original in this post - http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...09#post1793009
    The simplest way I can think of of securing these pulleys is using a taper bush in an arrangement like this
    pulley lock.jpg
    The shaft is 20mm diameter, the Al pulley will be roughly 25mm wide and either 190 or 240mm diameter. For those who have not recognised the basic shape of my taper bush, I was intending to use an ER32 collet as they are available in their cheapest versions for around $10. Anyone got any better ideas that will not cost a fortune? Should I extend my front clamping flange and incorporate a short keyway?

    Michael

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    Hi Michael, one industry solution would be to use a TaperLock. They come in various flavours, some of which you machine the hub of the pulley to suit the taper of the Taper Lock, and others which come with a pre-machined centre which accepts the Taper Lock, and you weld into the hub of the pulley you wish to fasten to the shaft. This link is to Fenner who make the Taper Locks, and better explains what I'm waffling on about, http://www.fptgroup.com/fenner.asp?t...es&pageid=2668 and this link is to an eBay listing of a potentially suitable Taper Lock. It is a little more expensive than your $10 collet, but not much more. I hope this is some help, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TAPER-BUS...item2338306034
    Rob

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
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    6,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Seeing the need to spring into action I've started doing the supports for the J&S overhead shafting. Possibly to no one's surprise I've started before nutting out the fine detail. I have some photos of how the originals were arranged and am trying to keep things along similar lines. One issue I do have is securing pulleys on shafts, particularly those that are between spans. There are some photos of an original in this post - http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...09#post1793009
    The simplest way I can think of of securing these pulleys is using a taper bush in an arrangement like this
    pulley lock.jpg
    The shaft is 20mm diameter, the Al pulley will be roughly 25mm wide and either 190 or 240mm diameter. For those who have not recognised the basic shape of my taper bush, I was intending to use an ER32 collet as they are available in their cheapest versions for around $10. Anyone got any better ideas that will not cost a fortune? Should I extend my front clamping flange and incorporate a short keyway?

    Michael
    Michael,

    Hercus located and fixed the countershaft pulleys on my 9 inch lathes by means of a locally flatted shaft and a grubscrew. You could easily create an offset hub in the pulley by counterboring the pulley and Loctite-ing in place a bored sleeve of aluminium to suit. I repaired a damaged motor pulley on the garden shed Waldown in a similar fashion. Loctite's Super Bearing Mount can work wonders.

    Bob.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    Default

    I had thought about grub screws but was not happy with the idea of having the mating thread in an Al pulley; the other issue was having to have a longer boss on the part (extra material cost). For a small pulley that would not worry me as much but the diameter of these is such that I want to make sure these are going to be mounted without a chance of wobble or chewing out threads/ keyways.
    However, your suggestion of a bored sleeve is a good one and I could easily incorporate a steel hub which would be both more durable and replaceable if necessary.

    Using a collet as a taper bush was my cheap alternative to a commercial taper lock hub. I like the idea (of the commercial unit) but don't want to fork out lots rebuilding a machine that in reality will only be used occasionally. I also thought the ER collet would be more compact.

    More to think about.
    Michael

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    122

    Default Bushs.

    Try looking up Bi-fit pullies , cheap and effective and a bloke with your talents could make his own bushes.

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