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  1. #31
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    That would be PD048 set to 13..... interesting that it is a NO, since the 04 option is for a NC switch.... MMMMM
    I really wonder if you can set different values for deceleration for an E-Stop? Can't find anything about it yet.
    Anyone else?
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  2. #32
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Yes 048 is 13. When I hit the estop I get a coasting stop not a ramped stop.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    .. interesting that it is a NO, since the 04 option is for a NC switch.
    Yeah.......you have to wonder what they were thinking went they use NO for E/stop. The Teco is the same though. The Teco manual says it disregards coasting stop(F-14) and uses braking.

    F_19, F_20 =3: External emergency stop
    When the external emergency stop signal is activated, the inverter proceeds to decelerate and
    stop, (ignoring the setting of F_14). The inverters E.S. light will flash after stopping. After the
    emergency stop signal is deactivated, turn the RUN switch OFF and then ON again to cycle it.
    (F_10 =1) Or, push the RUN key (F_10=0). The inverter will then resume operation and restart. If
    the emergency stop signal is removed before the inverter stops, the inverter will still execute the
    emergency stop.

    Of course that dont mean much on the HuanYang


    Stuart

  4. #34
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    Letting it coast in an 'emergency' when a normal stop is set to decelerate seems somewhat counterintuitive to me.
    I've been reading the manual to see if I can find something but alas, nothing useful.
    I'll have to re-read the thread about braking resistor installation -and recognizing when their circuit is missing - to see if I can learn some more there.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Mark: thanks for your comments.
    No, I've had the tacho for a while. It was first brought to my attention by SimonL's posts actually. The one Uee mentioned may be a better choice now (with matching sensor).
    I'm interested in your experience with the braking resistor. My machines seem to run fairly freely and setting the deceleration time to anything sensible always results in an overvoltage error. Probably because I use bigger motors than the VFDs are rated for to get more torque at low rpm.... Don't need anything like the full power of the motors at normal speed.
    There was a discussion here a while back that concluded that not all Huanyang VFDs have the internal wiring for braking resistors. Have you checked yours?
    Thanks for your advice Joe, I've since read the posts, and now have a clue why the hoped for deceleration isn't happening! I'll let you know if I make any progress on this one. All the best, Mark

  6. #36
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    Default NEW external panel configuration and wiring option!

    Here we are again - found a new solution

    With the help of Stuart (Stustoys) and inspiration from BobL and others here, and a lot of time testing, this is what I found possible:

    Please read the notes below the picture too.

    With the right parameter settings, the Huanyang VFDs can be fitted with normally open (momentary) buttons to run forward, run in reverse, jog forward and jog in reverse. A normally closed momentary stop button can be used to stop the for/rev run commands and one - or more - normally closed latching emergency swiches can be fitted - and all these functions can have separate and independent acceleration and deceleration or ramp times assigned!

    If the braking components are retro-fitted as described in this thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...09#post1775209 and an external braking resistor is then fitted, the emergency stop deceleration time can be set very short (0.1sec is the shortest possible), along with final DC braking to make the motor stop as quickly as possible.

    All without ANY relays and only light gauge control wiring, requiring just 910 wires.
    Any 10-core or more cables are suitable along with a 19-pin plug and socket. For mechanical and coolant protection I've routed mine in sealed flexible metal conduit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140748766334.

    Here is the final wiring diagram and setup parameters:
    VFD Remote Control Circuit final.jpg
    While working this out, I found that there are two different user manuals for these VFDs with conflicting information
    One has the emergency stop option for parameters 44 to 49 labled as option 09, the other as option 13! There are other differences as well, that will be the subject of another post in the http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=96380 thread later.
    The information given here relates to the version with option 13 for the emergency stop!

    Infuriatingly, I also found that the two identical 3kW inverters I have tested this setup on have different assignments of the parameters for the multifuntion terminals
    The parameters for SPM (D5) and SPL (D6) are swapped!!!! That is Pd048 referers to D5 on one and D6 on the other and Pd049 vice versa... No idea yet how that can be, but I triple checked.... I found it by accident while pulling my hair out wondering why the lathe motor would run at 10Hz with nothing switched on.... until I twigged that it was running backwards! (jog reverse at 10Hz was specified for D5 in Pd048, see....)

    The moral of the story is: expect the unexpected and check the setup and the wiring methodically. Once set up and connected right, all should be well.
    No responsibilities taken, of course!

    I intend to design a little printed circuit board for this setup and will consider a small commercial production of properly screen printed and finished boards - if anyone is interested. I intend to have spacings for a couple of sizes of easily available switches which can be mounted and soldered directly to the boards and used as membrane switches under a printed and laminated cover which can make the enclosure dust, oil and coolant-proof. That would make a very clean and small remote control panel. More on that later.
    Alternatively this would be an easy way to connect separate larger machine push button switches, along with the contol cable connections.

    It will be a little while before I can get to that design, so if anyone else with PCB design skills wants to have a go - feel free!
    Last edited by jhovel; 9th Jun 2014 at 05:39 PM. Reason: Can't count wires.... deleted mis-information and amended picture
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #37
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    Nicely done Joe.

    The attachment with the circuit diagram doesn't open?

    If you want, I can do that pcb for you.

    Ray

  8. #38
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    Fixed Ray. I'd love you to do the PCB!
    Asking you to was a secret option, but I'm way beyond left over favours!
    I'll talk to you about a couple of layout options I have in mind that would be pretty adaptable. Maybe in person sometime soon...
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  9. #39
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    Hi Joe,
    Firstly good work
    I think as.drawn you can only have one starting ramp. You'd need another switch thave two(though I've been wrong before).
    I found the D5 and D6 swapped in my manual. well the names were swapped but only in the short table. In the main part of the manual they are correct.

    Stuart.

    The link to the circuit diagram doesnt work for me, though the thumbnail does

  10. #40
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    Thanks Joe. I don't have a need at this point for this sort of control panel, but I have not yet got to that point in my thinking, regarding future projects.

    I noticed variations between my instructions, which were correct, and others.

    Dean

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Joe,
    Firstly good work
    I think as.drawn you can only have one starting ramp. You'd need another switch thave two(though I've been wrong before).
    I found the D5 and D6 swapped in my manual. well the names were swapped but only in the short table. In the main part of the manual they are correct.

    Stuart.

    The link to the circuit diagram doesnt work for me, though the thumbnail does
    Correct WRT the starting ramp - they are set to be identical. Pd014=Pd016. The key is to have 2 stopping ramps.
    My manual has them opposite in the two reference pages too. The short table is correct for one of my VFDs, the long table for the other....
    The circuit link should work now.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Corect WRT the staring ramp - they are set to be identical. Pd014=Pd016. The key is to have 2 stopping ramps.
    Yeah, I was just referring to this "and all these functions can have separate and independent acceleration and deceleration or ramp times assigned!"

    I was thinking a second ramp could be handy to someone with a larger or high speed lathe, one ramp for high speed and one for low. But we can let them sort that out lol

    You have two PD002's

    If only these things had 32 terminals would make life much easier lol.

    Stuart

  13. #43
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    You are right Stuart - that option hadn't even ocurred to me. Good idea and would only need an additional switch - but that should probably be a momntary NC switch that you hold while starting in high gear, to ensure the short deceleration time is restored immediately for an emergency. I.e. you would want to hold two buttons to start a 'run' in high gear... just thinking aloud, not a seriously considered opinion....

    I now think I might go with an old D9 serial plug and socket for my panel connection (along with some 14core cable I happen to have). Since I miscounted the wired required, my shielded Cat6 cable doesn;t cut it any more.... Even then, I'll need to make sue of the shielding D-shaped ring connection of the connectors.... Anyone know of an easily accessible/common 10 pin plug and socket option?
    Perhaps one of these? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331211802957
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  14. #44
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    Joe

    If your using 14 core data cable, use DB15's. You can use the spare wires to control extra's later.

    JohnQ

  15. #45
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    John, I took your advice and used a DB15 for the lathe panel. I finished wiring it tonight and will see if I can find the time to mount it and try it out tomorrow.
    This control panel is a bit different. It contains all the electronics for my ELS (Electronic Lead Screw). This lathe started life as a double headstock conrod borer. It has no mechanical connection between the leadscrew and the spindle. So I built an ELS which controls the leadscrew with a stepper motor - as well as the cross-feed screw.
    The VFD control is just a small part of it. All the tactile push button switches are covered by the printed 'membrane' and get operated by pushing on the labels.
    This is the machine I'd like to also experiment on with a radius dependent spindle speed - eventually.
    Anyway, here are a few photos of the panel including the makeshift strip board VFD control circuit (pending a proper PCB), visible in the seconmd and third photo with the green shrink sleeve holding the 10 control wires together and the DB15 at the end (not yet fixed in the photo).
    I'll describe the ELS separately when I've got it going, including the moiunting of the stepper motors and its functional details.....
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

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