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14th Sep 2015, 08:50 PM #61
Bandsaw_Left_Side[1].jpg
Some of the text did not come out very clear for some reason.
Full width moving vise jaw reaches all the way to the blade and has a threaded rod to allow clamping for short parts.
The plastic drip sheets are the only problems with drips except for the ends of long parts.
Next time I would lift higher off the tray for more access underneath.
Speaker magnets under the tray to hold chips.
Homemade table for vertical use (Underneath).
There is also an improved clamping nut for the vise.
Full size drip pan visible here.
Bandsaw Right Side.jpg
The partial warning sign used as a drip tray can be turned lengthwise for longer material. Held on with spring clamp/s
Underneath the outfeed table is a pile of chips etc. This is actually a bit of stainless mesh which catches this stuff. It can be slid out for emptying. It looks as tho it is due.
The extension to the height lock handle is a bit of 6mm rod welded on and bent slightly upwards so coolant runs back towards the saw. This prevents you getting wet hands when using it.
Coolant nozzles are short lengths of stiff poly tube from garden sprinkler uprights. They have a slot for the blade. They can be replaced for next to nothing.
I have also made it possible to move the fixed jaw back about 30mm so I can cut wider material.
Bandsaw End.jpg
Not much to add here except the table for vertical use can be clearly seen and to point out that the stand has been raised to a proper working height.
The saw still lacks a plate under the outfeed table for clamps to engage on for cutting very small parts.
Another thing I have seen is a small machine vise mounted on a plate so it can be clamped in the saw vice and hold small parts. The vise is mounted with jaws parallel to the saw jaws right next to the blade.
DeanLast edited by Oldneweng; 14th Sep 2015 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Speeling
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14th Sep 2015, 09:39 PM #62Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Thanks that is very useful.
I was keen to see how you handled the connection from the BS base to the tray connection.
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14th Sep 2015, 10:56 PM #63
I hope you can work everything out. Any questions and you know what to do.
Another improvement I keep thinking about is changing the threaded rod vise spacer for a quick change version. A couple of ideas I have seen.
Simple side clamping by a bolt to lock it in position.
A cross pin with a part round section cut out to lock against the spacer rod, drawn against it with a threaded end and nut. Similar to what locks my mill quill except the cross pin is 2 pieces that are pulled together with 1/4 round hollows clamping the quill.
Dean
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9th Oct 2015, 06:51 PM #64Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I finally got round to adding a tray under the BS. It's done in my usual agricultrual style mainly because the bandsaw unit itself probably hasn't got that much more life in it.
The first thing I did was make a 50 x 50 x 3 mm angle iron box frame to go over the top of the old sheet metal base.
IMG_6155.jpg
IMG_6158.jpg
The tray itself is made from a SS panel already with a 20 mm lip on it from an old hospital gurney I rescued from a skip at work.
The panel was about 200 mm too wide so a quick cut with the plasma and a fold and TIGed up the corners - all good
TIGed a short length of 1/2" SS tube into one corner to collect the coolant
IMG_6157.jpg
Two pieces of flatbar bent into a large U shape hold the BS 100 mm above the tray.
The tray is extends far enough behind so that when the blade is lifted up out of the way any coolant left on the blade that used to dribble onto the floor is still caught by the tray
IMG_6159.jpg
The SS is non-magnetic so a magnetic broom will work a treat on collecting the swarf so it will be a lot easier to clean out than a galv gutter..
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9th Oct 2015, 08:52 PM #65
Looks pretty good Bob. The blade guide unit looks quite different to the modern ones.
Dean
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9th Oct 2015, 08:59 PM #66Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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It's hard to know what is original on that BS, when I bought it in 2011 it was already like a Swiss cheese with lots of holes not in use and the base welded up with a heap of pigeon poo spatter.
The 1/4HP motor on it was not original and I have since swapped it for a 1/2HP.
I also replaced all the knobs and the switch.
It still cuts straight enough and there have only be 3-4 times since I've had it that it was too small for the job and had to use the 450 mm gullet saw at work Even if I had one 1-2 sizes bigger it would not have done the jobs.
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9th Oct 2015, 09:25 PM #67
As long as it keeps doing what it is meant to do, then it doesn't matter how old or what it has suffered over the years.
Dean
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