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  1. #16
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I spent some time this arvo ringing around asking about bricks. Seems I can get plenty to line my wood fire or make a pizza oven......the name isolite just confused them.

    I was also just looking at kilns on eBay, there are a few about but the sizes are really all wrong for what we do.

    I'm thinking I might make a small one first that can become a tempering oven, just so I can het my head around the design. Also to see if the blanket in really needed or not, I like the sound of putting the bricks in an oversized box and filling the voids with vermiculite.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  2. #17
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    . . . . . . .You need to run the furnace outside for the first time while you burn out the organic binders in the ceramic board, it smokes a bit and eventually the colour changes to a white-ish colour. You should check the MSDS sheets, loose fibres from some of this stuff can be nasty.
    The loose fibres can be bound to the board using liquid rigidizer. This is a colloidal silica suspension sprayed on and dried that when fired sticks the loose fibres back to the board. It is quite expensive (~$30/L) but it goes a long way. I used about 500 mL to do my forge and I have plenty left over to undertake follow up repairs.

  3. #18
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    Hi Ewan. Have you seen this for commercially done ideas? Ceramic Kilns, Glass Kilns, Pottery Kilns and Many Other Specialty and Custom Kilns 1
    Gameco in Sydney bring them in; Australian Knifemaking Blacksmithing Materials and Tools | GAMECO
    Corin has valuable advice on materials to use and where to get them.
    IIRC, Field Furnace Refractories in Sydney (Wetherill Park) are the go for us.
    enjoy,
    AndrewOC
    'Waratah' spring hammer by Hands & Scott c.1911- 20, 'Duffy, Todd & Williams' spring hammer c.1920, Premo lathe- 1953, Premo filing machine.

  4. #19
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Thanks Andrew,
    Good to have a supplier with prices online to give me a rough idea of what i'm up for.

    So far this is what i'm looking at, comments appreciated!

    Controller, JLD634 Ramp/Soak PID Temperature Controller for FURNACE KILN OVEN. 64 set timer control
    Thermocouple, Type K Thermocouple Block Ceramic Kiln Probe Sensor 2372°F 11G Cone Temperature | eBay
    Terminal blocks, but not sure whether it would be better to do what Ray did? High Temperature 2 Pole 15Amp Terminal Block Connector X 2 Heat Resistant 550OC | eBay
    Wire, Heat Resistant 2 5mm Fibreglass Wire Cable High Temp Cater Spares 5 Meter | eBay
    Heat shield for wire, Gantry Light High Temp Heat Proof Sleeving 500 DEG PER Meter Black OR White | eBay
    As for Elements i was just going to go for a cheap Kanthal A1 like this, 3000W 31 5" Kanthal A1 Heating Element Coil Heater Wire Nunal | eBay
    I can run the 3kw off a 15A outlet.
    My internal dimensions are looking like 460x190x155 or there abouts. 3kw should be more than enough, if i've calculated it correctly that is. I am wondering though if it would be better to go with 2 1500w elements wired in parallel, one for each side of the kiln? Saves having to cross over the back wall.

    And of course a cheap ebay SSR and heatsink (although i may have something already in my bits box)

    I need some Rope seal too, all the ones i can find only seem to go to 1000degC.

    I think thats about it (except bricks and mortar of course!)

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #20
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Some interesting details here, click on the "construction" tab

    Heat Treat Standard

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #21
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    Hi Ewan,

    List looks ok, you probably don't need the ceramic terminal blocks, since the TC comes with a terminal block already. But you'll need some high temperature crimp terminals to terminate the kanthal elements.

    6mm Heat Proof Resistant High Temperature Eyelet Ring Crimp Terminal Crimp Part | eBay

    Regards
    Ray

  7. #22
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Ray,
    I was thinking of using the terminal blocks for the element, rather than the way you did it with the crimp terminals.
    In the end did you just double up the element where it went through the bricks and out? Halving the resistance should more than halve the temperature of the wire shouldn't it?
    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Ray,
    I was thinking of using the terminal blocks for the element, rather than the way you did it with the crimp terminals.
    In the end did you just double up the element where it went through the bricks and out? Halving the resistance should more than halve the temperature of the wire shouldn't it?
    Cheers,
    Ew
    Hi Ewan,

    Yes, you double up the Kanthal as it goes from the slots inside the furnace, to the terminal strips on the outside, you could put a heat shield and allow for some air circulation around the terminals, check the plating used on the screw terminals used in those ceramic connectors, I found the tin-plated copper ones just vaporized... the nickel plated steel ones are better.

    But the wire you are getting is only rated at 200C so you'll definately want to make sure you can get cooling into the terminal area, so maybe it won't be the problem for you that it was on mine?

    Regards
    Ray

  9. #24
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Ray,
    I figure since the crimp terminal is rated to 500deg and the ceramic terminal block rated to 550deg it should be fine.
    Can you point me in the right direction for the high temp wire you used?
    Cheers
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Ray,
    I figure since the crimp terminal is rated to 500deg and the ceramic terminal block rated to 550deg it should be fine.
    Can you point me in the right direction for the high temp wire you used?
    Cheers
    Ew
    Hi Ewan,

    I used MGT wire from these guys 12 High Temperature MGT Electric Wire Heaters per Foot 1000°F 600V Ovens | eBay

    It's nickel plated copper wires with mica layers and fibreglass braid. MGT High Temperature Wire

    Probably overkill for this application..

    Regards
    Ray

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