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21st Mar 2014, 11:07 AM #16Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Deception Bay / Brisbane
- Posts
- 38
Engine crane for the lathe (600K) and pallet jack for the Mill (1T), don't use them much and a pain to store away but essential when you need to move something on your own.
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21st Mar 2014, 11:19 AM #17Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Laidley, SE Qld
- Posts
- 1,038
A frame for unloading the ute or truck, pallet jack to move stuff around.
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21st Mar 2014, 11:29 AM #18
Given the amount of money I paid for my lathe and the fact that I had to move it on my own with no-one to call on if it all turned sour I took the easy way out and hired a gantry from Kennards Lift & Shift (not the normal Kennards). To me it's cheap insurance and it keeps me safe and she who must be obeyed happy.
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21st Mar 2014, 11:39 AM #19Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 58
- Posts
- 2,607
Those look pretty cool: http://www.liftandshift.com.au/index...oduct=GANTRIES
Which one did you get Gavin and how much was it? (No pricing on the web site.) Seems like a smart option.
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21st Mar 2014, 11:43 AM #20
Being in the building trade all my life unloading/loading all kinds on heavy/bulky/delicate things on all kinds of apparatus, when it comes to doing the same at home I have set up an RSJ about 9metres long in the apex of the shed frames. I used 100mm RSJ to build the frames for the shed while the lifting beam is 175mm. I used some old bearings as rollers to carry a 1˝ton chain block, which means I can bring the trailer into the shed, roll the chain block over the load, attach appropriate slings, lift the load and pull it away from the trailer or drive the trailer out from the load. If the load is around the ton mark I put an Acrow prop at the end of the trailer under the the lifting beam just for insurance that the shed will stay up. Anything weighing around ˝ton I just lift with the chain block and push the load around unencumbered.
Once the object is on the concrete floor I use a pinch bar to put short lengths of pipe or rod under then move it to where I am going. The Panel Saw in the photos has a "hollow foot print" so I put it onto a piece of 17mm ply with the pipe/rods between it and the floor and moved it that way. If the object is still hard to push I put a sling around its girth and use a hand winch to pull it along while swapping around the pipe/rods. For final fine placing I use a pinch bar or crow bar. 99% of the time I do it on my own. NEVER get the wife unless I absolutely need a hand. (Everytime I do use her she lectures me about how women are not meant to do Heavy work.......)
In the other 2 photos you can see my new toy for the trailer. It was just a usual ute crane set up minus the ram. A mate had that big ram (45mm) so I lengthened the RHS stem to suit. I also used a piece of 50mm X 50mm X5mm RHS to give me more reach. I will have to be wary that I don't over load the 50 X 50 because that ram will easily bend it. I have since added a winch to the shebang to make the whole thing more versitile. The RHS can be slid in or out to cater for what ever I am retrieving. I will add that the trailer is 300 X 1500 and tandemJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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21st Mar 2014, 11:51 AM #21
I wonder how much these little portable ones cost and where you could buy one??
http://www.liftandshift.com.au/index...u=&type=&lvl=1…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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21st Mar 2014, 11:51 AM #22
My recollection is that it was this one http://www.liftandshift.com.au/index...GANTRIES&lvl=1 because the lathe was under a ton and I needed the casters. You can adjust the spacing of the legs to suit the load size and reduce the effective beam length.
I can't remember the cost and it would have changed in the last couple of years.
I'm hoping to get a Stronghand welding table at some stage this year (another holiday trip to Victoria) so I'll use the same gantry to unload that as well.
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21st Mar 2014, 10:12 PM #23
Material handling
Hi DSEL74,
I have a 1500kG crane beam down the centre of the shed. The engineer who designed it told me it had a WLL of 1500KG with a 1.5 safety factor and so would lift 2000 KG if required. I fitted a 2t chain block and when my 1900kG mill arrived had no problems. Moving things off the centreline of the shed remains an issue. I have a reasonable selection of slings as well
I have one rail of a 500kG gantry crane built. It will be used for changing heads and tables on the mill. To round this out I'm considering a pair of 250kG jib cranes mounted on columns either side of the centre section of the workshop. This is all medium to low priority at the moment.
I'd like some machine skates, a pallet jack and a couple of toe jacks, again medium priority.
The other thing I have that helps is a doggers ticket and shortly a riggers ticket.
Cheers
The Beryl BlokeEquipmenter.... Projects I own
Lathes - Sherline 4410 CNC
Mills - Deckel FP2LB, Hardinge TM-UM, Sherline 2000 CNC.
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21st Mar 2014, 10:49 PM #24
Dale it must be nice having your own space again
Even if u have to move heavy equipment around
I remember seeing your last place it was little full
Matt
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21st Mar 2014, 11:49 PM #25
I have a 2T engine crane and a pallet jack. My mill (2.5t) and surface grinder (2.7T) were both put in place with a forklift.
I find that the engine crane is good, but lacks both height and reach at the heavier boom settings.
If i could do it all again i would make a mobile gantry, wide enough to straddle a car trailer for unloading machines, and maybe with telescopic legs for some extra height. It could then be put over the mill, lathe or whatever for loading bigger jobs and D/H, R/T etc.
My engine crane came from Bogart industries on ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engine-Ho...item35cc6b7a6b
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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22nd Mar 2014, 02:23 PM #26
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22nd Mar 2014, 06:37 PM #27
Not long then
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22nd Mar 2014, 07:51 PM #28
Due to my rural location and the fact that I have one workshop which is over 60yrs old and has very uneven strips of concrete for a floor. Up to 100mm variations due to roots underneath. I have used blocks, wooden beams and pipe rollers to roll machinery off my trailer (lathes). Then jacks and levers, to lower to ground level and then pipe rollers to move into and around the shed. I have dirt or lawn (bit of a stretch) at the 2 access doors that can be used for this purpose. An engine hoist or similar would be useless at the moment.
This is how I move most stuff.
Lifting Off Trailer.jpg
I would guess it is capable of at least 1000kg. The shaper swinging on it is 700kg. The connection point at the end of the boom is a sliding extension which is, in this picture fully retracted. It can extend another 600mm or so. I have improved it since this picture was taken (it has been a continually evolving mechanism). My brother suggested triangulating the extension with an adjustable bar. One day I will try to lift heavy weights with it fully extended. It was converted to a trailer form from a ute tray based form in order to be used as a large round hay bale trailer. It currently has a hay bale mounted on it so SWMBO can feed the stock while I am busy at work. You will notice the 2 supervisors watching my work. Ok, one has been momentarily distracted, but nothing escapes her attention.
The upwards bend in the boom is part of the evolution process. Prior to the overhead strut being fitted, I tried to lift a stack of corrugated iron that was too heavy, so I turned it upside down and added the strut. I have also had the mast break off prior to this. This is a new, much bigger and better strutted mast. The cable and chain is part of the hay lifting frame. There are 4 pins next to the mast base to be pressed into the hay bale. 2 each side. The longest one in the center, and the shorter one to prevent the bale rotating. Pull out the shorter one, lower to the ground and drive along to roll it out (if mounted the right way around).
The next improvement is to fit 65mm x 65mm x 3mm rhs as a drawbar to add more strength. The 50mm x 50mm x 3mm rhs does flex a bit and 65mm rhs will slide straight in. The drawbar slides in and out to provide more leverage when lifting and compactness when not in use. It is a pain in the you know what, when I forget to pin the drawbar and I drive off leaving the trailer behind.
Dean
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22nd Mar 2014, 11:57 PM #29
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24th Mar 2014, 09:21 AM #30Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Athelstone, SA 5076
- Posts
- 4,255
I have a lot of mates
if its too hard we go fishing/shooting instead
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