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18th Dec 2013, 01:35 PM #16Most Valued Member
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- sydney ( st marys )
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Just try before adjusting the guides and cams on the bearings,bringing the supports in .
They appear to be set out for extreme travel.
How square was the cut?
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18th Dec 2013, 02:09 PM #17Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
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- SA
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This blade looks pretty crook. Has teeth missing in places.
It is cutting on an angle vertically - pulling away from the bed, which sort of suggests the blade. Probably same effect as a chainsaw.
I have a local saw works that is good on band saw blade prices. Might try them, or is Ebay a better bet?
Bimetal seems the go, but what teeth count is best for general use ? This blade looks pretty fine - the guy only used it to cut brass supposedly.
Actually, when I bought the BS I also got a 10 kg length of 65 x 365 mm solid brass round stock for $5. What would that cost in the shop ?
This guy also had a Hercus A260 with QCGB and was one of the last ones sold before they stopped production, in really really excellent condition, with a lot of centres etc for $1200 negotiable (sic). Apparently they had about 300 phone calls on it. Some guy at Meadows bought it. Absolute bargain, but it went off before I spotted the ad on Gumtree. They got a virtually as new lathe.
Getting damn hot in the shed now, so I will pack it in for now. We are in for a 40 + scorcher this week.
Time for a beer.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 02:38 PM #18Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2012
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- SA
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I just checked the vertical blade travel with the side of a square, and it's OK.
So it looks like the blade is stuffed.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 03:40 PM #19
Hi Rob
I use the hare and forbes starret blades as they are cheap enough at 11 dollars each to have a few different pitches around.
It used to be buy 10 and get one free but its been a while since I bought some.Using Tapatalk
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18th Dec 2013, 03:51 PM #20Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2012
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- SA
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- 1,649
Thanks Dave, and welcome back.
I braved the heat again and it looks like the tracking is also out - the drive pulley blade is only half on, so I need to read the manual and see what's what.
Actually I got it wrong, the blade is pulling in, not out. But this is all fixable and it's early days.
But it certainly works well. When I change the blade I will see if the non driven pulley has a sealed bearing, for Grahame. Bit hard to tell without undoing the bolt.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 04:00 PM #21
Back off the bearings that run on the back of the blade and use the top/front wheel tilt to get it running on the wheels.
A new blade will take most of the headache away and once set up initially they need very little adjustment after that.
My first old blade had me going crazy being new to them as well.
The online grizzy manual is pretty good from what I have seen, wish it was around 15-20 year ago
DaveUsing Tapatalk
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18th Dec 2013, 04:50 PM #22Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2012
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I just had a look and those Starrett blades are cheap enough. I recon I paid $25 for my wood bandsaw blade locally at the saw works, so that is a good price.
We don't have H&F in SA, we have General Tools which is an affiliate, and they generally charge a bit more.
I will ring and see what they have going.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 05:05 PM #23
Yes they are cheap but I prefer to use the bimetal blades. I pay about $30 each for those but they last much, much longer and they cut a whole quicker. Can't remember the last time I replaced the blade on my 4 x 6 and I cut a lot of 304 SS bar up to 1".
4x6 Bandsaw Mods
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18th Dec 2013, 05:10 PM #24Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2012
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- SA
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The worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 05:36 PM #25Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2012
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- SA
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The local saw works where I get my wood bandsaw blades made up does bi metal for $35 so I will get them there.
Saves driving to the other side of town, and his stuff is very good quality.
So I will get a couple in the morning.
Also looks looks like the idler pulley has a ball race Grahame - looks nothing like your unit.
Cheers
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 07:07 PM #26
With the H&F blades I run coolant on them which makes them last much longer, dry you may not get as long out of them.
From what I have heard of general they put on a bit on top of the H&F prices so probably not worth buying at there prices.
DaveUsing Tapatalk
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18th Dec 2013, 07:16 PM #27Golden Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- adelaide
- Posts
- 597
id say a bit more than " a bit on the top" quote fore my spindle for bandsaw was 50 dollars more
same part number go figure
john
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18th Dec 2013, 08:06 PM #28
A year ago I bought a Table Saw from General Tools for the same price as H&F plus freight cos it had to be shipped from Sydney. He said they charge freight on large stuff. I also bought a 150mm milling vice identical to Vertex with an angle base for cheaper than H&F had at the time. He also opened up on Saturday morning when they did not normally open, to load the saw and because it was threatening to rain covered both the saw and the mill I had got from Paramount Browns just before with plastic sheet and heaps of tape. (Michael saw it all wrapped up!) Go figure.
At the time I believe they charged the same price for stock items but added freight for items ordered specially. Same as most places I would think. I don't know if this has changed since.
Dean
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18th Dec 2013, 08:07 PM #29Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2012
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- SA
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The worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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18th Dec 2013, 08:54 PM #30Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Wimmera
- Posts
- 96
As I mentioned in an earlier post. Try McDiven Saws P/L specializes in all types of bandsaws
They will post.
They only make Band Saw blades.
John
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