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Thread: HAUSER 3SM
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25th Apr 2014, 11:03 PM #31Most Valued Member
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Indeed lol
I have a suspicion that the little critter maybe cause of the crumbly wires.
The machine does operate as is, so either the wiring is "hanging on" or the toasted wiring isnt in normal use. Replacing it shouldn't be to much of a drama.. though making it as pretty might be. it's work of art.
I had another go at getting to the power Z switch.. almost there.
Now to draw up what I have.. where is that schematic program......
Stuart
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25th Apr 2014, 11:10 PM #32Philomath in training
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Silly question perhaps, but have you contacted the makers of the machine?
http://www.kellenberger.com/english/...s/default.html
The company dates from 1917, so may have information stashed away that could help.
Michael
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25th Apr 2014, 11:30 PM #33Most Valued Member
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Hi Michael,
I haven't as yet....I was hoping to find a date or serial number first.
Stuart
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26th Apr 2014, 12:38 PM #34Most Valued Member
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Well I made sure I need to rewire(not that I didnt anyway, but I may have been able to do some testing before hand)
I removed the door that has the board on it to make it easier to trace the wiring. This required straightening out the wiring loom(well of course that was a bad idea when you have 14 wires out of 40 that are well toasted!)
A few things I noticed. All the toasted wires are multi strand. All the "untoasted" wires are solid. There is nothing in other side of terminal 36...so it will be interesting to see where those two wires go.
This is the grey mystery box. The figure 8 wires run to terminals 1 2 3 and 4. Which are black, orange, orange and unknown color toastys.
Stuart
P.s. If your going to use those lift off pin hinge things for a door. make one a little longer than the other!.. how unSwiss
P.p.s going by the marks on the grey box, someone has been in there before me.
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26th Apr 2014, 01:03 PM #35
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26th Apr 2014, 11:52 PM #36Most Valued Member
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Hi Ray,
Doesn't help me any but it might help you. This is as far as I got today.
More a pictorial than a schematic
I'm pretty sure the orange and black wires running to "terminal block inside base" are factory, even if the link to earth isnt! So what ever the mystery box is (the ? on the right hand side) it would appear to be "in" the circuit..... I thought filter caps went across the circuit...... but then I wouldnt really know(I dont even know if "in" and "across" are technically correct)
Still no sign of a date or serial number.
No play time tomorrow.
Stuart
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27th Apr 2014, 01:46 PM #37
Hi Stuart,
All straight forward enough so far, I guess it will get more complex as you move into the panel itself.
hauserwiring2.jpg
I've noted the obvious things. The mystery box is in series with the 240V that goes to the right rear base terminal block... The only thing that would make sense is a choke or filter of some sort.. But depends on what's connected at the other end of the terminal block.
Ray
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27th Apr 2014, 08:59 PM #38Most Valued Member
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Hi Ray,
I did get the chance to get a little more done today.
Yes, It turns out those wires go to the motor.
Yes to operator controls.
Its really got me wondering now... as the 240V wiring doesnt seem to go anywhere else other than the sockets on the front of the column*. It wouldnt seem possible for one failure to effect the other orange and black wires.......maybe they arent burnt, maybe its just the type of insulation after 60ish years?
Endoscope has come in handy
Stuart
*unless those sockets join up to the "?" wires. which would be strange, why run wires up one side of the column only to run them down the other side?).
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28th Apr 2014, 09:52 PM #39Most Valued Member
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Well now I'm scratching my head. Seems the column motor isn't 2 speed or start/delta. Any guesses how you get two speeds out from a 3 phase motor with only 3 wires?
Added some more... almost found them all now(2 of the "?" are because I seem to have an error on my drawing with three wires seeming to go to a terminal that only has two )
Stuart
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28th Apr 2014, 10:22 PM #40
Stuart, the third photo shows a motor terminal in Y configuration, with the links to change it to Delta and seemingly 6 wired attached (as well as the three core cable). If that's the column motor you are talking about, then it is definitely single speed but Star/Delta configurable - and not apparently SWITCHED star-delta.
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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28th Apr 2014, 10:38 PM #41Pink 10EE owner
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28th Apr 2014, 11:26 PM #42Most Valued Member
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Hi Joe,
Yes it is the terminal block on the column motor(would have helped if I had said that. the yellow wire is of course earth).
Thinking about it some more I'm not seeing enough wires at the switch for two speeds either. It would seem a pretty safe bet that the black and brown wires are two phases with the switch swapping them over for rev. White would be a common with green and blue closing the contactor on the main board through the up and down limit switches.............so why two positions either side of off?(I think I'm going to learn something once I start tracing the main board. Next wild stab in the dark..position 2 is fwd or rev. position 1 is a brake.....could that explain the rectifier?)
Hi RC,
Thanks for that.... They need a book "bearings for dummies"....I just dont seem to be able to get my head around them and when I do manage 6 months later its all gone.
Stuart
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29th Apr 2014, 02:02 AM #43
Hi Stuart,
So far so good, I guess the main board circuit diagram might resolve a few questions. ... BTW.. You can get variable speed with a 3 wire connection to a motor... easy... just vary the frequency...
Ray
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30th Apr 2014, 12:25 AM #44Most Valued Member
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Well here it is.....almost. Hasn't been checked and it and still has a couple of wires missing.
Stuffed if I know whats going on with the mystery switch. My only theory now is that they want the contacts for the phases in the switch closed(position 1) before power is switched by the contactor on the main board(position 2). Would know until I get a chance to go over the switch itself.
What I've called spindle feed top/bottom limit?" might in fact be more of an auto stop.
Good news is everything apart of the motors is 60V(apart from some 10V sockets) and can be powered from the 220V tap on the primary.
Time for a break.
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30th Apr 2014, 10:24 AM #45
Hi Stuart,
60V.. that makes the 240V conversion easier.. Just shift the primary tap. and wire in a VFD.
I can't make head nor tail of the circuit just yet, brain must have frozen overnight.. But I'll print a copy and study it over the next few days..
Ray
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