Thread: cylinder hone

Hi, I need to hone a cast iron cylinder 112mm long by 57mm dia. looking around I see there's a long cylinder hone 100mm long and short about 35mm long, so which one will do a better job? the 100mm hone in a 112mm long cylinder or the shorter 35mm hone, I've left about 2 thou. for the honing, I've never done any honing before so any advice is welcome, Leroy.

I assume the stones are 100mm long, that would be the better option...

Well actually the best option to get the best result is to take it to an engine rebuilder and get them to hone it round and true, but I do not know what that would cost.....

I have done a little bit of honing with one of those drill powered ones....

It is a slow process, requiring a fair bit of lubricant like diesel or kerosene. Some stones seem to cut faster then others... With the power drill ones you do not make the stones go out either end any more then 1/3rd total length, otherwise you will bell end the mouth of the bore.. You just keep the stone going in and out as you go round and round, aiming for something like a 60 degree cross hatch pattern...

All depends on how close you need to get to size and how round and cylindrical you need to get it...

I know nearly zero about honing or lapping, but why use one over the other? Why not hone your T/S bore on the 10EE rather than lap it RC?

Ew

If you havent done any honing before you need to be very careful.
You need a very slow drill to get good results. Lots of kero and be very careful that you dont go too far down the bore and hit crankcase webbing at the lower end. Doesnt do the hone any good.

It would be better to get someone that knows what they are doing and watch what they do.

Roger

I have done very little but what I have done has turned out ok.
As said, slow is the go and plenty of lubricant and where possible I use the drill press.
I would also use the 100mm for a more uniform bore.

Phil

i had a tractor a few years ago that we had to redo bores after using straight sided stones we finished up using a" flexi hone " worked much better than the conventional straight sided hones
google flexi hone for examples
john

A Flex-hone is more for de-glazing an already honed to size bore in good condition and would not be suitable to remove .002" while maintaining parallelism and roundness in the bore. A Sunnen hone or similar would be ideal, either hand held or machine mounted.

Lex.

Thanks for all the input from everyone, I'm pretty sure there's no taper in the barrel and since I'm making the piston to fit I'll go with the long cylinder hone as per supercheap, mounted in a hand held drill just to get the crosshatch finish that's recommended, below is the cylinder in question, Leroy

your right techo1 now i remebr