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  1. #16
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    BJ's got it, but just in case.

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  2. #17
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    WCD's would be my preference

    with the one from Bobl i think the two locking levers(for the sake of a better word...cos i dont know what else to call em) shown with movement arrows in last pic may become permanently distorted and bind ...the rotating nut locking mechanism will always be tightened to a differing torque accelerating the eventual binding?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    BJ's got it, but just in case.

    Ok thanks guys

    I was not sure if the white in your pic was material or a void.

    Crystal clear now.

    Well this looks a very viable proposition to me.

    I thank you all for your input. I will let you know of my progress. As this is a wood lathe I may make up a model from timber first though drilling the 44.5 mm holes nice and true, straight and parallel may be an issue.


    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  4. #19
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    WCD's would be my preference

    with the one from Bobl i think the two locking levers(for the sake of a better word...cos i dont know what else to call em) shown with movement arrows in last pic may become permanently distorted and bind ...the rotating nut locking mechanism will always be tightened to a differing torque accelerating the eventual binding?
    Manufacture tolerance has to be good, but I've had a similar sort of locking mechanism to lock the wheels on my small Alaskan chain saw mill for the last 4 years without a problem.
    The trick with these locking mechanism is they need only a light touch to provide massive clamping on the bars but this reduced amount of force may not be enough to lock the T-slot.

    A simple design with a zero chance of binding is this one.
    Easy to make too - just drill the holes through the metal block and then cut the block in half.
    I just realised the horizontal void doesn't go through the middle of the bars but I think you get the picture.
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Manufacture tolerance has to be good, but I've had a similar sort of locking mechanism to lock the wheels on my small Alaskan chain saw mill for the last 4 years without a problem.
    The trick with these locking mechanism is they need only a light touch to provide massive clamping on the bars but this reduced amount of force may not be enough to lock the T-slot.

    A simple design with a zero chance of binding is this one.
    Easy to make too - just drill the holes through the metal block and then cut the block in half.
    I just realised the horizontal void doesn't go through the middle of the bars but I think you get the picture.
    that looks better

  6. #21
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I think It could be made even simpler.

    Hey have you been looking in my head? It's not really my idea, but it was what I would suggest. The record bar bed lathes used a simplified version of it. Not only is it easy it gives equal clamping on the bed and t slotted part, unlike the wedges which would be tight long before the t slot part would be.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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