Page 7 of 9 FirstFirst ... 23456789 LastLast
Results 91 to 105 of 122
  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    I have finished fixing the brackets for the feed stop shaft.

    Feed Stop Bracket Left.jpgFeed Stop Bracket Right.jpg

    Functionality before beauty. Some paint would not go astray. The left hand cap bolts are stainless. This is what I had on hand. The others are the best I could find at the time. More are on order. If you look closely, the bracket on the right has a crack thru the outer hole, right thru the bore and right along. I don't think this will effect the functionality. Considering this lathe was dropped on these brackets I am not surprised.

    Before positioning the holes where those ridiculous long bolts are, I checked for placement by lining up the release pin with the shaft centre.

    I slid the shaft into position, after the brackets were tightened into place and was pleased that the shaft slid thru the brackets, and turned without resistance.

    This has been a long slow process, but I have got some very handy experience under my belt.

    After milling out the grub screws on the stop blocks, I straightened the holes and drilled them out to 6.8mm to tap at 8mm. The grub screws were mild steel with slots for adjustment. They had reduced ends to fit in the keyway on the shaft. I presume they were also used to lock the blocks in position. The holes were not pointing towards the centre of the bore. This was the start of the slow process. Trying to set the blocks at the right angle to mill out the screws. I straightened the holes. My plan is to make grub screws to suit the depth of each hole, with a reduced end for the keyway engagement and enough sticking out for a lock nut. I will put in another tapped hole for locking to the shaft with normal grub screws and a brass disk. I milled the face of the holes 12mm diam on 2 of the blocks for the locknuts, but the other 2 had the holes near the cammed section and the milling cutter would not look at them. Tough steel. Not hard according to a file, and I managed to mill out to 8mm and drill to 6.8mm without problem. These ones are on quite an angle due to the cam lobe starting there. I have used an angle ginder on one. I will do the other one as well.

    Dean

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Yesterday I turned a brass plug to fit under the grub screw of one of the blocks. I then milled the end so it would fit in the keyway to stop the block from turning on the shaft. Then I fitted it to the shaft to give it a test drive. I am wondering if I should have bothered fixing this. I doubt the repeatability was less than 3mm. Very useful I don't think. I used a 0.0001 dial indicator. Maybe I should have used my thumb rule. At times the edge of the tool post that I used as a reference point, did not reach the indicator tip.

    I guess this would indicate some wear inside the apron like a rounded edge that should be sharp. It is going to have to wait.

    The cap bolts arrived today so at least it does not have those rejects that were all I could find to fit.

    Dean

  3. #93
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Hi Dean,
    I don't think its wear, my dog clutches looked just fine when i pulled the apron apart and i get the same random stop position. Set it as a safety measure and then use your whits and the bed stop. The Holbrook mechanism is completely different, it hits the bed stop which overloads the feed and it disengages, same spot every time. Not sure how it works though.....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Dean,
    I don't think its wear, my dog clutches looked just fine when i pulled the apron apart and i get the same random stop position. Set it as a safety measure and then use your whits and the bed stop. The Holbrook mechanism is completely different, it hits the bed stop which overloads the feed and it disengages, same spot every time. Not sure how it works though.....

    Ew
    The bed stop it shall be. Use my Wits? Why do you think I wanted to fix it in the first place? LOL

    Dean

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Finally some results to report.

    First, I found out some information about my lathe last week. When Fosters bought out Southcorp they had 2 wineries in Coonawarra. The other one was consilidated into our site. The lathe came too. It was purchased by this winery brand new. It has had very little work over the years. This info came from a workmate who was one of the people to use it. The Nuttall also came as the result of winery consolidation, but if it was the better lathe, I hate to think what the other one was like.

    Lathe Slab at Start.jpg

    Right at the start of the day. It looked like a daunting task at this point. 0.65 m3 of concrete. 2.4m x 0.9m x 0.3m. The lathe manual called for 400mm depth. I did everything I could to reduce the workload. The mixer was right at the coalface. A bit of tin guided the concrete into the hole.

    Lathe Slab Transport of Materials.jpg

    Delivering the materials to the worksite. Measured out in buckets. 1/2 bucket cement, 1 bucket sand and 1 1/2 bucket of gravel makes a nice mixer load. I reversed the trailer right up to the hole. I am standing next to the trailer in the last picture. Reversing required me to pass the trailer a couple of inches from the Y axis handle of the shaper and park right next to the lathe. Everything was covered in cloths.

    Lathe Slab Finished.jpg

    Finished at last. A big day and my back tells me I have done a big job. My left arm is covered in bruises from lifting the buckets. I have to add thanks for SWMBO who helped a great deal with filling buckets and moral support.

    I have also managed to bore out the centre hole of the 44 tooth powerfeed/threading gear that MichaelG made for me. The bore turned out to be a nice fit. Now I need to drill a hole for the 4mm drive pin to be pressed in. I have not decided yet how to make the pin to a size to press in. Probably have a play and see what works for me. A 4mm drill bit shank would probably work. I could turn a pin to suit the hole in the gear (press fit) from silver steel and harden/temper it, but the gear does not have enough bore clearance to make the hole any bigger than 4mm. The existing 22 tooth gear was very tight to remove. I had to lever it off with limited access. I have cleaned it up a bit so it is easier to remove. Part of this included cleaning up the distortion caused by pressing the pin into it when it was made. No photos at this stage. I made a set of ali soft jaws to hold the gear while boring it. I had to finish turning without the powerfeed, as I needed the gear hub to check the fit.

    28 Tooth Gear Threading.jpg

    This is the original gear. It fits the other way around with the pin locating in the hole visible in the hub behind it. The hub is driven by a key on the shaft. Normally it comes out with the gear, which I then have to drive off the hub with a brass drift. I am hoping that with a slightly freer fit the hub will stay in place. This gear drives another one which slides in the slot visible in the bottom right corner of the picture.

    Dean
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    I have finished the 44 tooth gear. Drilled it using the hub to start the hole with a 4mm bit. The hole was drilled with a 5/32 (3.97mm) bit but the 4mm pin was still a slide fit. I did look up the price of a 4mm reamer on EBay, but as I could not find a 4mm hardened pin as well, I decided not to bother. I used loctite to hold the pin in the gear. This morning the pin was tight and the gear fitted on the hub perfectly. Press on with the fingers, but no detectable movement. I'm stoked.

    44 Tooth Feed Gear in Chuck.jpg44 Tooth Feed Gear and Hub.jpg44 Tooth Feed Gear in Situ.jpg

    Holding the gear in soft jaws for boring to size. These jaws were made from a thick auiminium rim which is why some of the radius is still visible.

    The gearfitted to the hub.

    The gear in position in the train.

    Many thanks for cutting the gear Michael G.

    Dean

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Plenty of 4 mm dowel pins available.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Plenty of 4 mm dowel pins available.
    I am sure there are. I could not find any when I was looking. I decided this was most likely due to not knowing the right name to type in. Probably would have been overkill anyway. It was certainly a lot of messing around for one tiny pin.The 4mm diam SS rod I used will do the job.

    Dean

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    I have not yet done any threading on a metric lathe. I was doing some research this morning to understand the issue with having to have multiple gears for the thread chasing dial. My CY lathe only came with one gear, which from memory is a 14 tooth. Not really useful. When I discussed this originally a suggestion was made to ignore the dial as it was still too complicated on a metric lathe. Now I understand why.

    A couple of days ago I watched a video by Oxtool's regarding in this instance threading metric on an imperial lathe. The method suggested to him by a subsciber is as follows

    Engage the leadscrew at a point on the dial to start the cut.
    Thread to the length required.
    Disengage the leadscrew.
    As quickly as possible turn off the spindle.
    Retract the tool.
    Reverse the lathe.
    Engage the leadscrew at the same position on the dial as it was disengaged.
    Continue reversing to the start of the thread. The leadscrew stays engaged at this end.
    Stop the spindle.
    Set new cutting depth.
    Start the spindle in Forward.

    Back to point No. 2. (Thread to the length required.)
    Rinse and repeat.

    This method requires that the leadscrew is engaged on return at exactly the same position as it was disengaged so you are dropping it momentarily and then picking it back up again. It is best if the dial does not turn a full turn so you don't have to count rotations.

    Many of the members will be aware of this method, but I have not seen it mentioned, from memory and I thought it may be useful to some.

    The video by Oxtool's is titled "Metric Threading with an Inch Leadscrew"

    This method is also useful for Metric threading with a Metric Leadscrew. It is probably the method I will be using. I also intend to try threading away from the chuck as this involves less stress and risk. I already have a rear toolpost thanks to Michael G. There are a number of people out there who appreciate Michael's generosity. I think I can hear him saying "Shutup".

    Cheers Dean

    Edit. The gear on the thread chasing dial has 16 teeth. A bit more useful.

  10. #100
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Hi Dean,
    I saw that video a few months ago and i think i linked here after one of the many "never ever disengage your leadscrew" comments.

    I am yet to try it myself but it sure looks like it will work very nicely once you get the rhythm down pat.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Dean,
    I saw that video a few months ago and i think i linked here after one of the many "never ever disengage your leadscrew" comments.

    I am yet to try it myself but it sure looks like it will work very nicely once you get the rhythm down pat.

    Ew
    That is why I said "from memory".

    I would like to try it myself, but I don't have any threading tooling yet unless you count the cheapo one from the chinese set and the one remaining insert for it. Would be worth a try I guess.

    I could always grind one in HSS, but I am currently working on a cheap wood lathe based disk sander. I need to finish a rest for general work, which I need to dress both of my chainsaw's bars. I then want to make a rest to be used for the drill sharpener that has been discussed and then one for finishing HSS tooling which will have adjustable angles for precision.

    I have not had a lot of time in the shed lately due to a number of reasons. One of these is that I have started cutting up/splitting the 30 - 40 tonnes of tree trunks lying in one of my paddocks. I am only having shed time now because I am resting my right arm as it was getting stressd from throwing biggish rings out where I can get to them for splitting. I am too old for that.

    Cheers Dean

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Dean,

    Now while I'm not one to be in a hurry when machining, I do find full reverse painful(not to be confused with "I dont do it")

    Do you have the thread chaser chart? you are aware many pitches will be "drop any anywhere"?
    If I'm right (though a thread about leadscrews a couple of days back did my head in so I wouldn't bet on it ) with only the 16 tooth and "drop an anywhere", you'll be able to do M threads from M2 to M30 except 2.5, 4, 8, 12, 20 and 22. And M fine from M4 up, except 10*1.25, 12*1.25 and 14*1.25 (two of which dont show up on all my thread charts anyway)

    Stuart

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Dean,

    Now while I'm not one to be in a hurry when machining, I do find full reverse painful(not to be confused with "I dont do it")

    Do you have the thread chaser chart? you are aware many pitches will be "drop any anywhere"?
    If I'm right (though a thread about leadscrews a couple of days back did my head in so I wouldn't bet on it ) with only the 16 tooth and "drop an anywhere", you'll be able to do M threads from M2 to M30 except 2.5, 4, 8, 12, 20 and 22. And M fine from M4 up, except 10*1.25, 12*1.25 and 14*1.25 (two of which dont show up on all my thread charts anyway)

    Stuart
    As I have a vsd the reverse will not be too painful, but I understand your point.

    Thanks for that reminder Stuart. I do recall reading that. I don't have a thread chaser chart. I guess It would be worth making one up to position somewhere easily visible.

    Dean

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Just a quick post to say that I finished concreting at each end of the lathe slab today. I am hoping to move the lathe into position soon.

    Dean

  15. #105
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Just a quick post to say that I finished concreting at each end of the lathe slab today. I am hoping to move the lathe into position soon.

    Dean
    Is that when you find out, it's in the wrong place, as you can't get access to the shaper BTDT
    Kryn

Page 7 of 9 FirstFirst ... 23456789 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •