Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 119

Thread: HAUSER 3SM

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    CSI Hauser?
    Indeed lol
    I have a suspicion that the little critter maybe cause of the crumbly wires.
    The machine does operate as is, so either the wiring is "hanging on" or the toasted wiring isnt in normal use. Replacing it shouldn't be to much of a drama.. though making it as pretty might be. it's work of art.
    I had another go at getting to the power Z switch.. almost there.

    Now to draw up what I have.. where is that schematic program......

    Stuart

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,542

    Default

    Silly question perhaps, but have you contacted the makers of the machine?
    http://www.kellenberger.com/english/...s/default.html
    The company dates from 1917, so may have information stashed away that could help.

    Michael

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Michael,

    I haven't as yet....I was hoping to find a date or serial number first.

    Stuart

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Well I made sure I need to rewire(not that I didnt anyway, but I may have been able to do some testing before hand)
    I removed the door that has the board on it to make it easier to trace the wiring. This required straightening out the wiring loom(well of course that was a bad idea when you have 14 wires out of 40 that are well toasted!)
    A few things I noticed. All the toasted wires are multi strand. All the "untoasted" wires are solid. There is nothing in other side of terminal 36...so it will be interesting to see where those two wires go.

    This is the grey mystery box. The figure 8 wires run to terminals 1 2 3 and 4. Which are black, orange, orange and unknown color toastys.

    Stuart

    P.s. If your going to use those lift off pin hinge things for a door. make one a little longer than the other!.. how unSwiss

    P.p.s going by the marks on the grey box, someone has been in there before me.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    This is the grey mystery box. The figure 8 wires run to terminals 1 2 3 and 4. Which are black, orange, orange and unknown color toastys.
    .
    It's still a mystery.. If it were a more modern machine, I'd suspect some complex circuit to be buried in there, but given the vintage of everything else, I'm thinking it could just be a snubber, or just a capacitor?

    Ray

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Ray,

    Doesn't help me any but it might help you. This is as far as I got today.
    More a pictorial than a schematic
    I'm pretty sure the orange and black wires running to "terminal block inside base" are factory, even if the link to earth isnt! So what ever the mystery box is (the ? on the right hand side) it would appear to be "in" the circuit..... I thought filter caps went across the circuit...... but then I wouldnt really know(I dont even know if "in" and "across" are technically correct)

    Still no sign of a date or serial number.

    No play time tomorrow.

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Stuart,

    All straight forward enough so far, I guess it will get more complex as you move into the panel itself.

    hauserwiring2.jpg

    I've noted the obvious things. The mystery box is in series with the 240V that goes to the right rear base terminal block... The only thing that would make sense is a choke or filter of some sort.. But depends on what's connected at the other end of the terminal block.

    Ray

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Ray,

    I did get the chance to get a little more done today.
    Yes, It turns out those wires go to the motor.
    Yes to operator controls.
    Its really got me wondering now... as the 240V wiring doesnt seem to go anywhere else other than the sockets on the front of the column*. It wouldnt seem possible for one failure to effect the other orange and black wires.......maybe they arent burnt, maybe its just the type of insulation after 60ish years?

    Endoscope has come in handy

    Stuart


    *unless those sockets join up to the "?" wires. which would be strange, why run wires up one side of the column only to run them down the other side?).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Well now I'm scratching my head. Seems the column motor isn't 2 speed or start/delta. Any guesses how you get two speeds out from a 3 phase motor with only 3 wires?

    Added some more... almost found them all now(2 of the "?" are because I seem to have an error on my drawing with three wires seeming to go to a terminal that only has two )

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Stuart, the third photo shows a motor terminal in Y configuration, with the links to change it to Delta and seemingly 6 wired attached (as well as the three core cable). If that's the column motor you are talking about, then it is definitely single speed but Star/Delta configurable - and not apparently SWITCHED star-delta.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    I know little about bearings I assume they was pretty standard. They are (about) 27.95OD 9.95ID, stamped with N, M and either 9/16 or 9/10..... those numbers mean anything to anyone?
    A 16100 bearing has the dimensions 10 ID, 28 OD, 8 W.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Joe,
    Yes it is the terminal block on the column motor(would have helped if I had said that. the yellow wire is of course earth).
    Thinking about it some more I'm not seeing enough wires at the switch for two speeds either. It would seem a pretty safe bet that the black and brown wires are two phases with the switch swapping them over for rev. White would be a common with green and blue closing the contactor on the main board through the up and down limit switches.............so why two positions either side of off?(I think I'm going to learn something once I start tracing the main board. Next wild stab in the dark..position 2 is fwd or rev. position 1 is a brake.....could that explain the rectifier?)

    Hi RC,

    Thanks for that.... They need a book "bearings for dummies"....I just dont seem to be able to get my head around them and when I do manage 6 months later its all gone.

    Stuart

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Stuart,

    So far so good, I guess the main board circuit diagram might resolve a few questions. ... BTW.. You can get variable speed with a 3 wire connection to a motor... easy... just vary the frequency...

    Ray

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Well here it is.....almost. Hasn't been checked and it and still has a couple of wires missing.
    Stuffed if I know whats going on with the mystery switch. My only theory now is that they want the contacts for the phases in the switch closed(position 1) before power is switched by the contactor on the main board(position 2). Would know until I get a chance to go over the switch itself.

    What I've called spindle feed top/bottom limit?" might in fact be more of an auto stop.

    Good news is everything apart of the motors is 60V(apart from some 10V sockets) and can be powered from the 220V tap on the primary.

    Time for a break.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Stuart,

    60V.. that makes the 240V conversion easier.. Just shift the primary tap. and wire in a VFD.

    I can't make head nor tail of the circuit just yet, brain must have frozen overnight.. But I'll print a copy and study it over the next few days..

    Ray

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. second hand Henri Hauser mill advice
    By Briangoldcoast in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 20th Aug 2013, 08:42 AM
  2. Hauser Jig Borers and Grinders
    By Anorak Bob in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 16th Jan 2012, 12:06 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •