Thread: Reams and floating chucks

Well I finally picked up a set of adjustable reams.
Sutton from 3/8" to 1 1/16"... they do metric as well
They look to be in pretty good nick to me.

Anyway I was looking at this chuck awhile ago and thought I might add it to the list of things to make.

http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/info_HK_2210.html

But the way I'm looking at it, it cant do as they say.
It can adjust for misalignment in one plane and angle in one plane(and the plane at 90' but not as well). But I cant see how it can adjust for misalignment in the other plane. What am I missing? Anyone?

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

I can see the floating head allows for movement in two axes.. I'd guess it's for tailstock use.

HK2210GA_part.jpg

That would align left-right up-down, but not if it rotates?

Ray

PS... Very handy collection of reamers..

Its finally dawned on me.
I thought ball 6 was locating part 4 with part 7 being a cup. Part 7 is flat so doesnt locate part 4........so part 4 is free to pivot in two planes(I still think one better than the other) and slide in one plane. To easy

Stuart

P.s. Yes alignment of offset in two axis and angle in two axis.
The link to the rest(I thought you could use the back button but it seems not)

http://www.hemingwaykits.com/cgi-bin...210#aHK_202210

Originally Posted by Stustoys

P.s. Yes alignment of offset in two axis and angle in two axis.

Would that work with the reamer spinning? or is it tailstock only?

Ray

I'd only been thinking about it in a tailstock. I'm going to need to think some more.
First thoughts are while miss-alignment is less likely to be an issue if the reamer is turning, it could be. I think it would work. but not as well as it would need to pivot and slide for each rotation.....buts its still got to be better then being fixed......I think

Stuart

The two slots with pins at 90 degrees to each other mean that the holder can move translationally in two axis; the slight angular form means that it can cope with some angular misalignment.
However the reamers you bought are hand reamers with a square shank on the end. The Hemingway device is a floating holder for machine reamers with a Morse taper. Not sure how well that would work together.
I have a set of reamers like that set myself and one thing I would suggest is getting a set of reamer pilots to match as it makes getting a square, chatter free and non bell-mouthed hole a lot easier.

P1020155 (Medium).JPG
(ignore the box as that is HM)

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

The two slots with pins at 90 degrees to each other mean that the holder can move translationally in two axis;

Yes

Originally Posted by Michael G

the slight angular form means that it can cope with some angular misalignment.

"angular form" I'm not seeing one. Am I missing something again?
yes but if you think of the angle as 2 angles at 90deg to each other... one lines up with the pins and is free to move. The other is needs the pins to rock in the slot. Torque would then be on the top of one pin and the bottom of the other.

In the end it likely makes 2/10ths of stuff all difference. Its was really thinking that part 7 was a cup that had me scratching my head.
What has me scratching my head is with the short lead in on machine reamers this chuck must start of out with an angular and translationally misalignment. Then the the reamer straightens itself up.(still better than starting out misaligned and staying that way I guess)

Originally Posted by Michael G

However the reamers you bought are hand reamers with a square shank on the end. The Hemingway device is a floating holder for machine reamers with a Morse taper. Not sure how well that would work together.

As I understood it it was ok to use hand reams in machines but not the other way around (though maybe this doesn't apply to adjustable reamers?). Yes some sort of chuck would be needed.

Originally Posted by Michael G

I have a set of reamers like that set myself and one thing I would suggest is getting a set of reamer pilots to match as it makes getting a square, chatter free and non bell-mouthed hole a lot easier.

Great! something else to buy lol

Reaming isn't something I've had much to do with and I don't see myself using them all that often...... though maybe its like buying a surface grinder
It would be nice if I could just limit myself to reaming holes bored/drilled in the mill with no Z movement.. then most of the alignment issues go away. But I do think its in the lathe that they will get the most use......



Stuart

Hi Michael,

Maybe I'm missing something here, are the pilots only for use with hand reamers? How would you use them with a chucking reamer?

Ray

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Sutton from 3/8" to 1 1/16"... they do metric as well

what a find..they'll be very handy

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Well I finally picked up a set of adjustable reams.
Sutton from 3/8" to 1 1/16"... they do metric as well
Stuart

They were a nice set at a nice price I had my eye on them, but having purchased a set a few weeks ago, I figured I had better not. Just to confirm it was you that got them I checked the history on Ebay for the buyer. Industrial > Microscope Parts, Accessories -> Dead giveaway!

Originally Posted by RayG

Are the pilots only for use with hand reamers?

Yes - only for hand reamers. The tube is used instead of the bottom nut and then the conical piece locates in the hole being reamed (it is a sliding fit). With a chucking reamer you have the spindle to line things up.

Michael

Originally Posted by Stustoys

"angular form" I'm not seeing one. Am I missing something again?

angle.jpg
The image isn't all that big on my screen so I'm not sure, but this is an angle isn't it?

Originally Posted by Stustoys

As I understood it it was ok to use hand reams in machines but not the other way around (though maybe this doesn't apply to adjustable reamers?). Yes some sort of chuck would be needed.

Not 100% on the answer to that. The two types are different, so trying to use a machine reamer by hand on a job could get frustrating because of the much shorter lead. Most machine reamers I've seen are helical blade. Using a straight blade reamer could be disastrous under power if the blade catches on something.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

then the conical piece locates in the hole being reamed

In case its not clear to others, I did a bit of googling about this after your earlier post as I couldn't work out how to use them. "the cone goes on the other end of the hole." Well of course its obverse now

Originally Posted by variant22

Just to confirm it was you that got them I checked the history on Ebay for the buyer. Industrial > Microscope Parts, Accessories -> Dead giveaway!

Who me? lol

Originally Posted by Michael G

The image isn't all that big on my screen so I'm not sure, but this is an angle isn't it?

The way I'm seeing it(for what thats worth lol) that angle is just for clearance. The thrust and angular misalignment are taken care of by flat part 7 and ball 6.

Originally Posted by Michael G

Not 100% on the answer to that. The two types are different, so trying to use a machine reamer by hand on a job could get frustrating because of the much shorter lead. Most machine reamers I've seen are helical blade. Using a straight blade reamer could be disastrous under power if the blade catches on something.

Yeah I thought it was only the lead length that was different.
I think I might have come up with a "chucking" idea that is much easier to make IF you assume you can get your tailstock offset "close enough".
Using a clamp pretty much the same as a taping handle(as long as it has round handles and this "thing". With the ball locating in the center of the reamer.

If only I could get some shed time to try some of these ideas out lol

Stuart

Are spare blades readily available?

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Reaming isn't something I've had much to do with and I don't see myself using them all that often...... though maybe its like buying a surface grinder
It would be nice if I could just limit myself to reaming holes bored/drilled in the mill with no Z movement.. then most of the alignment issues go away. But I do think its in the lathe that they will get the most use......

I had a pulley to fit to an odd sized shaft and borrowed a hand reamer from work to do the job and it produced such a sweet fit I bought a 6 to 26 mm set from CTC tools and have since used them quite a bit. They produce a very smooth bore and I like the way you can creep very slowly up to the hole size you need. I use them mainly manually although I have used them on the lathe.