Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 119

Thread: HAUSER 3SM

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for that.
    Very close... guessing I'd say thats a later model.

    Hi Welder,
    oops... seems I neglected to mention it the grinder part

    Stuart

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Well I've been unable to date the machine as yet. The manual I have would appear to be for a later model, so much of it is useless.
    Found a few issues and a few questions.
    Any guesses on what the big red thing is? Looks like a selenium rectifier but if it is I've no idea as yet what for.
    How about the small grey box below it?

    Next, this is the terminal strip after the main switch(which BTW the manual says the block heaters bypass anyway!). It sure looks like they are using the earth as neutral?

    I wonder if the black block is a heater?

    Any ideas what these alum(?) strips are for, they run both sides and front and back of table?

    Good news is both motors would seem to be delta wired. I think the Z movement has two speeds, but I cant get to the switch atm. The motor only has one rpm(2800) I wonder if it a star delta switched?

    The counter weight... which I'm pretty sure didn't get a mention in the manual may have only just survived the trip.... although who knows that might be what it was like at the start of the trip?

    Lots of questions not many answers.

    Now I really should store this thing while I get back onto the Wickman. lol

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Any guesses on what the big red thing is? Looks like a selenium rectifier but if it is I've no idea as yet what for.
    How about the small grey box below it?

    Next, this is the terminal strip after the main switch(which BTW the manual says the block heaters bypass anyway!). It sure looks like they are using the earth as neutral?

    I wonder if the black block is a heater?

    Any ideas what these alum(?) strips are for, they run both sides and front and back of table?
    The big red thing is a selenium rectifier.. it's just a rectifier stack... by stacking them you get higher voltage handling capability. So it must need DC for something?

    Don't know about the grey box? You might have to open it up to see what's inside. Might be a capacitor?

    The terminal strip looks dodgy... You might have to trace the circuit to see if they are picking off 240V somewhere, it will be between one of the phases and neutral... connecting neutral to ground like that is a no-no! You need to remove that, and run a seperate neutral to wherever the 240V is required..

    Ray

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Ray,
    Thanks for that. Thought so but I cant think of what they'd need DC for. I'll have to go looking.(though getting to the panel isnt easy, getting to anything isnt all that easy in fact..... I'm not even 100% sure I've found all the motors yet lol.*).

    This is the second machine I've bought wired with phase to ground... more searching. (though in the case of the first one I think I got it cheap as they thought they were selling something that "didnt work". The story was they had just moved to a new factory and didnt need it anymore.. I wonder if the new factory had an RCD?)

    Schematic would be handy!

    Stuart

    *To expand on the a little. There are two contactors as per picture. But the switch lever for the power Z has two positions either side of center off. ......So I dont think it would be using one of the contactors as well.......... could be wrong lol

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    *To expand on the a little. There are two contactors as per picture. But the switch lever for the power Z has two positions either side of center off. ......So I dont think it would be using one of the contactors as well.......... could be wrong lol
    Up and down?

    One contactor might be just for reversing, the live side would be in parallel... and there might be auxillary contacts for enabling limits.

    Ray

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    But (I assume) one of the contactors is for the eccentric drive/Z auto feed. So that leaves you with one contactor and a 5 position switch.


    Stuart

    This might be a little confusing...there are two motors(currently) the one with the 5 position switch moves the whole column up and down in Z. The second motor drives the eccentric and moves the grinding spindle(what you would call the quill on a mill) up and down in Z

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    But (I assume) one of the contactors is for the eccentric drive/Z auto feed. So that leaves you with one contactor and a 5 position switch.


    Stuart

    This might be a little confusing...there are two motors(currently) the one with the 5 position switch moves the whole column up and down in Z. The second motor drives the eccentric and moves the grinding spindle(what you would call the quill on a mill) up and down in Z
    Sounds like I might have to pay a visit..

    Could it be fast up, slow up, off, slow down, fast down.. the speed could be switching the number of poles?

    Ray

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Ray,
    You may do!
    Ys I think its fast slow... but my guess is its switching star/delta as the motor doesnt mention dual speed.......but I'll not 100% that would work very well....... until I work out how to get that switch out I wont know.(infact thinking about it a little more I dont think I'd know even then. As both a dual speed and a dual pole motor will have 6 wires)

    Life just got better... and worse. Look what I found lol

    First two pictures are where the four armored conduits from the column meant the base casting. The Swiss being Swiss. Dont we all scrape the surfaces we screw terminal blocks to? So only one motor up there is would seem.(some of the insulation is turning to tar)

    Then up the top of the column we have all this, solenoid for revering the Z auto feed, three switches for the auto feed, one for on/off, the other two for bottom and top stroke(I think). There are also a couple of sockets on the front of the machine and another micro switch inside the head.
    If that's a 415V solenoid there will be a bit of work to do before I get that going.

    So that at least explains some of the forest of wiring....though why more rectifiers I dont know.



    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    So did I do something useful like clean the shed, trace the wiring or even get back onto the Wickman.
    No I made a puller to get the fine adjustment knobs off. Shame the other one has a broken grub screw. Thats going to take some careful drilling to get out!

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Stuart,

    There's some interesting circuits in there... not at all clear exactly what they do... one looks like it's measuring the voltage across a current shunt and then rectifying it with those selenium rectifiers.. some kind of current based control circuit.. ???

    I think it might be worthwhile to spend the effort chasing down the manuals, hopefully with circuit diagrams..

    Ray

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Ray,

    If I cant pin down the year I think I'm going to struggle to get a manual. In fact even if I can pin down the year I likely have a problem. I assume the manual I has is the closest that they could get? I'd go searching and see how it goes, cant hurt to try. Failing that if the weather is good tomorrow I'll start drawing my own, only 35ish wire to trace in two directions

    BTW this is just a socket there is one under each axis...... at a guess they are for a lights for the dials.

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Stuart,

    If they are for lights, I'd guess they would be 240V... I don't recall seeing a transformer.. have a look and see if there's a transformer hiding in there somewhere.. That would explain the need for a neutral connection... although not why it's earthed..


    Ray

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    One in here Ray,

    http://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...1&d=1398308060

    Not sure why they didnt use that for 220V (if I am correct in remembering that the primary windings are effectively an auto transformer? So if you put 440V across 440v and 0v you would get 220V from the 220V tap? Not that I'm a fan of auto tranformers...... but its got to be better than phase to earth surely?)

    My search isnt going to well. I cant even find a machine that looks the same as mine...... most are later hydraulic models I believe.

    Stuart

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Well things got more interesting today.

    The remains of a former resident?(in the base of the machine near the terminals on the first page) It may explain some of the wiring.

    First found a 240V socket. shame it has no earth! At some stage the A and N to the socket were cut(90 degree elbow)

    Part of a pin that has mysteriously appeared on the table. The seller said there is a pin(which he had lost) to lock the grinding spindle to the eccentric spindle for clocking the work...... maybe I found the pin...... or at least part of it.

    Started working on the wire schematic, got maybe 5% done and came across this, 26 and 27 dont look so good either. Could have more work to do here than I thought. So I gave up on that for the day.

    Drilled out the grab screw on the other knob which let me remove the knob. Then I went at it with a LPG torch and cooling spray on it to get what was left to move, then finally got it out. A win! lol

    Got the cover off and opened up the fine adjustment know, bearings don't look(or feel) so good. Now I could spend some time and effort trying to clean them up but I figure replacing them would be easier. I know little about bearings I assume they was pretty standard. They are (about) 27.95OD 9.95ID, stamped with N, M and either 9/16 or 9/10..... those numbers mean anything to anyone? I figure I'll get sealed bearings if I can.......... or is that a bad idea? Cleaned up the dials and made a new crystal(are they still called crystals?). I need to glue/seal the polycarb into the Aluminium housing, what would one use for that?

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    CSI Hauser? Have you organized a dna sample to identify the victim?


    You might well need that circuit diagram to re-wire parts of the machine, the insulation looks a bit crumbly?


    I need to glue/seal the polycarb into the Aluminium housing, what would one use for that?
    I remembered getting some info on glueing lexan for a project once... http://www.eplastics.com/Lexan_Polycarbonate_Glue

    If it's a pretty good fit, maybe hotmelt glue or silicon?


    Ray

Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. second hand Henri Hauser mill advice
    By Briangoldcoast in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 20th Aug 2013, 08:42 AM
  2. Hauser Jig Borers and Grinders
    By Anorak Bob in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 16th Jan 2012, 12:06 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •